Hi all
I've got myself a pretty old CDP (SONY CDP-M18) and would like to upgrade it. Unfortunatelly I could not find the schematics on the web for this model (if anyone knows where to get it, pls lemme know)
The CDP exhibits quite a bit of high pitched noise (i am sure its CDP since when i unplug it, my amp is absolutely silent)
Besides the obvious cap and diodes upgrade I would like to make a separate PSU for the analog stage, for obvious reason to reduce the digital and clock noise.
The PS thats there is a simple linear +7V PS.
I was wondering if someone can help me to find out what voltage is required by opamps (and the DAC too?) and where are the rails feeding that voltage.
Also will i have to make the PS regulated, which would be more problematic than a regular linear one?
The CDP has the following ICs:
SONY d75308 545 (i think it controls the LCD)
SONY CXD2500Q
SONY CXD2554M (there is a crystal hooked up to this one)
5285 (and has a mitsubishi logo before that number)
TDA 1543A
LA5601 (10 pin chip)
0L2
Other suggestions on upgrading the CDP welcome
Thanks
I've got myself a pretty old CDP (SONY CDP-M18) and would like to upgrade it. Unfortunatelly I could not find the schematics on the web for this model (if anyone knows where to get it, pls lemme know)
The CDP exhibits quite a bit of high pitched noise (i am sure its CDP since when i unplug it, my amp is absolutely silent)
Besides the obvious cap and diodes upgrade I would like to make a separate PSU for the analog stage, for obvious reason to reduce the digital and clock noise.
The PS thats there is a simple linear +7V PS.
I was wondering if someone can help me to find out what voltage is required by opamps (and the DAC too?) and where are the rails feeding that voltage.
Also will i have to make the PS regulated, which would be more problematic than a regular linear one?
The CDP has the following ICs:
SONY d75308 545 (i think it controls the LCD)
SONY CXD2500Q
SONY CXD2554M (there is a crystal hooked up to this one)
5285 (and has a mitsubishi logo before that number)
TDA 1543A
LA5601 (10 pin chip)
0L2
Other suggestions on upgrading the CDP welcome
Thanks
Before you do anything I think you should compare your CDP with a brand new in order to determine how good or bad your old Sony really is.
Thanks for suggestion
I had compared it to a very cheap APEX dvd-player and found the dvd a little worse.
I have Hafler dh200 upgraded with Musical Concepts mod (PA3) and AR.com DIY speakers. I use my own stepped atenuator passive volume control.
Thanks
Alex
I had compared it to a very cheap APEX dvd-player and found the dvd a little worse.
I have Hafler dh200 upgraded with Musical Concepts mod (PA3) and AR.com DIY speakers. I use my own stepped atenuator passive volume control.
Thanks
Alex
I noticed that you can get refurbished APEX dvd players in Toronto for about $45CAN. That's about $30US. Is that what you're comparing it to?
Regards,
Dan
Regards,
Dan
the dvd player is my friend's, but knowing him i am pretty sure you are right about the price 😀 😀 
Alex
Alex
If you're looking for a good upgrade/tweaking candidate I've noticed that the Marantz 43/53/63 series is very popular amoung the diy'ers. I just recently bought a good used CD67SE for $250CAN.
Regards,
Dan
Regards,
Dan
good for you 😉
How does it sound? and what u have to compare it to?
Also what other equipment do u have?
Thanks
How does it sound? and what u have to compare it to?
Also what other equipment do u have?
Thanks
I pretty well agree with the following description of its sound,
"I auditioned a number of CD-Players, before buying my CD-67 SE. I felt that of all the CD-Players in question (which shall remain unnamed) it offered the most music for the money. Having lived with the "stock" unit for several month, I'd describe the sound as "save". This is an eminently listenable CD-Player, which does smooth over some of the rough Edges. I found the player however ultimately lacking in resolution and "air-guitar" factor.
