Are you saying these 10" drivers will make a good mid-range? and compliment them with a 15" bass driver? and do a 3-way cross over?
Probably you'd get over with a new box .
I thought Ted ( ? ) was talkin about the mid-hi section , compared with the tweeter + waveguide I proposed , nevertheless ...........................an audition of the thing would clear the doubts 🙂
I thought Ted ( ? ) was talkin about the mid-hi section , compared with the tweeter + waveguide I proposed , nevertheless ...........................an audition of the thing would clear the doubts 🙂
Hmmm Okay... I do have a separate bass pair of bass-modules handly on a BR cabinet... They are 8" drivers with high Xmax and are the enclosures are tuned to 30Hz... May be I can use them straight off 🙂
It's no mistery that old plied surround ( coupled to a probably small motor -magnet assembly ) would produce much less bass than newer higher excursion drivers . Or that a simple silk dome tweeter flush mounted would allow a higher dispersion and brightness in the treble , compared to an old cone .
Also , consumer products such as those speakers with cheap chipboard 😱
would sell more ,being 3-way and big , to imitate the luxury brands .
That won't keep me to say that Sansui had set many good points in hi-fi ,mainly in the past and also nowadays .
So the point is : given this set of speakers , would there be a good way to improve the sound ? Extending bass capability of reproduction with a BR alignement ,and using newer 🙄 techniques to merge it with the treble
unit . I assume that the system sensibility is around 90 dB/w/m , so no problem . Using some bass cabs and shifting the Sansuis to low-mid and treble reproduction , that would be easily done with active crossovers and amplifiers ,but then there would be a problem with the two little cones ,which I don't think are much powerful .....
Also , consumer products such as those speakers with cheap chipboard 😱
would sell more ,being 3-way and big , to imitate the luxury brands .
That won't keep me to say that Sansui had set many good points in hi-fi ,mainly in the past and also nowadays .
So the point is : given this set of speakers , would there be a good way to improve the sound ? Extending bass capability of reproduction with a BR alignement ,and using newer 🙄 techniques to merge it with the treble
unit . I assume that the system sensibility is around 90 dB/w/m , so no problem . Using some bass cabs and shifting the Sansuis to low-mid and treble reproduction , that would be easily done with active crossovers and amplifiers ,but then there would be a problem with the two little cones ,which I don't think are much powerful .....
That's what I usually do with these older Japanese drivers and boxes, there are some small neo tweeters that could mount centred on the woofer or get a dome tweeter that crosses quite low
Reviving this thread as I stumbled upon another find which can be used with my Sansui drivers.
I just saw a Marine Ply custom made Tower cabinets (Simple Bass Reflux, which was used for Coral Flat-10 drivers). Lets call this Cabinet A
Dimensions of the Cabinet A are as follows.
H W D
40.75 x 14.5 x 17.25
This gives an interior volume of whopping 4.65072 cu ft (131.67 Ltrs).
The 10" driver hole is located 3" inches down from top and there is a 6" Port hole located 5" up from the bottom.
Port Hole is 6" Port Dia with 4.5" port length/depth
So simple online calculator tells me iwth 6" dia and 4.5 inches length
port seems to be tuned for 43Hz (fb).
Then there is our S-40 box which I need to destroy to salvage the 10" drivers(pics in the first few posts) out.
And the dimensions of original Sansui speaker are
H W D
40.75 x 14.5 x 17.25
And the volume comes only up to 1.60 cu ft (45.21 Ltrs) as its made of 1" particle board. It's sealed/acoustic suspension box so no port. But specs says 3db response 35 - 22kHz. Lets call this cabinet B
Now the obvious question
Do you think its worth to buy the Cabinet A(marine ply) larger box and try with my Sansui driver? I have 6" 8Oh coral mid drivers that nicely fit to close the 6" port hole on the Cabinet A. Or I can close it using 6" port blocker.
This will make it an acoustic suspension box with 4.65 cu ft. Since there is no port hole will it almost sound like the original Cabinet B?
Or Should I try using the driver with the 6" port hole which seems to be tuned for 43Hz? If there is a potential for this driver to sound okay in any of these configs, I will go ahead an buy the Cabinet A boxes. It will cost me around USD $80 for the pair of boxes(with no veneer). What do you guys think?
I just saw a Marine Ply custom made Tower cabinets (Simple Bass Reflux, which was used for Coral Flat-10 drivers). Lets call this Cabinet A
Dimensions of the Cabinet A are as follows.
H W D
40.75 x 14.5 x 17.25
This gives an interior volume of whopping 4.65072 cu ft (131.67 Ltrs).
The 10" driver hole is located 3" inches down from top and there is a 6" Port hole located 5" up from the bottom.
Port Hole is 6" Port Dia with 4.5" port length/depth
So simple online calculator tells me iwth 6" dia and 4.5 inches length
port seems to be tuned for 43Hz (fb).
Then there is our S-40 box which I need to destroy to salvage the 10" drivers(pics in the first few posts) out.
And the dimensions of original Sansui speaker are
H W D
40.75 x 14.5 x 17.25
And the volume comes only up to 1.60 cu ft (45.21 Ltrs) as its made of 1" particle board. It's sealed/acoustic suspension box so no port. But specs says 3db response 35 - 22kHz. Lets call this cabinet B
Now the obvious question
Do you think its worth to buy the Cabinet A(marine ply) larger box and try with my Sansui driver? I have 6" 8Oh coral mid drivers that nicely fit to close the 6" port hole on the Cabinet A. Or I can close it using 6" port blocker.
