SEAS Prestige 27TDFNC/GW (H1462) 1" Bought on a recommendation again a surplus Item at madisound , I think I am going to need to reduce the output . is this a well known model ? Solutions ?
As a observation I noticed that typical tweeter outputs are often a fair bit more sensitive that the woofers commonly available, is this by virtue of the nature of the drivers? seems like a better match would be tweeters with a lower output to pair with the lower output that naturally occurs from base canceling?
"Base canceling" - what is that??
99.99% of 2-way speakers need some attenuation for the tweeter.
Have you built a speaker before? Do you have measuring equipment?
Seems to me like you just want someone to design the entire speaker with the drivers you bought. Why not just ask for help with that?
99.99% of 2-way speakers need some attenuation for the tweeter.
Have you built a speaker before? Do you have measuring equipment?
Seems to me like you just want someone to design the entire speaker with the drivers you bought. Why not just ask for help with that?
You could also search the great database of speaker projects in the resources list at Madisound. Maybe your tweeter is already there in a project.
Open baffles produce a slope, not a fixed attenuation. Could you really expect a manufacturer to cater to individual designs?
Found this seems like a novel approach NO capacitor Humble homemade Hifi
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What drivers have you bought or are considering? (please differentiate) for your OB speaker?
Tony's series crossover above is likely for a 2 way in a regular enclosure (sealed / vented / PR). you can't just apply that for an OB midrange (for example) nor woofer.
Tony's series crossover above is likely for a 2 way in a regular enclosure (sealed / vented / PR). you can't just apply that for an OB midrange (for example) nor woofer.
That 7.83 ohm resistor will kill the output of that midbass. There needs to be a cap between R1 and ground to prevent this, likely 15-25uF range.
Yep, I did a cap less xover experiment on the Scandivifias when I did them. Removing the cap I say should be included placed the R1 resistor in parallel with the woofer, and dropped the sensitivity a great deal.
The other issue with that series / parallel network is the 1st order slope. It can be a novel approach to avoiding a cap in the signal path but its not practical at all when trying to get the best performance from the drivers. Every single non linearity in one half of the network and driver will be reflected into the other subtractively speaking.
That seas tweeter is a good one. I've used it before in a large 3 way build. It sounds very open and detailed for a soft dome, closer to a metal dome but has a bit more warmth in the lower mids.
That seas tweeter is a good one. I've used it before in a large 3 way build. It sounds very open and detailed for a soft dome, closer to a metal dome but has a bit more warmth in the lower mids.
If you don't want to measure your drivers in box and simulate a bespoke crossover (preferred approach), then at least read:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...-crossovers-without-measurement.189847/unread
and come up with your own crossover and post here for critique.
The problem with asking others for a crossover, is they invest their time when there is no commitment from you. I've done this before for the person just to abandon or flip / flop / change their mind.
So - give it a go, and then ask for help.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...-crossovers-without-measurement.189847/unread
and come up with your own crossover and post here for critique.
The problem with asking others for a crossover, is they invest their time when there is no commitment from you. I've done this before for the person just to abandon or flip / flop / change their mind.
So - give it a go, and then ask for help.
Thank you for the suggestion, and to be clear I was not soliciting for a crossover. (with the exception of someone who volunteers ) I have read many post that individuals have shared there thoughts on a particular designs , that Collectively added to a solution . Enlightening
Just thought Why reinvent the wheel ! and frankly learn something in the process , and perhaps pointing to a bargain opportunity , The sale at madisound, The idea here was to try to get some thoughts, and on the basis of that interchange make a more solid choice for myself and maybe others looking for a fun project
My previous post from a designer that outlined a example of a unusual crossover design that included my tweeter was intended to spark opinions and observations , reply's that as of today are over my head . You do have to start somewhere though ,don't you ?
There is a practical side to this as well as the parts can be expensive,and trying different iterations of any one design more so .
I posted previously on the woofer Break up problem ,and and I think the comments ( Including your own ) were lets say constructive , and by the way appreciated So Thank you ,
I Think that Many here Have Benefited from your post, I certainly have ! so again much appreciated.