The CD-67 SE certainly does the M-thing (musicality) very well, but as Warren G. say's, it's a G-Thang too.
The Cd-67 SE's sound favored acoustic Jazz and classic, but I felt that my tweaked ultra-cheap Philips CD-720 offered more get-up'n-go and certainly did more for me when I played Rock or Dance Music.
At the same time, the typical digital nastiness that is displayed by so many "budget" CD-Players (and some quite expensive ones too), is absent, although there is still a notable exaggeration of sibilants.
Rhythmically a bit slow and with an overly smooth presentation, the Marantz CD-67 SE was often blunting a bit the impact of the music. Also, with classical Music, while the CD-67 SE's smoother presentation stopped the violins from screeching, it did not reveal as much detail as the Philips CD-720.
All in all however, this is a CD-Player that is certainly way better than average and it fully deserves all the (almost) cult following, it has achieved among music lovers worldwide (and even among magazine reviewers). "
You can read all the information available at:
TNT audio's 63/7 tweaks
I have a Marantz receiver, Nordost Flatline cables, and some very revealing DIY ProAC 2.5's.
I really like the initial impressions I had of my 67 and I've already started 'tweaking' it by installing LC audio's AD8065. Next, I have a Kwak clock on the way. After that I plan to keep on going with some power supply mods.
BTW I see another one for sale local to you and I at :
FS: Marantz CD67SE
Regards,
Dan
"I auditioned a number of CD-Players, before buying my CD-67 SE. I felt that of all the CD-Players in question (which shall remain unnamed) it offered the most music for the money. Having lived with the "stock" unit for several month, I'd describe the sound as "save". This is an eminently listenable CD-Player, which does smooth over some of the rough Edges. I found the player however ultimately lacking in resolution and "air-guitar" factor.
The CD-67 SE certainly does the M-thing (musicality) very well, but as Warren G. say's, it's a G-Thang too.
The Cd-67 SE's sound favored acoustic Jazz and classic, but I felt that my tweaked ultra-cheap Philips CD-720 offered more get-up'n-go and certainly did more for me when I played Rock or Dance Music.
At the same time, the typical digital nastiness that is displayed by so many "budget" CD-Players (and some quite expensive ones too), is absent, although there is still a notable exaggeration of sibilants.
Rhythmically a bit slow and with an overly smooth presentation, the Marantz CD-67 SE was often blunting a bit the impact of the music. Also, with classical Music, while the CD-67 SE's smoother presentation stopped the violins from screeching, it did not reveal as much detail as the Philips CD-720.
All in all however, this is a CD-Player that is certainly way better than average and it fully deserves all the (almost) cult following, it has achieved among music lovers worldwide (and even among magazine reviewers). "
You can read all the information available at:
TNT audio's 63/7 tweaks
I have a Marantz receiver, Nordost Flatline cables, and some very revealing DIY ProAC 2.5's.
I really like the initial impressions I had of my 67 and I've already started 'tweaking' it by installing LC audio's AD8065. Next, I have a Kwak clock on the way. After that I plan to keep on going with some power supply mods.
BTW I see another one for sale local to you and I at :
FS: Marantz CD67SE
Regards,
Dan
Thanks for the info!!!
I am still contemplating. I am seriously considering Scott's DACkit - it looks to be very .. er how should i put it... cost efficient, which is of prime concern for me poor student
😉
Alex
I am still contemplating. I am seriously considering Scott's DACkit - it looks to be very .. er how should i put it... cost efficient, which is of prime concern for me poor student
😉
Alex
static said:Thanks for the info!!!
I am still contemplating. I am seriously considering Scott's DACkit - it looks to be very .. er how should i put it... cost efficient, which is of prime concern for me poor student
😉
Alex
cost efficient? Take a look at the DDDAC1543 at www.ddac.de - it probably costs you about $200 max to build if you don't go nuts on the case and components. May just be the ticket - no op-amps but also no tubes. Pure battery power...
my parts are ordered - will build it late this month
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