Hi All,
Been googling like crazy trying to find out the math behind factory packaged Home Theater speakers...
Most of these are just a simple driver in a tiny enclosure that has holes all over it for mounting...
My question - Is there any design put into these, other than an aesthetic / as small as possible enclosure to house the driver?
Another question...The math
I have a Dayton PS95-8 - the FS of the driver is 119.8Hz
and a Vas of 0.94L
Does that simply mean, if I shove it in a 0.94L, randomly designed, sealed enclosure, it'll happily resonate away at 119.8Hz?
Looking at the graph of the speaker, at about 120Hz, we're already 3dB down from the peak response anways, so does that mean that making a 'fancy' enclosure simply uses box design to get better bass at the low end, partially making up for deficiencies in the driver design?
https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/295-349--dayton-audio-ps95-8-spec-sheet.pdf
So, my real question - by creating a larger enclosure, or using a ported enclosure of some type, I'm essentially just moving that graph's flat response to the left a bit -
In summary...
...Is there any real point in designing a fancy enclosure if I'm not bothered about stuff below 120Hz?
...should I just create an enclosure of 0.94L or slightly larger and be done with it!?
Cheers
Been googling like crazy trying to find out the math behind factory packaged Home Theater speakers...
Most of these are just a simple driver in a tiny enclosure that has holes all over it for mounting...
My question - Is there any design put into these, other than an aesthetic / as small as possible enclosure to house the driver?
Another question...The math
I have a Dayton PS95-8 - the FS of the driver is 119.8Hz
and a Vas of 0.94L
Does that simply mean, if I shove it in a 0.94L, randomly designed, sealed enclosure, it'll happily resonate away at 119.8Hz?
Looking at the graph of the speaker, at about 120Hz, we're already 3dB down from the peak response anways, so does that mean that making a 'fancy' enclosure simply uses box design to get better bass at the low end, partially making up for deficiencies in the driver design?
https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/295-349--dayton-audio-ps95-8-spec-sheet.pdf
So, my real question - by creating a larger enclosure, or using a ported enclosure of some type, I'm essentially just moving that graph's flat response to the left a bit -
In summary...
...Is there any real point in designing a fancy enclosure if I'm not bothered about stuff below 120Hz?
...should I just create an enclosure of 0.94L or slightly larger and be done with it!?
Cheers
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You also need to consider the Qts value of the driver.
Others here can rattle off the equations, as they know them by heart.
If your Qts is about 0.5 or higher, within reason, then you should be able to get response down to Fs, maybe a little lower, but the box will be Vas volume or larger. CLOSED box.
Search WinISD and thread here about the program, and then you can experiment and find out yourself
I wouldnt bother with vented for surrounds.
I am currently using Fountek FW100 woofers, Fs 77Hz, Vas 2.2 Litre, Qts 0.65, in 3 litre closed box, needs to be a touch bigger, say 4 litres, to give me a nice 100Hz F3, to match with a sub, or for surround duty.
Yes, they arent fullrangers, but the principle is the same.
Others here can rattle off the equations, as they know them by heart.
If your Qts is about 0.5 or higher, within reason, then you should be able to get response down to Fs, maybe a little lower, but the box will be Vas volume or larger. CLOSED box.
Search WinISD and thread here about the program, and then you can experiment and find out yourself
I wouldnt bother with vented for surrounds.
I am currently using Fountek FW100 woofers, Fs 77Hz, Vas 2.2 Litre, Qts 0.65, in 3 litre closed box, needs to be a touch bigger, say 4 litres, to give me a nice 100Hz F3, to match with a sub, or for surround duty.
Yes, they arent fullrangers, but the principle is the same.
Last edited:
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