Thanks - I added to the confusion myself by accidentally writing "amp" when I meant "power supply board".
Just to clarify: I have two boards: 1. amplifier, 2. power supply.
I will connect wall power (110V - US) to the power supply AC input, no particular polarity, and no ground. I will connect the DC output of power supply to the amplifier board power input.
Just to clarify: I have two boards: 1. amplifier, 2. power supply.
I will connect wall power (110V - US) to the power supply AC input, no particular polarity, and no ground. I will connect the DC output of power supply to the amplifier board power input.
That reads much easier and is correct.
And if you put the power supply board in a metal box, then you connect the ground/earth from the ac socket with the box with a 3rd ground/earth wire. But a plastic/wood box is fine to use.
//edit: the metal box needs to be grounded for safety as the box is conductive and the earth leakage circuit breaker can switch the power off (i.e. when it gets wet)
And if you put the power supply board in a metal box, then you connect the ground/earth from the ac socket with the box with a 3rd ground/earth wire. But a plastic/wood box is fine to use.
//edit: the metal box needs to be grounded for safety as the box is conductive and the earth leakage circuit breaker can switch the power off (i.e. when it gets wet)
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PE is Protective Earth. I was assuming a ground fault circuit interrupter is standard. It makes electric appliances and units much safer. PE and ground are not the same. You described it correctly if you don't have a fault circuit interrupter. Sorry for the confusion.
1 That is correct.
2 Only if you got ie. a metal cage against radio interference within it.
No, that was correct. Again, sorry for the confusion.
Ok, first results: see the picture - that's how it temporarily looks for testing.
It plays. I have barely tried so cannot say much about quality yet. Seems fine for bluetooth, kinda weird with line-in but I used a really crappy input wire with a built-in unknown capacitor so it is hopefully not representative.
Potentiometers produce static noise when turned. But not too much, and no noise when not being adjusted, perhaps ok.
With bluetooth input using free Pandora account, quality felt good. I did notice some noise in the left channel but I was listening to really old ragtime records, the noise might have been on the record, and I barely turned it on for a few seconds.
With line input, I had to use a weird 3.5-to-RCA cable, which I think came with an old digital camera, and is for video not audio. It had a capacitor in the wire, probably not a good idea. I had to use that because in my wisdom I screwed in the speaker socket right against the 3.5 jack socket, and could not fit a regular cable in (the odd cable had an angled jack). I'll redo the connector tonight. With that odd cable, the sound from a CD seemed weirdly devoid of mid- and low-range, in-your-face sort of way, not subtle, so I kinda hope it is the connection because otherwise the line input is unuseable.
I'll test more and write something here during next few days in case anyone is interested.
It plays. I have barely tried so cannot say much about quality yet. Seems fine for bluetooth, kinda weird with line-in but I used a really crappy input wire with a built-in unknown capacitor so it is hopefully not representative.
Potentiometers produce static noise when turned. But not too much, and no noise when not being adjusted, perhaps ok.
With bluetooth input using free Pandora account, quality felt good. I did notice some noise in the left channel but I was listening to really old ragtime records, the noise might have been on the record, and I barely turned it on for a few seconds.
With line input, I had to use a weird 3.5-to-RCA cable, which I think came with an old digital camera, and is for video not audio. It had a capacitor in the wire, probably not a good idea. I had to use that because in my wisdom I screwed in the speaker socket right against the 3.5 jack socket, and could not fit a regular cable in (the odd cable had an angled jack). I'll redo the connector tonight. With that odd cable, the sound from a CD seemed weirdly devoid of mid- and low-range, in-your-face sort of way, not subtle, so I kinda hope it is the connection because otherwise the line input is unuseable.
I'll test more and write something here during next few days in case anyone is interested.
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You might want to move the right output pair a bit more apart. The amp IC quickly fries if that connects to something else (gnd, +, other amp channel outputs).
Mike, it is the line input that's on the left.
It looks screwy because a straight regular plug did not fit - I messed up the positioning of the speaker contacts, as you can see.
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