SB MR16P-8 compared to ScanSpeak 18M-4631t

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Yes I would. I have to admit that I have been somewhat overwhelmed in trying to play "wave guide catch-up".

You could build a 12" driver EconoWave design which matches the width of your 12" SB34NRX75-6 woofer. OR

Get greater rooom control by using a 60H x 40V horn to match an 8" midbass directivity, PLUS your 12" SB34NRX75-6 woofer on the side, OR two 8" woofers on the front baffle. OR

Minic the BMF1 speaker custom-built by Tweek Geeks with a 12" midbass and two powerful 12" subwoofers mounted low on the side panels. OR.. OR.. OR
 

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@hifijim, before you accumulate too many competing ideas, could you share the goals of your project? You already built something pretty good. Are you trying to build something of a similar level for another room, something one level up, or just keep the hobby alive?

Fair enough, that is a good idea...

My existing system is based on low-distortion metal/ceramic drivers operating below their first resonance mode... in essence all 3 drivers are pistonic. And yes, it does sound very good, about the best I have ever heard.

What I want to do now is build a pair of satellites using "soft diaphragm" technology, i.e. a really good paper cone mid and a really good soft dome tweeter. My woofer cabinets stay the same, and of course I will continue to use the speaker stands with the Hypex amps in their base. I want to see how they sound in comparison to my hard-driver satellites.

Eventually I plan to build a pair with the new Textreme Satori mid woofer and either a Textreme tweeter or a beryllium tweeter... but that is a future project. And in the future I may also experiment with wave guides, MTM configurations, and dipole speakers.

But for now I am focussing on very good paper cone mids and soft dome tweeters... with DSP crossovers at approximately 160-200 Hz and 1.6k - 2k.
 
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Generally speaking, metal drivers are often (but not always) stiffer and decay faster, and they usually have a resonance you need to keep out of the passband. Paper cones have a more damped resonance (if any) and ofter wider usable bandwidth, but also store energy. These are just generalities though and you use the right tool for the job. Don't pick a tool and allow it to define the job.

I suggest evaluating some aspect of your system and attempting to optimize that as your assignment instead.

The number one thing to optimize is frequency response, which is easy with the active XOs you have:
  • On axis response flat through XO
  • T-M responses symmetrical ~1oct past XO (don't just pay attention to summing flat)
  • Phase of T-M line up and sum appropriately for IIR chosen (or flat for FIR)
  • BSC dialed in appropriately
  • Off axis response falls away smoothly with lack of discontinuities, which results in smooth power response.
  • This also results in smooth DI without significant irregularities. This one is harder to achieve without waveguides or careful design.
I would graph the off axis response for current speakers 0-90deg (hor) and generate the power response and DI. Based on what you find, decide how to optimize them with your new project. Once you select the strategy, you can go shopping for appropriate drivers.
 
As for the drivers, I would suggest the giant-slayer SB17NAC35/SB17NBAC35 (hereafter referred to as "SB"). Within that passband, the SB's HD performance matches, if not betters, the superior driver of your original selection (the SS), and has a better CSD, at a significantly lower price point.

A few notes:


- the SB has a flatter frequency response which may or may not be an advantage depending on your crossover topology. if you're doing textbook filtering then the SB is probably better for you
- the SS is more sensitive than the SB, even comparing at the same impedance rating, so you'll need more power for the SB
- at ~92 dB @ 1m, the SS has an advantage in HD3 around 200 Hz, the SB17 has the advantage at 1 kHz and above for HD3 (I give the win to SB17 for HD at this SPL)
- the SS has a slight advantage over the SB17 around 200 Hz at ~98 dB @ 1 m, but if you are using a filter that gives you -6 dB at the crossover point, the SB17 will still be able to maintain the -80 dB HD5 trend and so I would call it even between the two drivers at this output level. the SS doesn't get any appreciable edge from the crossover dip.
- my comments are made based on HiFiCompass measurements

Conclusion: save the money and put it towards lower-hanging fruit, like a deader enclosure, diffraction control, or room treatment

EDIT: Sorry, didn't see that you want to try something other than metal cone drivers


Have you used either of the SB's? How?
 
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