I've used square nuts sometimes, recessed into square holes. (You can make square holes with an appropriate size of hand chisel, easily enough.) It's a compact solution, and worked fine for me.
Based on the above, I think I go for this:
Amp box: 10off M4x15mm hex bolts, edge-wise into 12mm Valchromat walls: use M4 threaded inserts guled into 6mm holes, drilled while clamped.
Back panel to side walls (20mm wide): M4x20mm self tapping screws into 4mm holes reinforced with a couple of layers of PVA glue, also drilled while clamped.
Amp box: 10off M4x15mm hex bolts, edge-wise into 12mm Valchromat walls: use M4 threaded inserts guled into 6mm holes, drilled while clamped.
Back panel to side walls (20mm wide): M4x20mm self tapping screws into 4mm holes reinforced with a couple of layers of PVA glue, also drilled while clamped.
the chromed ones are butter. these pure brass ones, used for a version of my LS 3/5a box, are perfect.
in my case, they are mounted from behind / inside. the slats of the box frame, where the front rests, are drilled with a 4.5mm bit before being glued, then I drill the hole to insert the 6mm inserts from the inside without coming out on the front. in practice the insert works in the internal half of its thickness (ls3/5a - slats of beech wood / or hard wood of 16/18mm squared) at this point when the brass insert reaches the stop it blocks and does not move anymore. I have seen many try to use the threaded inserts on the front and since they are things to be made with extreme precision, they ended up tearing the insert while screwing the front LS 3/5a.
For multi density wood or particle board, use inserts.
Otherwise it is still comical that a course " sheetrock" or " drywall" screw is used usually pre drilled so you dont split multi density type wood.
Otherwise they do have course screws now marketed as MDF or particle board screws to make cabinet builders feel better.
aka "sheet rock" screw.
Except depending on the hardware needing a pan head for hinges or tapered wood screw for flush mount.
Then use " particle board" screws.
Best to pre drill.
Otherwise known as a course sharp edge wood screw. AKA also known as a Sheet rock, Drywall, screw.
Im sure the names change by region.
Of course it cant be black anodized, you just plate it to make it look special.
For some flush hardware as mentioned it is a course thread with sharp edges but has a panhead.
You can also add a washer as well for the panhead to catch.
Below is flush mount taper head.
or use panhead with washer, they have shank and non shank, below is shank panhead.
I prefer threaded insert and use a panhead bolt with washer for a panel.
Otherwise it is still comical that a course " sheetrock" or " drywall" screw is used usually pre drilled so you dont split multi density type wood.
Otherwise they do have course screws now marketed as MDF or particle board screws to make cabinet builders feel better.
aka "sheet rock" screw.
Except depending on the hardware needing a pan head for hinges or tapered wood screw for flush mount.
Then use " particle board" screws.
Best to pre drill.
Otherwise known as a course sharp edge wood screw. AKA also known as a Sheet rock, Drywall, screw.
Im sure the names change by region.
Of course it cant be black anodized, you just plate it to make it look special.
For some flush hardware as mentioned it is a course thread with sharp edges but has a panhead.
You can also add a washer as well for the panhead to catch.
Below is flush mount taper head.
or use panhead with washer, they have shank and non shank, below is shank panhead.
I prefer threaded insert and use a panhead bolt with washer for a panel.
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Did the amp today using m4 inserts. Worked perfectly and better than expected. Pics here:
Post in thread '3-way to active - Hypex FA253 - learning project'
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...ex-fa253-learning-project.421061/post-7962465
Post in thread '3-way to active - Hypex FA253 - learning project'
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...ex-fa253-learning-project.421061/post-7962465
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