Hello all, recently picked up used Schiit Bifrost 2. DAC was well packaged but not in the OG box so it had room slide around a bit in the box and must have gotten tossed around pretty hard as the toggle power switch on the back too a good hit and is pretty finicky. It works but I don't really trust it.
Schiit said they can fix it for ~$100 out of warranty but if its just a damaged switch its probably something I can replace for $5 as I've built crossovers and have done a bit of through hole soldering. Unfortunately Schiit won't provide any support even to the extent of saying what switch they use, so I'm not exactly sure what I need. Its a right angle toggle switch with three legs so I think makes it a SPDT, on-on? I'm not sue what series though or how that even works?
Here is a picture of the inside of the Bifrost.
Digi-Key has a bunch of switches that look to be of the right type and the switch I'm looking at is E-Switch 100SP1T2B4M7QE (Its a right angle through hole vertical, 100 series SPDT) and looks to be identical but again, I'm not 100% on what I'm looking at. Am I on the right track here?
Schiit said they can fix it for ~$100 out of warranty but if its just a damaged switch its probably something I can replace for $5 as I've built crossovers and have done a bit of through hole soldering. Unfortunately Schiit won't provide any support even to the extent of saying what switch they use, so I'm not exactly sure what I need. Its a right angle toggle switch with three legs so I think makes it a SPDT, on-on? I'm not sue what series though or how that even works?
Here is a picture of the inside of the Bifrost.
Digi-Key has a bunch of switches that look to be of the right type and the switch I'm looking at is E-Switch 100SP1T2B4M7QE (Its a right angle through hole vertical, 100 series SPDT) and looks to be identical but again, I'm not 100% on what I'm looking at. Am I on the right track here?
Yes.
Of course you will need to put the device out of use ASAP and desolder the switch first and check the type number/measure which pins are NC/NO just in case. Compare to the new one. Also check specs of the new one if it can cope with 230V xA if you are in a 230V country.
It probably is wise to use a sharp side cutter and cut the legs of the old one first as far way from the PCB as possible. Then desolder pins fast and tidy.
It is a flimsy type of switch probably having a double function as a delayed sales enhancer for new gear. One could also think of using a PCB connector, 2 x 0.5 mm2 wires and a chassis mount sturdier toggle switch.
Of course you will need to put the device out of use ASAP and desolder the switch first and check the type number/measure which pins are NC/NO just in case. Compare to the new one. Also check specs of the new one if it can cope with 230V xA if you are in a 230V country.
It probably is wise to use a sharp side cutter and cut the legs of the old one first as far way from the PCB as possible. Then desolder pins fast and tidy.
It is a flimsy type of switch probably having a double function as a delayed sales enhancer for new gear. One could also think of using a PCB connector, 2 x 0.5 mm2 wires and a chassis mount sturdier toggle switch.
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No need to worry about, as I'm in the US.
Sorry, I pretty new to circuits, what does NC/NO mean? I assume you mean measure with a multimeter what the switch is doing relative to the pin out on the switch?
Also, just for my understanding can anyone explain why this has a switch with three legs on it and the switch is a "on/on" switch? Clearly one position on the switch is turning it "off" from a practical perspective. Is one of the positions on the switch powering only a certain part of the DAC like a standby mode before its really on?
Thats a good idea.
Normally Closed
Normally Open
The part number and brand may be on the switch.
But any similar switch will work, there are many brands.
Desoldering will be difficult and can damage the board, which may be more than two layers.
Normally Open
The part number and brand may be on the switch.
But any similar switch will work, there are many brands.
Desoldering will be difficult and can damage the board, which may be more than two layers.
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Emphasis on “similar”. Burned my fingers once. Never assume, measure and verify. Compare specs. Success can be simple. Like failure.
Operandi, it is OK that you are in the US (somebody has to live there 😉) but still there is the phenomenon called “current”. If the original switch is rated 120V 5A one better replaces it for a 120V 5A or higher rated one.
It could be that the off position feeds a circuit but it would be surprising.
Operandi, it is OK that you are in the US (somebody has to live there 😉) but still there is the phenomenon called “current”. If the original switch is rated 120V 5A one better replaces it for a 120V 5A or higher rated one.
It could be that the off position feeds a circuit but it would be surprising.
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I guess thats what I don't quite understand about how this works. If it was just a switch to close or open the circuit to power up the DAC wouldn't there just be two legs on the switch? From what I understand about SPDT switches (which is what this is if it has three legs) is that its controlling two circuits with a single input.
Most of the switches I'm looking at on Digi-Key are "On-On", or "On-Mon" (what is mom?), some have a third off position.
So even when the Bifrost is off some part of its circuit is on but why would the designers want that?
I've replaced capacitors on multi layer boards before which wasn't too bad so I would expect this to be easier.
Sometimes I really wonder how "OK" it really is....
Yeah, its just a DAC but I will definitely be replacing it with the same rating.
The 3 terminal ( ON- ON ) or SPDT type is standard, so just don't connect the other terminal for an on-off switch.
ON - MOM ( momentary ) has an internal spring to return it to ON.
The switch legs are thicker than most capacitor leads, and are more difficult to desolder safely.
And there's also the front mounting legs.
ON - MOM ( momentary ) has an internal spring to return it to ON.
The switch legs are thicker than most capacitor leads, and are more difficult to desolder safely.
And there's also the front mounting legs.