Hi there,
I've blown the L7 component in my tuner, may someone check what kind and spec is this component ? is it a slef of 1 Ohm? L7 is located near the output plugs.
and if it may help...
"The TU-S33 is the evolution of the Sansui TU-217/TU-317/T-80 line of tuners"
And as I think of it, what kind of lights are used to lighten the ruler? They do not work.
I've blown the L7 component in my tuner, may someone check what kind and spec is this component ? is it a slef of 1 Ohm? L7 is located near the output plugs.
and if it may help...
"The TU-S33 is the evolution of the Sansui TU-217/TU-317/T-80 line of tuners"
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
And as I think of it, what kind of lights are used to lighten the ruler? They do not work.
It's a coil. Why do you think it is bad? You can't measure it with an ohm meter as a coil has no or very low DC resistance.
/Hugo
/Hugo
Well then, obviously it must be broken. 🙂
Maybe if you have the schematic, you will find an indication of what value to look for. A manual should list it.
Then, in the good diy spirit, you can wind a new coil.
/Hugo
Maybe if you have the schematic, you will find an indication of what value to look for. A manual should list it.
Then, in the good diy spirit, you can wind a new coil.
/Hugo
Hi Hugo,
In true DIY spirit, just unwind it and count the turns. Rewind using the same gauge wire and all should be good.
-Chris
In true DIY spirit, just unwind it and count the turns. Rewind using the same gauge wire and all should be good.
-Chris
I only have the lazy spirit, and do not have the manual... if someone has...
and I'll buy a new coil 😉
and I'll buy a new coil 😉
Hi Malefoda,
I wish I had the manual for you, but you may need to buy it. You may have some luck calling a warranty depot for Sansui and they may know.
The TU-217 used a low pass filter assembly, not just a coil. That model is no help at all.
-Chris
I wish I had the manual for you, but you may need to buy it. You may have some luck calling a warranty depot for Sansui and they may know.
The TU-217 used a low pass filter assembly, not just a coil. That model is no help at all.
-Chris
Ok guys, I've taken the dead parts (yes a C1815 is dead also...) in my old radio CB Midland... nad it works fine! (I've even found it works better 😉 ).
Thanks for your support, I'll go on changing parts as psu caps for better ones (if left from my CD53 upgrade...) and still ask if any reward if I change the main cord and wire the ground?
Thanks for your support, I'll go on changing parts as psu caps for better ones (if left from my CD53 upgrade...) and still ask if any reward if I change the main cord and wire the ground?
And also, I have to choose between 220V our 240V, but in France it's... 230! What may I choose? Any idea for the light of the front panel? Someone with the component to built the noise filter?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Small upgrade with spare parts from my CD53 upgrade:
power supply section get new and better 😉
If this can help...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Bypassed output caps: bad idea, a big noise when switch from nosignal to locked signal. Will put MKS2 1uf in place of the 0.33uf/100V electrolytics.
Final touch (if any end...)
So, I've removed the wires wich bypassed the output caps (C44R/L), changed from OEM 0.33µF/100V to Wima MKS2 1µF/50V, changed C42R/L, C36, C23 (not sure) from 1µF/50V to 1µF/50V Elna RJH, C38 from 470µF/16V to 470µF/25V RJH, and changed the strange NEC IC cap (under the PCB between two pins) from an old 1µF/50V to the left 1µF/50V RJH.
PSU upgard also, C5 from 470/16 to 1000/16 and C6 from 100/16 to 220/16 ZL Rubycon. Maybe will go for bigger 25V rated ones if any caps left.
Former PSU upgrade in previous posts.
No more " ploc " ( DC...) when mute/unmute with signal. Even less DC offset than before! The sound definitly improved a lot, much balanced than before. At least it pleases me, which is the point. =)
If this may help anyone one day...
So, I've removed the wires wich bypassed the output caps (C44R/L), changed from OEM 0.33µF/100V to Wima MKS2 1µF/50V, changed C42R/L, C36, C23 (not sure) from 1µF/50V to 1µF/50V Elna RJH, C38 from 470µF/16V to 470µF/25V RJH, and changed the strange NEC IC cap (under the PCB between two pins) from an old 1µF/50V to the left 1µF/50V RJH.
PSU upgard also, C5 from 470/16 to 1000/16 and C6 from 100/16 to 220/16 ZL Rubycon. Maybe will go for bigger 25V rated ones if any caps left.
Former PSU upgrade in previous posts.
No more " ploc " ( DC...) when mute/unmute with signal. Even less DC offset than before! The sound definitly improved a lot, much balanced than before. At least it pleases me, which is the point. =)
If this may help anyone one day...
Re: Final touch (if any end...)
Hi there again:
I finally foind the sound a bit diffrent, is it the MKS Wima at C44L/R that are bad here? My I find some gain goin' MKT or even MKP?
They were 0.33µF electrolytic, they are for DC offset. Any advice for removing my Wima 1µF MKS? I've in hand some 0.22 MKS4, but still MKS... some 2.2µF MKT or 3.3nF MKP. The value should be 0.33µF I guess... please your though about this.
If any of the ones I've in hand can be better than the MKS it's a free upgrade for me!
Thanks!
Malefoda said:
Hi there again:
I finally foind the sound a bit diffrent, is it the MKS Wima at C44L/R that are bad here? My I find some gain goin' MKT or even MKP?
They were 0.33µF electrolytic, they are for DC offset. Any advice for removing my Wima 1µF MKS? I've in hand some 0.22 MKS4, but still MKS... some 2.2µF MKT or 3.3nF MKP. The value should be 0.33µF I guess... please your though about this.
If any of the ones I've in hand can be better than the MKS it's a free upgrade for me!
Thanks!
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=102397&perpage=10&pagenumber=1
Will try MP3 ( Wima's not music!!) 0.33µf
Capacity does match and maybe the MP3 sounds better then MKS...
Will try MP3 ( Wima's not music!!) 0.33µf
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Capacity does match and maybe the MP3 sounds better then MKS...
I'm fitting cheap Audyn-Cap 0.33µF in, will tell you (were 0.47 63V Wimas... instead of OEM 0.33 'lytics).
There are some muting transistors at the output, how can I remove it, just remove? How does it work, I've to by pass some left open path there?
Q7R & Q7L and paired R?
Thanks
Matthieu
There are some muting transistors at the output, how can I remove it, just remove? How does it work, I've to by pass some left open path there?
Q7R & Q7L and paired R?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Thanks
Matthieu
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