Agreed. I don't get the blooming after 1KHz in midwoofer.
The cone is very steep and that's why I suspect the cone might act like a kinda horn or waveguide in that range. The tweeter shows a similar behaviour. A WG-effect can be ruled out there. What's worse at the tweeter: narrow at 2 wide ranges and wide at another two ranges. And all within the main range used.
Very deep bass isn't to be expected. The decay waterfall at the 18WE/4542T00 midwoofer isn't as clean as it should have been expected for a driver which intentionally neglects the low end and instead concentrates on the mid range.
I have to say at the price of the drivers, I expect them to perform better in directivity. Other, cheaper drivers do and are as good or nearly as good in the other areas with around half of the price. My main impression is they try to sell the drivers by the 'elliptical gimmick' to enthusiasts with a lot of money who chose drivers with the credo "it's different and 'top of the range', it MUST be better".
TW distortion is good but nothing special. The mid one is really low.
Yes, I agree, I should have said of the mid one. The decay of the tweeter is excellent though.
I have to say at the price of the drivers, I expect them to perform better in directivity. Other, cheaper drivers do and are as good or nearly as good in the other areas with around half of the price. My main impression is they try to sell the drivers by the 'elliptical gimmick' to enthusiasts with a lot of money who chose drivers with the credo "it's different and 'top of the range', it MUST be better".
This. 850€ for each mid is, well..., in a range where there are so many more options than standard cones.
For my next project, I'm not getting either, but have considered them 🙂
I don't see anything that would really justify the price...
cone break up is similar to many other chassis at lesser prices (Satori etc.), Rms isn't really low (1.3 kg/s as measured by Klang&Ton)), and the high sensitivity is
due to the low impedance, high-ish resonance and low Qt.
But it looks so darn good, and it will sell. LOL
cone break up is similar to many other chassis at lesser prices (Satori etc.), Rms isn't really low (1.3 kg/s as measured by Klang&Ton)), and the high sensitivity is
due to the low impedance, high-ish resonance and low Qt.
But it looks so darn good, and it will sell. LOL
*I* said it first, damn it!😡
😛 🙄 😀
While DIY freaks will realize that or read it in some forum, there will be, and the emphasis is there on 'WILL' commercial speaker manufacturers who will claim they finally found the holy grail in speaker building (and ofcourse everyone else just claimed that wrongly) with the result of the next 'sensational' only one true speaker. And because there is - finally - something different, that's the explanation and - ofcourse then in turn - reason for the high-ender to buy that 'precious jewel'. That's exactly what I hate about the so-called 'high end' scene.

While DIY freaks will realize that or read it in some forum, there will be, and the emphasis is there on 'WILL' commercial speaker manufacturers who will claim they finally found the holy grail in speaker building (and ofcourse everyone else just claimed that wrongly) with the result of the next 'sensational' only one true speaker. And because there is - finally - something different, that's the explanation and - ofcourse then in turn - reason for the high-ender to buy that 'precious jewel'. That's exactly what I hate about the so-called 'high end' scene.
I saw Troels Gravesen's Ellipticor enclosure designs but i want to make 3 way slim floor stand with ellipticor series and another serie a woofer.
Anybody has a design like that?
If not how can i design enclosure and crossover for this type speaker?
Best Regards
Anybody has a design like that?
If not how can i design enclosure and crossover for this type speaker?
Best Regards
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Sorry i deleted Scottmoose's message accidentally.
Scottmoose wrote this:
"The short answer is 'learn how to design a loudspeaker'. To do it well, expect the process to take a few years. That's not a joke unfortunately. Or perhaps fortunately, as it's part of what makes the hobby interesting.
In essence to do it yourself, you need to
1/ Purchase the drive units
2/ Measure the T/S data for the woofer & midrange
3/ Decide what alignment will best suit both, and design the box accordingly
4/ Build enclosure and measure the impedance & frequency responses (on & off the horizontal + vertical axis)
5/ Import your measurements into your choice of crossover design software and model what will give you your desired slopes and impedance + frequency (on & off axis) characteristics.
If you're serious & don't want to spend a long time, I'd wait until a design or kit is made available. Troels, as I recall, has a 3-way under development."
Maybe moderators can fix it.
Very thank you for answer and great news ! I can wait for Troels' design of course.
Scottmoose wrote this:
"The short answer is 'learn how to design a loudspeaker'. To do it well, expect the process to take a few years. That's not a joke unfortunately. Or perhaps fortunately, as it's part of what makes the hobby interesting.
In essence to do it yourself, you need to
1/ Purchase the drive units
2/ Measure the T/S data for the woofer & midrange
3/ Decide what alignment will best suit both, and design the box accordingly
4/ Build enclosure and measure the impedance & frequency responses (on & off the horizontal + vertical axis)
5/ Import your measurements into your choice of crossover design software and model what will give you your desired slopes and impedance + frequency (on & off axis) characteristics.
If you're serious & don't want to spend a long time, I'd wait until a design or kit is made available. Troels, as I recall, has a 3-way under development."
Maybe moderators can fix it.
Very thank you for answer and great news ! I can wait for Troels' design of course.
I doubt you deleted it, but I probably did; I'd gone in to make an edit & wasn't really paying attention to what I was doing as I had CD burner in bits on my desk, a 'phone going off and the mains power acting the goat (again -second time it's happened).
What bass driver did you have in mind?
What bass driver did you have in mind?
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I totally don't sure but maybe it can be 22W/4851T00. Maybe it is not a good idea using a woofer with ellipticor midwoofer. 2 way slim floorstand can be better.
Do you have any idea/project for that or do you know details of Troels design?
Do you have any idea/project for that or do you know details of Troels design?
Nothing myself -I couldn't afford them even if I wanted to! You may wish to have a look at Troels's site & see how he's getting on. I know he's got his 2-way & 4-way projects up, and was talking about a 3-way, but haven't checked to see whether he's made any progress with the latter or provided any details yet.
One point -if you're stumping up for drivers of this price, do yourself a favour & make sure it's properly designed by somebody who knows what they're doing using actual measurements rather than guesstimates.
One point -if you're stumping up for drivers of this price, do yourself a favour & make sure it's properly designed by somebody who knows what they're doing using actual measurements rather than guesstimates.
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This. 850€ for each mid is, well..., in a range where there are so many more options than standard cones.
For my next project, I'm not getting either, but have considered them 🙂
What other options have you considered?
Personally I think the harmonic distortion is outstanding. Spectral decay is comparable to other high end drivers. I am not sure about the directivity.
the 18WE have really low thd https://hificompass.com/en/speakers/measurements/scan-speak/scanspeak-18we/8542t00Anyone done a build with Ellipticor yet then? How does it sound?
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