A wall wart is unlikely to be able to have enough current to start the amp.
Did you monitor the DC voltage across the B+ and ground terminals while the LED was blinking?
Do you have a battery that you can use to power the amp?
Did you monitor the DC voltage across the B+ and ground terminals while the LED was blinking?
Do you have a battery that you can use to power the amp?
I do have a battery in my garage i keep on a maintainer i can try with that tomorrow
I appreciate the help on this project.
I can use a smaller gauge wire for this, correct? I dont have to use the 0 gauge wire for this testing application correct?
I appreciate the help on this project.
I can use a smaller gauge wire for this, correct? I dont have to use the 0 gauge wire for this testing application correct?
For a short run, 12g would likely be OK. 8g, if you have it, use it.
Don't connect without a fuse.
Don't forget to check the inductors first.
Don't connect without a fuse.
Don't forget to check the inductors first.
I hooked it up to my power supply and you were right not enough voltage, i can see the lights attempting to power on. I should have time tomorrow to wire up my spare car battery to try to power it up correctly
Leave the 20 amp fuse inline and make sure the amp plays at a low-level and let it play for a few minutes. If you want to test at higher power than the 20 amp fuse will allow, install the fuse recommended for the amp (or less) to test.
It requires 4 35amp fuses but it had 4 40amp fuses in place, i also am going to get replacement fuses that are sized correctly.
Did the power LED come on and stay on?
The protect LED may come on for a short time on startup (during the initial mute delay). That would be normal.
The protect LED may come on for a short time on startup (during the initial mute delay). That would be normal.
No voltage at the terminals was barely 3-4 v
I thought it was higer when i was testing the other day but i must have been mistaken.
I thought it was higer when i was testing the other day but i must have been mistaken.
Are you referring to the B+ voltage when sourced by the vehicle charging system or when being powered by the battery you tried previous to installing in the vehicle?
No the wall adapter. I have to go pull the inline fuse out of my other vehicle and the battery out of that.
I tried the wall adapter again to check the output filter inductors, but when i hooked it up it was 3-4v at terminals.
I tried the wall adapter again to check the output filter inductors, but when i hooked it up it was 3-4v at terminals.
So...things did not go well.
I powered the amp up off the car battery, 20amp fuse in line.
Thermal light fid not come one, protect light did not come on, i was measuring voltage at the speaker terminals, and as i was setting my leads down i dropped one on the board, it hit a fet, thing burst into flames n bkew the fuse.
Fet 103-112 and now burned to **** reading no ohms.
I powered the amp up off the car battery, 20amp fuse in line.
Thermal light fid not come one, protect light did not come on, i was measuring voltage at the speaker terminals, and as i was setting my leads down i dropped one on the board, it hit a fet, thing burst into flames n bkew the fuse.
Fet 103-112 and now burned to **** reading no ohms.
When i had it powered up before that incident every led on the board lit up solid red. There was .3 at the spaker terminals
Board insint melted or anything. It was quick. Probably need to replace those fets tho before further testing
