The room is square, but in one corner there is a big wood enclosure that goes up to ceiling height, it would cut off about 4 feet both ways of the room. But the speakers are centered to that remaining 9 feet. One speaker is against a corner while the other is not. I know none of this is ideal but I think I should still make good speakers as I will probably move within a year. The B&W's sound amazing to my untrained ear in this space without needing to turn the sub on.
I think its the salty sea air thats the problem, no need to worry about lakes or humidifiers. 🙂
Sb's SB17CAC datasheet report the xmax of 11mm (p-p), so one way at least 5.5mm. It use the formular xmax(p-p)= voice coil height - air gap height
I banned bass reflex, too much bad resonance in my room, if you want to use a subwoofer, it is better.
The problem is to find a good sounding driver. The driver you accept to live with ....
Depends on your taste.
I keep flagship drivers longer than standard drivers. There are some exceptional case you have very good sound and very cheap driver. These one are kept for a long time too.
Hope this helps.
This are some quick photos I found of the room
I can already hear the comments about my speakers being too close together and not intended for nearfield hahaha.
I can already hear the comments about my speakers being too close together and not intended for nearfield hahaha.
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That helps a lot thanks! If I take your advice it would narrow down my options to a single driver you recommended, the 0.5 Qts Scandi's. I saw a polish manufacturer uses these in pretty high end builds.
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In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. But, in practice, there is.
XO can very easily go wrong, particualrily with drivers that are not easy to XO. You are near-feild and (likely) errors — some you can’t avoid or work arounds cause other problems — will be more obvious.
XOs are typically way harder than the rest and choice of ill-behaved drivers makes that way harder. Active XO is easier to do, but still … compromoises.
Leave it external then. Yes you can. But even the best XO doesn’t get rid of the inherent problem with drivers separated by space. A coax can fix much of that, a FR dispenses withj the XO completely so it isn’t a pron=blem fewer degrees of freedom mean fewer choices to screw up.
dave
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So if I do go for expensive drivers, I should avoid the difficult magnesium Seas and go for the revelator or Curv hey? I also assume you would reccomend that I drop the idea of a ribbon tweeter, I heard those are hard to implement (all tho I don't know for what reasons). My inspiration for this build are the Aurum Cantus speakers that have the ribbon and kevlar+non woven carbon fiber woofer.
I’ve heard those. Should be pretty easy. $1,100 retail suggests, since B&W buys huge quantities, raw driver, XO parts cost is likely just over $100.
Did you answer the query about what amplifier you plan to use?
dave
Yep, it's a Kenwood C1 Pre and an M1 amp as seen on some of those photos. The C1 is modified to have a sub out on one of the tape outputs because my sub was behaving very weirdly wired to the M1.
Thinking about the box:
The front edges need much more roundover/chamfer to make the shape of the rest of the box useful
dave
The front edges need much more roundover/chamfer to make the shape of the rest of the box useful
dave
Okay, I think I have a cool idea of how to achieve this. Ill have it mounted to the bottom of the speaker instead of the port in its own box.
Yep, I have actually done that already, is there any angle I should use or just as much curve as possible? Thanks!
Well behaved drivers will give a substantially better shot at getting a decent XO.
I have not heard the M1, but iut has a decent rep and should have low Rout so that won’t complicate your build.
Thanx for the pictures. Thanx for the gratitous picture of the nice butt.
The pictures have 2 different TTs, probably both Direct Drive? The one decent DD we had thru was a Kenwood, not the one shown wo the speed bumps on the platter rim (could it be a belt-drive?).
In the end it did not stand the test of time vrs other less expensive belt-drives.
Do you have other sources?
dave
I have not heard the M1, but iut has a decent rep and should have low Rout so that won’t complicate your build.
Thanx for the pictures. Thanx for the gratitous picture of the nice butt.
The pictures have 2 different TTs, probably both Direct Drive? The one decent DD we had thru was a Kenwood, not the one shown wo the speed bumps on the platter rim (could it be a belt-drive?).
In the end it did not stand the test of time vrs other less expensive belt-drives.
Do you have other sources?
dave
The goal is something like 4” roundover equivalent. Usually not acheivable.
A chamfer gives a larger effective radius given a specific amount of material that can be removed, bigger the better. At teh frequencies involved little difference in a chafer vrs a round-over except the size.
dave
Note @Sebastian F if you go to a 5" + 1" , The 1" could be in waveguide like a Visaton WG148R. The crossover becomes very simple ...
Glad it won't be in the way, I had a Nad 3155 before that but I prefer the Kenwood stack.
Yes the photos are over the course of a year, lots of things have come and gone. The smaller TT is a Toshiba belt drive, it was my first real TT, previously I had a At LP something (not the 60) with a built in phono in France. I bought a direct drive Pioneer Pl530 later that I am trying to sell now because it can't handle the subwoofer right underneath it. I recently purchased a Kenwood KP 990 from Japan. Its an awesome direct drive, has an incredible closed loop chassis inside, can be run without the plinth. I got an entry level ortofon MC cart for it and I am really happy. I just need to have it fixed because no matter what I try to replace inside, it keeps on burning one transistor instead of lowering the arm.
What seemed to be the issue? Kenwood I believe does not have the highest reputation compared to Sansui and Pioneer for amps, and compared to Technics, JVC or other for turntables, but they made a few really good pieces of gear that can be had for cheaper than equivalent top brands. I payed 600 CAD for the Kenwood TT and someone is selling a very similar (if not worse) JVC in my area for 2500 CAD.
The motor is good too, it is smooth, no ball bearing, its a rifled metal shaft and same as used in those nice direct drive JVC's. Its just beat by the patented dual motor from the 40s or something. I heard people say that the Kenwood motor is better than the strong torque technics motors and plays smoother and more musically which apparently you can hear mostly on violins and similar string instruments.
My gf is laughing rn, I didn't have another photo that showed the back wall on hand lol.
My TT is out of order at the moment so I am using my computer a lot. Don't hate me but I use YouTube music streaming for most of my listening, until I get the TT functioning again anyways. There is a SMSL dac between the PC and the C1. I also have decent cables everywhere, especially between the TT and preamp.
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