Scottmoose said:Sure you can do it, if you accept that they're likely to have very little grunt under about 200Hz at all.
The Velodynes that I'm mating them with cost me $129 at Fry's.
Fortunately the crossover on them makes it to 200 Hz, and that's
where it tends to be used.
gychang said:any chance for cheapo-in-a-box?
How cheap did you have in mind?
😎
FR125SR in 7-10 litres is a quite acceptable speaker. And to my mind slightly smaller aperiodic is even better.
Even in the smallest of these expect bass to extend below 100 Hz.
dave
Even in the smallest of these expect bass to extend below 100 Hz.
dave
+1 on the Tang Bands.
I'm doing a TB W3-1364-in-a-box and corner loading it to solve the BSC problem. A 4.8liter (internal) test box I did (just like Godzillas) put out to 100Hz free field!!
These are for the kitchen aimed at the stove (I make my own bass here
😀
I'm doing a TB W3-1364-in-a-box and corner loading it to solve the BSC problem. A 4.8liter (internal) test box I did (just like Godzillas) put out to 100Hz free field!!
These are for the kitchen aimed at the stove (I make my own bass here
😀
Attachments
Nelson,
If you were to build a 'not too big' subwoofer (instead of buying one, despite it being cheap) to mate with a small sealed fullranger, what would be your cost-size-performance approach?
Would you consider a pair of smallish sealed subs (equalized perhaps-small box with a big driver) using a 15" bass driver like Eminence Beta 15 to be a a good option, or you'd rather go for a smaller bass driver (10" or so) in a sort of a ported enclosures?
Thanks,
Vix
If you were to build a 'not too big' subwoofer (instead of buying one, despite it being cheap) to mate with a small sealed fullranger, what would be your cost-size-performance approach?
Would you consider a pair of smallish sealed subs (equalized perhaps-small box with a big driver) using a 15" bass driver like Eminence Beta 15 to be a a good option, or you'd rather go for a smaller bass driver (10" or so) in a sort of a ported enclosures?
Thanks,
Vix
Vix said:If you were to build a 'not too big' subwoofer (instead of buying one, despite it being cheap) to mate with a small sealed fullranger, what would be your cost-size-performance approach?
Would you consider a pair of smallish sealed subs (equalized perhaps-small box with a big driver) using a 15" bass driver like Eminence Beta 15 to be a a good option, or you'd rather go for a smaller bass driver (10" or so) in a sort of a ported enclosures?
My approach is to buy/make lots of stuff and try anything. The
central difficulty with mating a woofer and FR is the crossover. It's
not trivial to get both the amplitude and phase correct, but once you
do, the rest usually falls into place.
😎
I came across a pair of sony 80W plate amps that have a dial: 50 to 200 Hz, a phase button, and a volume button for the grand price of free.
I bought a pair of the NHT surplus 8" peerless subwoofers. Hopefully that should cover my bottom end.
I'm now eagerly looking forward to spending more money (hopefully not much) on a pair of fullrangers. I've had a couple of discussions with Adam about this arrangement, and think it would be a pretty rewarding path. I also like the idea of "big" sound, but in a more child/wife friendly package.
I bought a pair of the NHT surplus 8" peerless subwoofers. Hopefully that should cover my bottom end.
I'm now eagerly looking forward to spending more money (hopefully not much) on a pair of fullrangers. I've had a couple of discussions with Adam about this arrangement, and think it would be a pretty rewarding path. I also like the idea of "big" sound, but in a more child/wife friendly package.
Nelson Pass said:Anyways, I'll kick this out the door soon (low hanging fruit).
😎
Done any fruit pickin' recently?
😉
Looking forward to the Jordan article - Pat
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