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@CoolJazz ,
I permitt to input again as I followed your thread ( I do listen Jazz too)
But if you really know what you do and have exceptional wood skills, I wouldn't go for the sketch you shown. And forget what I say if you know already what I am inputing :
There is more chance to have a singing box than a stiff dead one with your last sketch if using parquet like sheetss of wood with cuted angles at the rigth dimension. reason : for the bass and low midrange you want a dead stiff cabinet that radiate by itself the least possible. That's why you see cabs with a lot of braces : it is to make it stiff (and at the same time when you rise the weigth you lowish the resonances where they are the most armings, uh)
You could go for a stiff monkey coffin (brcause integrity is easier with rigth angles for most of the cutting tools and diy toolings, or at least a thick front baffle on a classic parrrelpiped cabinet and 30/35° chamfers for better (sounding) result imo on the front baffle !
And anyway you will have to make measurements for the filter whatever the design if you don't cop to a ready well made design like the 12RS450 from Gravsen (you pay for the design and the good Jensen parts but you go active, so the advice of one of his open design is a very good one) or the 12.3 from Zaphaudio (free, though passive). There are a lot I'm sure (German diy market with their magazines ?)
It is not ridiculous if you cop on a ready project to use passive for the mid tweeter filter and an active for the mid to bass driver... But you have to match the spl between the passive amp and the active one (plate amp).
I would go for Hypex for the low section and use an amp you have for the mid low pass & treble high pass passive filter. Can be tricky though cause the passive filter is measured and made according a same voltage sent to the drivers.... You always can use FIR filtering in the digital domain to correct from the DSP source (I don't know if Hypex plate amps can also go with a digital signal going directly DAC and not analog only with ADC to DAC ).
If DSP I would go directly for a multichannel DAC solution as tthe Hypex Flex8 or better a DIY one 🙂 (goal : avoiding the ADC stage solution that at the end sound all the same on Q point of view)
Of course forgett what I am saying if you are already aware of all the trade offs. Of course if the design cabinet dictates thhe choice for whatever reason and is high to your list, that's another story 🙂 !
I permitt to input again as I followed your thread ( I do listen Jazz too)
But if you really know what you do and have exceptional wood skills, I wouldn't go for the sketch you shown. And forget what I say if you know already what I am inputing :
There is more chance to have a singing box than a stiff dead one with your last sketch if using parquet like sheetss of wood with cuted angles at the rigth dimension. reason : for the bass and low midrange you want a dead stiff cabinet that radiate by itself the least possible. That's why you see cabs with a lot of braces : it is to make it stiff (and at the same time when you rise the weigth you lowish the resonances where they are the most armings, uh)
You could go for a stiff monkey coffin (brcause integrity is easier with rigth angles for most of the cutting tools and diy toolings, or at least a thick front baffle on a classic parrrelpiped cabinet and 30/35° chamfers for better (sounding) result imo on the front baffle !
And anyway you will have to make measurements for the filter whatever the design if you don't cop to a ready well made design like the 12RS450 from Gravsen (you pay for the design and the good Jensen parts but you go active, so the advice of one of his open design is a very good one) or the 12.3 from Zaphaudio (free, though passive). There are a lot I'm sure (German diy market with their magazines ?)
It is not ridiculous if you cop on a ready project to use passive for the mid tweeter filter and an active for the mid to bass driver... But you have to match the spl between the passive amp and the active one (plate amp).
I would go for Hypex for the low section and use an amp you have for the mid low pass & treble high pass passive filter. Can be tricky though cause the passive filter is measured and made according a same voltage sent to the drivers.... You always can use FIR filtering in the digital domain to correct from the DSP source (I don't know if Hypex plate amps can also go with a digital signal going directly DAC and not analog only with ADC to DAC ).
If DSP I would go directly for a multichannel DAC solution as tthe Hypex Flex8 or better a DIY one 🙂 (goal : avoiding the ADC stage solution that at the end sound all the same on Q point of view)
Of course forgett what I am saying if you are already aware of all the trade offs. Of course if the design cabinet dictates thhe choice for whatever reason and is high to your list, that's another story 🙂 !
