Anyone know where I can find ganged (2, 4, or 6) gold RCA panel jacks that are mounted on a piece of plastic with two screw holes for mounting on a panel?
The 3/16" thickness of most of the singles doesn't help me much. I am building a GC enclosure out of solid oak. My walls won't be very strong @ < 3/16".
(Like my headphone amp, linked here🙂
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=18922&highlight=
If anyone knows of any deep-mount singles, that'd be cool, too.
In a pinch, I suppose I could make them. But I am not very good at plastic/metal work.
What I am looking for is just like the "dual RCA jack" at the bottom of the link, but with better quality jacks:
http://www.wytekdirect.com/Audio/rca_plugs_and_jacks.htm
Muchas Gracias.
GnD
The 3/16" thickness of most of the singles doesn't help me much. I am building a GC enclosure out of solid oak. My walls won't be very strong @ < 3/16".
(Like my headphone amp, linked here🙂
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=18922&highlight=
If anyone knows of any deep-mount singles, that'd be cool, too.
In a pinch, I suppose I could make them. But I am not very good at plastic/metal work.
What I am looking for is just like the "dual RCA jack" at the bottom of the link, but with better quality jacks:
http://www.wytekdirect.com/Audio/rca_plugs_and_jacks.htm
Muchas Gracias.
GnD
Hello Grahamn;
I've run into the same problem ("short" components with thick wood chassis) and now use 1/8" thick aluminium sheet stock as "mounting plates". Just buy some 2" wide (or 3" wide or whatever) stock and cut off the right length with a conventional saw and mitre box. Then round the corners using a file and drill holes using a punch to establish centre and a conventional power drill (you do need to clamp the piece down to a scrap piece of wood - otherwise it's got a tendency for the drill to "screw it's way through the wood", which makes it hard to control).
Don't know if this is what you're after, but it's just a thought.
Good luck with it!
Ja mata,
Morse
I've run into the same problem ("short" components with thick wood chassis) and now use 1/8" thick aluminium sheet stock as "mounting plates". Just buy some 2" wide (or 3" wide or whatever) stock and cut off the right length with a conventional saw and mitre box. Then round the corners using a file and drill holes using a punch to establish centre and a conventional power drill (you do need to clamp the piece down to a scrap piece of wood - otherwise it's got a tendency for the drill to "screw it's way through the wood", which makes it hard to control).
Don't know if this is what you're after, but it's just a thought.
Good luck with it!
Ja mata,
Morse
Attachments
Thanks, guys!
Both excellent ideas.
Nice tube amp, Morse. What is it? Nice woodwork, too.
And that Neutrik jack is damn-near perfect, Dhaen.
I am gonna case my IGC in oak -- and just found a wonderful pair of Fostex 103-based full-range birch-plywood speakers last night that I now have the hots for.
http://home.hetnet.nl/~geenius/Solo103.html
This guy has about a dozen projects online and does beautiful work.
I love this hobby.
GnD
Both excellent ideas.
Nice tube amp, Morse. What is it? Nice woodwork, too.
And that Neutrik jack is damn-near perfect, Dhaen.
I am gonna case my IGC in oak -- and just found a wonderful pair of Fostex 103-based full-range birch-plywood speakers last night that I now have the hots for.
http://home.hetnet.nl/~geenius/Solo103.html
This guy has about a dozen projects online and does beautiful work.
I love this hobby.
GnD
Maybe this is worth a look?
It's in sweden so the cost might be too high, but i bet you could find something similar in your parts too:
Gold-plated female socket for PCB mounting
BTW:It says gold-plated, but the picture looks more like nickel or something to me... (ELFA has for the most part pretty good stuff, so maybe it's just the photo).
/Andreas
It's in sweden so the cost might be too high, but i bet you could find something similar in your parts too:
Gold-plated female socket for PCB mounting
BTW:It says gold-plated, but the picture looks more like nickel or something to me... (ELFA has for the most part pretty good stuff, so maybe it's just the photo).
/Andreas
Re: Maybe this is worth a look?
They are gold plated, but are not very suited for thick panels...
nuppe said:
They are gold plated, but are not very suited for thick panels...
Hi Grahamn;
>>>...Nice tube amp, Morse. What is it? Nice woodwork, too...<<<
Thank you. That's the Gnat, a 6BM8 miniamp I built a while back. It's got about 3 wpc, and cost a bit over $100 in it's current configuration; the biggest limitation is the poor bass response due to the cheapie output trafos, but I plan a nicer version with better iron. You can see pics of some of my other amps at my site: http://home.earthlink.net/~shidenkai/index.html It doesn't include pics of any of my chip based headphone amps, or the TDA2030A that I (finally) got working about 10 minutes ago. That's playing in the background now on it's breakin trials and Gary Puckett and the Union Gap sound just fine.....
>>>...and just found a wonderful pair of Fostex 103-based full-range birch-plywood speakers last night that I now have the hots for...<<<
Aha! A man of taste....the Fostex's are my current fave drivers - they represent a truly awesome cost/performance ratio.
If you've not heard the FE103E, give it a chance to break in a bit before you judge it. All the Fostex's that I've worked with have needed considerable breakin time - but it's worth it. Expect the midbass to be a little lean at first, but that's normal. And of course you can't expect the deepest bass from a 4" driver...but do expect some really incredible vocals and a sound field with some depth to it.
Good luck on your projects!
All the best,
Morse
>>>...Nice tube amp, Morse. What is it? Nice woodwork, too...<<<
Thank you. That's the Gnat, a 6BM8 miniamp I built a while back. It's got about 3 wpc, and cost a bit over $100 in it's current configuration; the biggest limitation is the poor bass response due to the cheapie output trafos, but I plan a nicer version with better iron. You can see pics of some of my other amps at my site: http://home.earthlink.net/~shidenkai/index.html It doesn't include pics of any of my chip based headphone amps, or the TDA2030A that I (finally) got working about 10 minutes ago. That's playing in the background now on it's breakin trials and Gary Puckett and the Union Gap sound just fine.....
>>>...and just found a wonderful pair of Fostex 103-based full-range birch-plywood speakers last night that I now have the hots for...<<<
Aha! A man of taste....the Fostex's are my current fave drivers - they represent a truly awesome cost/performance ratio.
If you've not heard the FE103E, give it a chance to break in a bit before you judge it. All the Fostex's that I've worked with have needed considerable breakin time - but it's worth it. Expect the midbass to be a little lean at first, but that's normal. And of course you can't expect the deepest bass from a 4" driver...but do expect some really incredible vocals and a sound field with some depth to it.
Good luck on your projects!
All the best,
Morse
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