Yeah, I could order some Canare 4S6 to try, but I do have some VH Audio OCC copper/Airlok hookup wire, which I may just twist and use.
I also have some Vampire OCC magnet wire, which should be fine at these low voltages..
Finding good quality DC plugs is another matter entirely, and I may end up using those screw-terminal type plugs.
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VH Audio has the Oyaide DC plugs.
Not cheap but at least you don't have to wait forever for them to ship from Asia, and even the eBay sellers want $18 a pop.
Not cheap but at least you don't have to wait forever for them to ship from Asia, and even the eBay sellers want $18 a pop.
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There should be no reason why they wouldn't. Just be sure to set the jumper on the Terra-Berry 2 board properly. I use the TB2 and RPi with two separate PSUs. Sorry I didn't notice your post above. Glad it worked for you.
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That's just too much money for one DC connector. I don't think the well-made Schurter connector will sound any worse than Oyaide and ordered 10 of them for the price of one Oyaide. Digikey lists Schurter as using "copper alloy," which sounds promising..
Attachments
That Schurter plug should be good quality, looks like tin or nickel plated brass. However it also looks like the barrel won't accommodate larger diameter wire like the Canare 4S6 you mentioned, which is one of the advantages of using the Oyaide or Audiophonics plugs, they can accept wire up to 6.3mm in diameter.
Switchcraft DC plugs are also good quality, but like that Schurter plug they use a plastic barrel, one reason why they cost so much less. Oyaide is also available in a right-angle version, which is handy in some circumstances.
Switchcraft DC plugs are also good quality, but like that Schurter plug they use a plastic barrel, one reason why they cost so much less. Oyaide is also available in a right-angle version, which is handy in some circumstances.
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new amp
I am very curious about those figures taken at a few hundred milliwatts up to 1Watt as well. Unless the amp is meant as a P.A. device?
Thanks!
I am attaching the first FFT of the new AMP
Taken at 8R/1Khz 5W *15db gain
No optimization whatsoever .
Please note H2 and H3 and...nothing at all. Also note that at 10W we see the same pattern (slightly increased H2 and H3)
Generally speaking gently decaying harmonics (h2-h5 max) and no harmonic after , is a sign of good sound (but its only one parameter)
I am very curious about those figures taken at a few hundred milliwatts up to 1Watt as well. Unless the amp is meant as a P.A. device?
Thanks!
I am not yet done with the design of the LLC , still waiting for the test data . It should be done shortly though and then I will know
I am plan to release this as both mono and dual channel in a box. LLC is rated at 275W (but usually it can provide more in burst, short period of time)
For 8R I am targeting around 110W , 4R same (in stereo mode) . Monoblocks should 150W on 8R and 240W for 4R at low distortion .
I am plan to release this as both mono and dual channel in a box. LLC is rated at 275W (but usually it can provide more in burst, short period of time)
For 8R I am targeting around 110W , 4R same (in stereo mode) . Monoblocks should 150W on 8R and 240W for 4R at low distortion .
I must say, the Shanti sounds better than I expected compared to previous experiences with various Linear PS in the several hundred dollar range.
I think I even prefer it to the Bakoon Li battery power supply, powering Chord Qutest DAC.
Upon further thought, instead of taking off the stock, thin DC cable and drilling the hold larger, I think I will just solder a better DC cable on the inside and just route it out through one of the pre-existing vent holes in the chassis for easy comparison.
ShantiBakoon by drjlo2, on Flickr
I think I even prefer it to the Bakoon Li battery power supply, powering Chord Qutest DAC.
Upon further thought, instead of taking off the stock, thin DC cable and drilling the hold larger, I think I will just solder a better DC cable on the inside and just route it out through one of the pre-existing vent holes in the chassis for easy comparison.
ShantiBakoon by drjlo2, on FlickrI tried to upgrade the wire, but it is not possible to remove the large PCBA from the housing to get access to the underside, which you will need to do to unsolder the old wire and solder the new.
Yup, I found out the hard way after opening up the Shanti. I'm sure it is possible to remove the board with lots of time and effort, but it is glued on with hot glue (?epoxy) in few places, and lots of parts need to be uncoupled.
I resorted to just cutting off the existing DC cable with about half inch stalk left on the board and solder the upgrade DC cable to that stump.
I used 18 AWG Unicrystal copper wire, and it sounds quite a bit different from the stock wire, which one can compare because the second output is still wired with stock wire.
I resorted to just cutting off the existing DC cable with about half inch stalk left on the board and solder the upgrade DC cable to that stump.
I used 18 AWG Unicrystal copper wire, and it sounds quite a bit different from the stock wire, which one can compare because the second output is still wired with stock wire.
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