That is a specialised device, a dub preamp called the "nanopre" made by Klementz (but out of production). This is used here to test as this is a what in the reggae scene is known as a mnisound, a small stack tuned to play reggae and dub for small parties. It's a analog rotary dj mixer, with filters, a delay and a dub siren build in and is fully mono.
These devices are mostly made on order, and very often customised. It's a tradition that reggae and dub soundsystem use a lot of custom equipment, often even the amps are custom or modded. We don't go that far here, but the preamp (that is mine) is an essential thing for that style.
Looks good,
Looks like a stuff made for DJs in the electronic lipsticked vintage sauce with the guy turning the knobs while people are "dancing" !
Looks like a stuff made for DJs in the electronic lipsticked vintage sauce with the guy turning the knobs while people are "dancing" !
A dub preamp is more than that, it's a real tool essential to play reggae or dub sound. Traditionally reggae and dub is not really mixed, they use one turntable and a microphone and the preamp to make the vibe. This is the legendaric Channel One Sound (since 1978) from London in their homebase going mad with the pre...
That makes me think of carabean Ska at the beginning but speedier with a touch of comercial electro after. I see no soul there !
It's modern (UK style) dub, founded in jamaiaca in the late 60's and now one of the most influential and popular forms of reggae worldwide, with huge underground scenes in almost all countries in the world. It may not be your cup of tea, but it's a vibe that attrackt huge crowds since at least the mid 80's (with Jah Shaka ao). And Channel One soundsystem is one of the pioneers in the UK. It had a huge influence on modern electronic music, that is true, but it's older and rooted in the west-african traditional music trough reggae.
I heard that almost 20 years agoalready. ALmost makes me think to Matrix3. This is green washing marmelade new but not new imho. Beats made, easy to dance for the young intoverts that jump in groups dancing with *** towards the external of the dance floor like a non assumed calling ! Pathetic (to me).
And frankly not good (to my taste). I prefer the Jamaican/carabean US contamined and african Dumb of the end of 60s to 700s' or the AFrican beat of the 70s'
Sorry, off topic.
And frankly not good (to my taste). I prefer the Jamaican/carabean US contamined and african Dumb of the end of 60s to 700s' or the AFrican beat of the 70s'
Sorry, off topic.
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The facetted walls will make the enclosure very stiff - no or just minimal panel vibrations!
Appreciate the input. To me, it seems intuitive that narrow 'plancks' resonate less or at least higher in frequency than big wide side walls. I could be completely wrong of course, as I have no evidence for this assumption. My reasoning is basically: smaller = higher frequency
One of the goals of this project is to build something based on science/evidence. I'm trying to sim this thing as well as I can using Vituixcad and Akabak (still learning)
The plan is to use a 2 channel DAC in to a 2 channel plate DSP plate amp per speaker (Hypex FA252) powering both the low end and the HF.
One of the goals of this project is to build something based on science/evidence. I'm trying to sim this thing as well as I can using Vituixcad and Akabak (still learning)
The plan is to use a 2 channel DAC in to a 2 channel plate DSP plate amp per speaker (Hypex FA252) powering both the low end and the HF.
If you want to avoid the enclosure length resonance exiting the port (and driver) you could make simulations with hornresp offset port mass loaded transmission line model and move driver and port to their "ideal" positions.
The goal is to either make the cab's 'Fs' below or above its BW, so normally we want it to go lower and while facets removes material = less weight, ergo summed panel resonances rise, just normally not enough to matter, so best IME is to use HR or similar parabolic horn theory to design this style cab, then use thin/flexible material + bracing the sides and finish with vertical 'X' bracing to tie all six sides together with the one parallel to the baffle designed to mass load the driver to the whole cab.
Have you looked at molded MDF and ply curves and partial curves? Regular thin section faceting looks like a 'troublesome' solution...
Works fine with quality no void plywood and wouldn't even consider doing the MDF available locally except cabinet/furniture maker's $$ like Altec and others use(d) for Vott horns, whole cabs.
I thought about doing 'regular' curved sides, but I like the look of the facetted wall better and I don't really see the issue with the facets. I will be a more complicated build but I like a bit of a woodworking challenge. I will use good quality plywood, never liked MDF. Is there a way to sim cabinet resonances and bracing? I'm not yet familiar with HornResp.