Normally I would say 100 teeth is too many. However as your saw speed is much lower than most in use today it is probably perfect. My main saw can run at 8000 RPM although normal is 5000.
Thanks for all the replies.
Yes it is a tilting table model. The first few gears near the level setting on the front trunnion are somewhat stripped. But once it's all locked down it's fine.
The 100t blade question was for a new 5-1/2 circular saw.
Yesterday I made a ZCI and bought a piece of metal to make a splitter and I made some rails for a crosscut sled.
I was looking at the MJ splitters, but $35 for some pieces of plastic???
I did a few cuts yesterday and by a casual look they look pretty good. On mdf they seen plenty smooth with what looks like a pretty run of the mill 40t blade of unknown sharpness.
There is some vibration that I think is coming from the fact that the weight of the motor is what holds the tension on the belt.
Yes it is a tilting table model. The first few gears near the level setting on the front trunnion are somewhat stripped. But once it's all locked down it's fine.
The 100t blade question was for a new 5-1/2 circular saw.
Yesterday I made a ZCI and bought a piece of metal to make a splitter and I made some rails for a crosscut sled.
I was looking at the MJ splitters, but $35 for some pieces of plastic???
I did a few cuts yesterday and by a casual look they look pretty good. On mdf they seen plenty smooth with what looks like a pretty run of the mill 40t blade of unknown sharpness.
There is some vibration that I think is coming from the fact that the weight of the motor is what holds the tension on the belt.
Is the blade belt driven?
The belt drive limits the power that you can transfer from the motor to the blade.
A big blade that has become just slightly blunt will overload a belt drive and excessive slip will occur.
That slip wears out the belt/s and the pulley.
Oh and the school had to pay for the fire engine and crew that turned out because the little bit of smoke in the saw/stock room set off the fire alarm.
Twice.
The school finally got the maintenance technician in to replace the belts. Unfortunately he did not notice that 2 of the 4 pulley grooves had worn badly and effectively the 4 belt drive had reduced to a 2 belt drive and thus half torque and half power.
Prior to that they ignored my request for maintenance.
The belt drive limits the power that you can transfer from the motor to the blade.
A big blade that has become just slightly blunt will overload a belt drive and excessive slip will occur.
That slip wears out the belt/s and the pulley.
Oh and the school had to pay for the fire engine and crew that turned out because the little bit of smoke in the saw/stock room set off the fire alarm.
Twice.
The school finally got the maintenance technician in to replace the belts. Unfortunately he did not notice that 2 of the 4 pulley grooves had worn badly and effectively the 4 belt drive had reduced to a 2 belt drive and thus half torque and half power.
Prior to that they ignored my request for maintenance.
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Yes it is belt drive but it doesn't seem like the belt is slipping. And at least in the 1/2" MDF I was cutting yesterday, the RPM/rate-of-cut was smooth. I notice the vibration most when the blade is coming up to speed or slowing down and I can see the belt kind of bouncing around.
excessive belt slap/bounce would be an indication of too slack.
But too tight will damage bearings.
I remember when cars had a fan belt. The test was 1" of slack when a spring balance was attached to the longest run of belt. I used my finger to do the "pull test".
But too tight will damage bearings.
I remember when cars had a fan belt. The test was 1" of slack when a spring balance was attached to the longest run of belt. I used my finger to do the "pull test".
My saw has the same drive and yes, it will slap around a little when coming up to speed. As long as it smooths out at top speed, you should be fine.
EDIT: Removed the first line.
EDIT: Removed the first line.
I'm going to cut the panels for a voxel sub and I'll see how the cuts come out, how clean/straight/square.
yes, belts age, whether used or not, and a thorough cleaning of pulleys before installing new belt couldn't hurt either (brake cleaner and brass wire brush?)
i read a quick blurb by someone that they felt a link belt worked no better (in most applications) than a cogged belt.
Thoughts anyone? I'm still considering this an eval period so I'm trying to limit my investment in this saw at this point.
Thoughts anyone? I'm still considering this an eval period so I'm trying to limit my investment in this saw at this point.
I need some ideas for inexpensive table saw miter saw runners. The ones I made are 3/4 x 3/4 and with my 1/2" mdf that uses up a lot of my 2" max cut depth.
I'm heading to the 'big city' (Sacramento) so it's a good day to look for alternatives. (and I"m a sucker for 'big box' store 'finds'.
I'm heading to the 'big city' (Sacramento) so it's a good day to look for alternatives. (and I"m a sucker for 'big box' store 'finds'.
This is a tilt table saw? So is a shopsmith mkV, which I own. I hate it as a table saw. Tilt table is bogus, which is why they're all not like that.
A link belt might be worth a shot.
Then you don't have to worry about old belt memory.
I really like the link belts as they cut vibration a lot. Not cheap for the good ones though. HF has cheap ones, but I stick with the tried and true Powertwist.
I don't bother because everything else I do is so ****ing perfect, I don't have to worry about the belt.
What? Not perfect? Oh, did I mention I have a bunch of different sanders?
Call me old fashioned. 🙂
What? Not perfect? Oh, did I mention I have a bunch of different sanders?
Call me old fashioned. 🙂
Hey, if it's one of those triple belt Unisaws it's probably stable no matter what. My Powermatic contractors saw isn't in the same league.
I prefer the link on a single belt application, and especially on contractor type saws using the motor weight to tension the belt, because the splice on the ordinary belt generates vibration. The links disperse that energy, or move it to a high enough frequency that I don't perceive it as vibration. My unisaw has three very old conventional belts on it.
Hey Fred, is there any other kind, other than those silly direct drive units?using the motor weight to tension the belt,
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