Yes 3 OPA2227s will be fine for the Shanling CD-T80.
I tried these myself, along with the expensive OPA627s using Brown Dog converters, and the LM4562s.
In the end after LOTS of listening and swapping back and forth between op-amps I settled on the OPA2132s.
I'll be interested to see how you get on with the OPA2227s - they are a very nice op-amp. Just sounded a little too cold and polite in the Shanling for my liking. The OPA2132 can really boogie!
Cheers,
- John
I tried these myself, along with the expensive OPA627s using Brown Dog converters, and the LM4562s.
In the end after LOTS of listening and swapping back and forth between op-amps I settled on the OPA2132s.
I'll be interested to see how you get on with the OPA2227s - they are a very nice op-amp. Just sounded a little too cold and polite in the Shanling for my liking. The OPA2132 can really boogie!
Cheers,
- John
Well I'd much rather have my Shanling boogie than be cold and polite. I imagine any of these will be a step up from the original 2406's. Given that no two sets of ears are alike. Ditto for our listening conditions / equipment. That given I do prefer a warm sound. So now you have me thinking I may try your boogying 2132's. What I don't understand is the prefix following the first four digits on the order page. There are 2132UA, 2132P, 2132PA and 2132U listed.
It's all so subjective isn't it, and there's so many different variables which affect the final sound.
I use solid state amplification at present (various Tripath-amps, a Gainclone and my fav. Greg Ball's GB150D) so this may explain why I prefer the OPA2132.
I imagine with slightly "warmer" tube amplification the LM4562 or OPA2227 may indeed be a better choice. The beauty is you can tune it for your ears/equipment. Having said that to prevent myself from driving myself nuts by continuously swapping op-amps I removed the op-amp sockets from my Shanling and soldered the OPA2132s directly to the sockets. Sanity is restored ;-)
Whatever op-amp you end of using, the Shanling is a mighty fine player.
Not sure what the different OPA permutations mean, I think some are more accurate versions of the same chip? The explanation may well be on their website somewhere.
Cheers,
- John
I use solid state amplification at present (various Tripath-amps, a Gainclone and my fav. Greg Ball's GB150D) so this may explain why I prefer the OPA2132.
I imagine with slightly "warmer" tube amplification the LM4562 or OPA2227 may indeed be a better choice. The beauty is you can tune it for your ears/equipment. Having said that to prevent myself from driving myself nuts by continuously swapping op-amps I removed the op-amp sockets from my Shanling and soldered the OPA2132s directly to the sockets. Sanity is restored ;-)
Whatever op-amp you end of using, the Shanling is a mighty fine player.
Not sure what the different OPA permutations mean, I think some are more accurate versions of the same chip? The explanation may well be on their website somewhere.
Cheers,
- John
Hallo everyone,
...my first post on this site, it's a pleasure to be here and I'd like to thank everyone in this thread for the inspiration they gave me to fix a problem I had with my Shanling CD-T80. The resolution may be useful for others, so I thought I would share it with you.
About 3 month ago I bought a new CD-T80 from the eBay UK site, shipped directly from Hong Kong. I had my heart in my mouth but it arrived nicely packed and in 1st class condition. Except for audible clicks through the speakers every time I did anything with the buttons or the remote, which was curious but nothing really to worry about, for the first few weeks it performed beautifully - a major improvement on my previous player. I was a very happy bunny.
Then Murphy struck: from time to time it would emit an alarming f*rting sound through the left channel. Very loud and not good for my fragile Quad ESL57 electrostats. I identified the Shanling as the culprit and hastily swapped it for the old player.
Now I had a problem. To return it to Hong Kong was the option of last resort, so I first tried swapping the 6N3 tubes for some military spec GE devices. Great sound for 15 minutes but no joy with the passing of the wind.
Then I hit on this forum and the discussion about the Op Amps. I have now replaced the 3 original chips with JohnM's boogying OPA2132s and peace has been restored - no more clicks either.
The resulting player (GE's tubes and the new Op Amps) is of unsurpassed excellence for the price.
So cheers everyone!
Nick
...my first post on this site, it's a pleasure to be here and I'd like to thank everyone in this thread for the inspiration they gave me to fix a problem I had with my Shanling CD-T80. The resolution may be useful for others, so I thought I would share it with you.
About 3 month ago I bought a new CD-T80 from the eBay UK site, shipped directly from Hong Kong. I had my heart in my mouth but it arrived nicely packed and in 1st class condition. Except for audible clicks through the speakers every time I did anything with the buttons or the remote, which was curious but nothing really to worry about, for the first few weeks it performed beautifully - a major improvement on my previous player. I was a very happy bunny.
Then Murphy struck: from time to time it would emit an alarming f*rting sound through the left channel. Very loud and not good for my fragile Quad ESL57 electrostats. I identified the Shanling as the culprit and hastily swapped it for the old player.
Now I had a problem. To return it to Hong Kong was the option of last resort, so I first tried swapping the 6N3 tubes for some military spec GE devices. Great sound for 15 minutes but no joy with the passing of the wind.
Then I hit on this forum and the discussion about the Op Amps. I have now replaced the 3 original chips with JohnM's boogying OPA2132s and peace has been restored - no more clicks either.
The resulting player (GE's tubes and the new Op Amps) is of unsurpassed excellence for the price.
So cheers everyone!
Nick
Good to hear that you were able to fix your problem by replacing the OPA's! I have a set of 2132's waiting to go in my cd-t80 but right now it has disc reading problem. This is detailed in another thread. It is a great cd player! I recently heard the new Shanling cd3000 and felt that the t80 had a wider and more detailed soundstage. Now if I can only get mine working again. Thanks Nick!!!
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