I am restoring a prob 18 year old custom built 2 way bookshelfs.
Long story short, there was a long screw in the enclosure that pierced the terminal of the tweeter which is a SEAS 27TFF.
See pics: Imgur: The magic of the Internet
The terminal is supposed to be fixed, and the housing is slightly broken. I can't see where the terminal should hit another piece of metal - the housing looks all plastic to me.
Any ideas on how to repair this? seating it back in looks like it would hold actually, but for how long....
Long story short, there was a long screw in the enclosure that pierced the terminal of the tweeter which is a SEAS 27TFF.
See pics: Imgur: The magic of the Internet
The terminal is supposed to be fixed, and the housing is slightly broken. I can't see where the terminal should hit another piece of metal - the housing looks all plastic to me.
Any ideas on how to repair this? seating it back in looks like it would hold actually, but for how long....
From the images.
At the base of the plastic in between the two supports that used to hold the clip you can see a piece of very fine wire greyish in colour. This should be soldered to the terminal.
If you are an expert with a soldering iron and have some flux, ease the wire away from the plastic and try to tin it. You may get it to tin without burning too much plastic. Maybe attach another longer thin wire to it to give you more wire length to work with when you re solder to the terminal.
Alternatively depending on the tweeter design if you undo the three or four front faceplate screws and may have more access to the wire, but you need to consider not letting the dome and voice coil move or fall out of the gap and not breaking the wire at the other terminal. Handle it with the dome facing upwards.
Once repaired you will need to carefully anchor the old tag for another 18 years of service. Unsolder the wire attached and maybe some quick drying epoxy, to re anchor it in place. Let the glue dry and then quickly re solder the connecting wire, so as not to melt the plastic or epoxy glue.
If you are not overly familiar with this, get a friend who understands this to help.
In a worst case scenario you may have to buy a replacement tweeter if you cannot do the repair. Usually seas tweeters have plenty of info and part markings on them so you can look up at their website to see if it is still in production, or ask the question here. People will help.
At the base of the plastic in between the two supports that used to hold the clip you can see a piece of very fine wire greyish in colour. This should be soldered to the terminal.
If you are an expert with a soldering iron and have some flux, ease the wire away from the plastic and try to tin it. You may get it to tin without burning too much plastic. Maybe attach another longer thin wire to it to give you more wire length to work with when you re solder to the terminal.
Alternatively depending on the tweeter design if you undo the three or four front faceplate screws and may have more access to the wire, but you need to consider not letting the dome and voice coil move or fall out of the gap and not breaking the wire at the other terminal. Handle it with the dome facing upwards.
Once repaired you will need to carefully anchor the old tag for another 18 years of service. Unsolder the wire attached and maybe some quick drying epoxy, to re anchor it in place. Let the glue dry and then quickly re solder the connecting wire, so as not to melt the plastic or epoxy glue.
If you are not overly familiar with this, get a friend who understands this to help.
In a worst case scenario you may have to buy a replacement tweeter if you cannot do the repair. Usually seas tweeters have plenty of info and part markings on them so you can look up at their website to see if it is still in production, or ask the question here. People will help.
Off hand I'd say that tweeter is toast.
Along with the difficulty of re-soldering that hair fine wire comes the likelihood that it's aluminium (from the greyish colour) which is going to require special solder and flux to re-attach.
You could try cleaning off the terminal piece that came out. Pulling the wire up towards the magnet, inserting the terminal and remounting it with a couple of drops of Gorilla Glue. Then you would have the wire with hopefully enough length to lay against your remounted terminal piece and the problem is now one of soldering it without disturbing it.
Even then there is no guarantee that would fix it.
CCA is aluminium ... Copper Clad Aluminium and that stuff is next door to impossible to solder properly.
Copper looks gold colour.
CCA also looks gold colour except on the end.
Silver is usually either silvery or white.
Aluminium is usually grey.
I know CCA is copper-clad aluminum, but the copper will solder and I know it's an off-orange color except on the end. None of what you stated is something I didn't know.
TYPICALLY, tinsels are silver or CCA. They are not normally aluminum. I would even wager that the tinsel shown is CCA that has been solder-dipped. That would explain the grey color.
From Seas website:
"Our voice coils are generally made from copper wire with duroplastic coating, allowing coil temperatures of 220-250 degrees centigrade before disintegration. We also have voice coils made with copper clad aluminium wires (CCAW) available."
At any rate- they are not aluminum.
Wolf
TYPICALLY, tinsels are silver or CCA. They are not normally aluminum. I would even wager that the tinsel shown is CCA that has been solder-dipped. That would explain the grey color.
From Seas website:
"Our voice coils are generally made from copper wire with duroplastic coating, allowing coil temperatures of 220-250 degrees centigrade before disintegration. We also have voice coils made with copper clad aluminium wires (CCAW) available."
At any rate- they are not aluminum.
Wolf
The coil wire of a Seas tweeter can be easily soldered. I know because I did that. Pulling out a fast-on from the tweeter terminal, the terminal went out of the plastic housing breaking the thin wire. By chance I found a wire that was the same diameter of the original one, and soldered the two together near the break (under the faceplate). My tweeter is a 27TBFC/G.
Ralf
Ralf
Looking at the picture the left tab looks good.
1. (a or b) glue or epoxy the right tab.
(a or b) Insert the terminal.
(c) Apply a few rounds of thread, tie it off.
(d) Cover the tabs and terminal in glue, silicone or epoxy.
2. Just secure the terminal to the good tab, thread, glue, silicone or epoxy.
Or if you are brave melt the broken tab back on with a soldering iron-plastic welding. The plastic is OLD.
Welding Plastic with a Soldering Iron | Simply Smarter Circuitry Blog
1. (a or b) glue or epoxy the right tab.
(a or b) Insert the terminal.
(c) Apply a few rounds of thread, tie it off.
(d) Cover the tabs and terminal in glue, silicone or epoxy.
2. Just secure the terminal to the good tab, thread, glue, silicone or epoxy.
Or if you are brave melt the broken tab back on with a soldering iron-plastic welding. The plastic is OLD.
Welding Plastic with a Soldering Iron | Simply Smarter Circuitry Blog
Not sure if I am in the right place for this! I have a pair of Acoustic Energy AE1 speakers fitted 25 TAFC/W-AE H 617 tweeters which are open circuit. I have carefully dismantled them but cannot see an obvious break in the wire.
Can you obtain replacement diaphragm/ coil assemblies ? Alternatively can thy be repaired - if so can anyone in the uk help.
Can you obtain replacement diaphragm/ coil assemblies ? Alternatively can thy be repaired - if so can anyone in the uk help.