It seems more feedback rather than less would be helpful ,for myself I build instruments and really enjoy hearing others play them so I think I can emphasize with that lack of interaction, Perhaps asking for a YouTube post could be requested ? Just a thought
steve
Just thought Why reinvent the wheel ! and frankly learn something in the process , and perhaps pointing to a bargain opportunity , The sale at madisound, The idea here was to try to get some thoughts, and on the basis of that interchange make a more solid choice for myself and maybe others looking for a fun project
My previous post from a designer that outlined a example of a unusual crossover design that included my tweeter was intended to spark opinions and observations , reply's that as of today are over my head . You do have to start somewhere though ,don't you ?
There is a practical side to this as well as the parts can be expensive,and trying different iterations of any one design more so .
I posted previously on the woofer Break up problem ,and and I think the comments ( Including your own ) were lets say constructive , and by the way appreciated So Thank you ,
I Think that Many here Have Benefited from your post, I certainly have ! so again much appreciated.
It seems more feedback rather than less would be helpful ,for myself I build instruments and really enjoy hearing others play them so I think I can emphasize with that lack of interaction, Perhaps asking for a YouTube post could be requested ? Just a thought
steve
@4KAOss there are many who can help get you started. Seas have already done the heavy lifting from the product page, giving on-axis measurements in a dimensioned box:
"measured in a 7L closed box with outside dimensions 180mm x 210mm x 290mm"
"measured in a 7L closed box with outside dimensions 180mm x 210mm x 290mm"
- so basically very small minis; one can start from there
- Madisound also did their LEAP box suggestion thing for vented alignments - 0.25 cubic ft (7L) with port length and diameter for F3 56hz.
I'll take a stab and hopefully others can add better advice. Files attached.
I went with an XO of 2300hz; as the L15 8ohm owner said they used in their build on the woofer distortion thread.
Any higher is tricky for the woofer to track to a second order curve. The Seas datasheet for the tweeter recommended frequency range from 2.5k, though; a bit of a bind so one probably doesn't want to go lower than 2.3khz unless going to a higher order.
Woofer is LR2 and tweeter is BW3. Target SPL of 83.4db.
I used a woofer notch similar to the Purifi pdf. There are other ways, but this seems to work well.
Goran from Audioexcite uses a parallel LC for his Excel mini, which would also work well.
I applied diffraction to the tweeter curve based on a 180mm W by 266mm H baffle using Jeff Bagby's diffraction spreadsheet (but it doesn't do much).
Phase is all derived from the traced curves, thus probably inaccurate. Jeff Babgy wrote that one can proxy about 20mm for your average 1" dome + 5" woofer. Again, maybe others can refine this, and maybe irrelevant where an LR2 + BW3 filter pair is used.
I went with an XO of 2300hz; as the L15 8ohm owner said they used in their build on the woofer distortion thread.
Any higher is tricky for the woofer to track to a second order curve. The Seas datasheet for the tweeter recommended frequency range from 2.5k, though; a bit of a bind so one probably doesn't want to go lower than 2.3khz unless going to a higher order.
Woofer is LR2 and tweeter is BW3. Target SPL of 83.4db.
I used a woofer notch similar to the Purifi pdf. There are other ways, but this seems to work well.
Goran from Audioexcite uses a parallel LC for his Excel mini, which would also work well.
I applied diffraction to the tweeter curve based on a 180mm W by 266mm H baffle using Jeff Bagby's diffraction spreadsheet (but it doesn't do much).
Phase is all derived from the traced curves, thus probably inaccurate. Jeff Babgy wrote that one can proxy about 20mm for your average 1" dome + 5" woofer. Again, maybe others can refine this, and maybe irrelevant where an LR2 + BW3 filter pair is used.
Attachments
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Aargh, from Dickason, 7.51, he calls this a series notch. Ditto Vcad lib.
And from Vcad, this is what the lib draws for a parallel notch, and from Dickason figure 7.109, a "parallel trap".
And from Vcad, this is what the lib draws for a parallel notch, and from Dickason figure 7.109, a "parallel trap".
Out of curiosity, I tried Goran's Excel XO topology and you can see the notch difference below (Goran's series notch in red, Purifi parallel trap in blue).
Seems like this yields a deeper notch and less shelving beyond 10khz, as well a sensitivity bump 100-500hz that might be worthwhile.
No HD measurements, of course and unfortunately.
Seems like this yields a deeper notch and less shelving beyond 10khz, as well a sensitivity bump 100-500hz that might be worthwhile.
No HD measurements, of course and unfortunately.