This will make it an acoustic suspension box with 4.65 cu ft. Since there is no port hole will it almost sound like the original Cabinet B?
Or Should I try using the driver with the 6" port hole which seems to be tuned for 43Hz? If there is a potential for this driver to sound okay in any of these configs, I will go ahead an buy the Cabinet A boxes. It will cost me around USD $80 for the pair of boxes(with no veneer). What do you guys think?
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Sealed back ofcourse. Otherwise I wouldn't try to use it. 🙂
Anyway I posted it in a hurry... Here is a cleaned up version...
Reviving this thread as, I stumbled upon another find, which could be used with my Sansui drivers.
I just saw a Marine Ply custom made Tower cabinets (Simple Bass Reflux, which was used for Coral Flat-10 drivers). Lets call this Cabinet A.
Dimensions of the Cabinet A are as follows.
H W D
40.75 x 14.5 x 17.25
This gives an interior volume of whopping 4.65072 cu ft (131.67 Ltrs).
The 10" driver hole is located 3" inches down from top. And there is a 6" Port hole, located 5" up from the bottom.
Port Hole is 6" Port Dia with 4.5" port length/depth
So a simple online calculator tells me, with 6" dia and 4.5 inches length; port seems to be tuned for 43Hz (fb).
Then there is our S-40 box, which needed to be destroyed, to salvage the 10" drivers(pics in the first few posts) out.
And the dimensions of original Sansui speaker are
H W D
40.75 x 14.5 x 17.25
The volume for this cabinet, thus comes only up to 1.60 cu ft (45.21 Ltrs); as its made of 1" particle board. It's sealed/acoustic suspension box so no port hole.
But specs says it goes pretty down. 3db response 35 - 22kHz. Lets call this cabinet B
Now the obvious question
Do you think its worth to buy the Cabinet A(marine ply) and try with my Sansui 10" drivers from Cabinet B? I have 6", 8Ohm coral mid drivers, that nicely fit to close the 6" port hole on the Cabinet A as well. But I am afraid since the port hole is located 20+ inches apart from the 10" driver, it may adversely affect the coherency right? So after all, trying to do a 3-way may be stupid that way. For higher extension I am planning to put a simple capacitor crossed over top mounted tweeter, cutting in fairly late, say beyond 10Khz. (assuming that Sansui driver can reach there, as it looked wide-range type) So may be, I can just close the port-hole using 6" port blocker.
This will make it an acoustic suspension box with 4.65 cu ft. Since there is no port hole, will it almost sound like the original Cabinet B?
Or Should I try using the driver with the 6" port hole which seems to be tuned for 43Hz? If there is a potential for this driver to sound okay in any of these configs, I will go ahead an buy the Cabinet A boxes. It will cost me around USD $80 for the pair of boxes(with no veneer). What do you guys think?
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Reflex should be properly tuned or as you say, you'd be best blocking the port. The larger cabinet may possibly vibrate more noticeably than the small.
You've listed the dimensions as the same for each cabinet, but the volumes as different so I'm assuming the original cab is smaller, so...the baffle frontage would be one difference worth considering but could mean a crossover tweak. Have you looked into the driver parameters to see if there is a reason there for this move? If there isn't I'd think room placement would be a more substantial improvement than looking for a larger box.
You've listed the dimensions as the same for each cabinet, but the volumes as different so I'm assuming the original cab is smaller, so...the baffle frontage would be one difference worth considering but could mean a crossover tweak. Have you looked into the driver parameters to see if there is a reason there for this move? If there isn't I'd think room placement would be a more substantial improvement than looking for a larger box.
OOps sorry. My mistake.
The original cabinet is much smaller as you see from the voulme of 45.21Ltrs.
Its
- Dimensions [ H x W x D ]: 25.12" x 12.60" x 13.23"
Reason for this move.
Original tweeters squeak, Electrolytic caps could be dried up. The box rattles. All my effort to open the cabinet failed, as the zillion screws sealing the back panel are stuck and even after drilling the head off, don't budge. now have to literally cut open the cabinet to access the drivers.
T/S parameters are not available to me... Besides I dont know the driver name/model to even search for the T/S params.
The original cabinet is much smaller as you see from the voulme of 45.21Ltrs.
Its
- Dimensions [ H x W x D ]: 25.12" x 12.60" x 13.23"
Reason for this move.
Original tweeters squeak, Electrolytic caps could be dried up. The box rattles. All my effort to open the cabinet failed, as the zillion screws sealing the back panel are stuck and even after drilling the head off, don't budge. now have to literally cut open the cabinet to access the drivers.
T/S parameters are not available to me... Besides I dont know the driver name/model to even search for the T/S params.
I've heard the Coral drivers are good.
I wouldn't mount a tweeter hanging off the cabinet, the diffraction can get a little wild.
I wouldn't mount a tweeter hanging off the cabinet, the diffraction can get a little wild.
No I have separate small cabinet for the tweeter... which can be mounted atop. Like they do with "bullet" tweeters, ie, provided, I can cross it high enough
Of course you know that with bullet tweeters, like this first image are horn based and the baffle has less influence with their generally narrower beam. On the other hand, conventional tweeters in pod form, like the second image are designed for quite the opposite effect with wide dispersion. The effect is quite different, one of which I don't like.
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