I just saw this article and I thought you guys might like it. It looks like a company created a special type of screw to help turn drywall into sound absorbing panels. I'm really curious how they perform. Considering the price of building a room with great acoustics this would be an amazing way to improve a room, as well as a whole house, for peanuts.
New Spring-Loaded Screw Turns Drywall Into Sound-Absorbing Panels.
New Spring-Loaded Screw Turns Drywall Into Sound-Absorbing Panels.
It doesn't. The main sound transfer mechanism is by the timber stud connecting the drywall 'diaphragm' on one side to the drywall 'diaphragm' on the other side. Airborne transference between the sheets can be reduced with acoustic insulation, the same way it is done with double stud wall systems.
If you look carefully at the screw head you will see a thread that embeds the head into the drywall until it is recessed. Once installed, the screw head is flushed just like any other drywall fixing.
oops, I see that now, large threads like a drywall laminating screw. At first it looked like a spacer below the top. Well, it does look like it may be effective, but relatively fragile since the drywall is not held securely against the substrate. And drywall is virtually mashed potatoes.
Hi, JZatopa
I think that if you access to the studs, putting strips of 1/8" loaded vinyl on the face of all the studs would work equally well. Perhaps, Green Glue could be used as a substitute for the loaded vinyl with equally good results. I rebuilt my room using both of the above materials with excellent results.
Meet Joe, and his amazing DIY horn speakers - YouTube
Joe
Joe
I think that if you access to the studs, putting strips of 1/8" loaded vinyl on the face of all the studs would work equally well. Perhaps, Green Glue could be used as a substitute for the loaded vinyl with equally good results. I rebuilt my room using both of the above materials with excellent results.
Meet Joe, and his amazing DIY horn speakers - YouTube
Joe
Joe
If the sheets are nailed or screwed to the studs those fixings will provide a 'flanking' path for sound energy, bypassing the vinyl barrier. The fixings need to be resilient as well, or else a lot (perhaps the majority) of the benefit of the resilient layer to reducing sound transference will be lost.
You simply need to use resilient channel across the studs with the face turned upward, rubber grommets at the fastening points preventing the channel from making contact; with 5/8" Type X drywall. Space the channels 24" apart to maximize detachment/isolation. Grommets can be made by snipping 1/4" pieces of rubber windshield washer hose. Fasten until there's contact with stud, grommet, and channel, not more. The perimeter should not be in contact but floating and sealed with a soft silicone caulk. Roxul/mineral wool in between studs first. This assembly should yield an STC rating of close to 50; both sides of the wall, around 60-65.
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Have you actually used these grommets? How do you hit them blind through the drywall? How do you keep them in place?
Gypsum board acoustical assemblies are actually quite well researched and documented. Your description of one -- aside from the grommets -- is pretty accurate. The perimeter sealant is non-hardening "acoustic sealant"... I'm not sure I've seen any that are silicone based though.
Here's a useful resource:
https://www.usg.com/content/dam/USG...oustical-assemblies-brochure-en-sa200-can.pdf
Gypsum board acoustical assemblies are actually quite well researched and documented. Your description of one -- aside from the grommets -- is pretty accurate. The perimeter sealant is non-hardening "acoustic sealant"... I'm not sure I've seen any that are silicone based though.
Here's a useful resource:
https://www.usg.com/content/dam/USG...oustical-assemblies-brochure-en-sa200-can.pdf
I do this for a living.
The grommet is placed between the resilient channel and the stud positioned at the hole through which the screw passes into the stud. This adds to the performance of the resilient by further detaching it from the substrate. Drywall is then fastened to the resilient channel. If on the ceiling, the grommets are deleted and the screws are driven just far enough to allow the resilient to hang on the flute of the screw without the resilient making contact with the joist. The grommets allow for the resilient to be loosely attached to a wall without the flange making contact.
Care must be taken to not breech the system by fastening drywall at a resilient/stud intersection. A single screw making contact in this position will go a long way in defeating the entire system. Best to measure and draw a light pencil line on the drywall above the studs/joists. This way you know where not to fasten the drywall.
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Ahhh... reading comprehension. Where are you when I need you? Sorry about that.
But have you used the grommets and seen a difference? I would have thought that unless you used grommets with shoulders (or something) that you'd negate the effects via direct metal to metal to wood contact.
Maybe Rawl plugs?
RAWLNUT Flexi Plugs
But have you used the grommets and seen a difference? I would have thought that unless you used grommets with shoulders (or something) that you'd negate the effects via direct metal to metal to wood contact.
Maybe Rawl plugs?
RAWLNUT Flexi Plugs