P.S. Next step: Curve tracer matched full semis BOM is the true perfectionist's delight.
😀
I had to do some work under the hood anyway (had forgotten to solder the input/output sockets
) so after going thru my junkyard after milder hotrodding resistors I found this solution pretty doable and satisfactory. At least for now...
Btw. The Vout socket. Is it for using the boards for other needs then the B1? I cant really find the use for it. Should I solder it?
I swear this last question about my transformer order should clear everything up. Here is the message I just received from the manufacturer (SumR).
"-with any transformer, as soon as you draw power through them there are losses. These are reflected in the difference between full-load and off-load. Some transformer suppliers hide their true design losses by simply providing off-load values."
"The transformer you have requested has a full-load of 15V @ 2.7A per secondary. The off-load (or no load) is 17V. I can change your primary to 120Vprimary. I can also design a transformer for you that does not exceed 15V. ( ie off-load 15V, full-load will be less than 15V), if that is what is required."
So is this OK? Do I want 15v/secondary when at full load? I just looked at a similar transformer at Antek and they advertise their transformers in off-load voltages, while SumR advertises his in full-load.
"-with any transformer, as soon as you draw power through them there are losses. These are reflected in the difference between full-load and off-load. Some transformer suppliers hide their true design losses by simply providing off-load values."
"The transformer you have requested has a full-load of 15V @ 2.7A per secondary. The off-load (or no load) is 17V. I can change your primary to 120Vprimary. I can also design a transformer for you that does not exceed 15V. ( ie off-load 15V, full-load will be less than 15V), if that is what is required."
So is this OK? Do I want 15v/secondary when at full load? I just looked at a similar transformer at Antek and they advertise their transformers in off-load voltages, while SumR advertises his in full-load.
Two questions Madisonroberts:
How much do you plan to Hotrod, ie what current setting resistors do you plan to use?
What are the voltage specs of your filter capacitors (the big snap-in electrolyts)
Best regards
Staffan
How much do you plan to Hotrod, ie what current setting resistors do you plan to use?
What are the voltage specs of your filter capacitors (the big snap-in electrolyts)
Best regards
Staffan
I plan on using 10R resistors, which i believe will give me 200mA current. I am using Mundorf 4700uf 40VDC caps. I might decide to go to the next level hot-rod at some point but it is not probable..
Well then I would say your ok with the stock one, cause the filtercaps is what can take damage. If he has a smaller one you could do with half the power rating. Imho.
Staffan
Staffan
Some were using that board only as a heavy shunt reg for mini amps or other circuits, that is the main reason it is there. Also you can use it to power subsystems but most people avoid the chance it may degrade the rail by some fed back noise or something. To be sure it takes a before & after test of course.
Yes, I was considering to power my aquarium pump with it also. But maybe I wont.
Seriously even the tinyest LED adds a little share of noice, so I dont think I would even try my luck.
Seriously even the tinyest LED adds a little share of noice, so I dont think I would even try my luck.
And you are going to deprive some poor aquatic species the luxury of a harmoniously powered pump...you are cruel to them now.😀
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Be nice to your fellow aquatic species. Use SSAPPS, Salas Simplistic Aquarium Pump Power Supply
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You can also add a digital potentiometer and an arduino and create a nice wave maker for your corals 😀
Ive been looking at the cards and it seems like a good to go for drilling next to the Wimas for bp-caps, like FT-1.
So what ya doing? Run the Wimas as is but add another pair of caps to run parallel with the Wimas?
Yes. Different kinds of caps have different strengths. The Wimas sitting there is an all rounder, not to big and bulky compared to capasistance and "speed". One way of having both is to combine two, one with the needed capasistance and one small and "fast" that can handle very high frequenzy transients.
Some say its makes a difference here, harvesting small noice from the diodes.
Problem is that the 18-22 nF russian teflon ones that are known good at that are pretty bulky. My plan was to glue them on the sides of the Wimas. Just a thought yet.
Staffan
Dunno, maybe for example tantals could do the trick to. Has anyone measured, simmed, tested or is it just a chance that subjectively does well?
Staffan
Staffan
Just remove the wimas and put the Russians in.
I did that with FT3s and never looked back. The difference on the entire audio spectrum is not subtle and not only on the high frequencies. It hits you in the face like a phonebook...
And that s even before they properly break in.
BTW the size is an issue. I soldered mine using solid wire that keeps them well stable in the air, and further strapped them to each other using tie-wrap for extra stability
I did that with FT3s and never looked back. The difference on the entire audio spectrum is not subtle and not only on the high frequencies. It hits you in the face like a phonebook...
And that s even before they properly break in.
BTW the size is an issue. I soldered mine using solid wire that keeps them well stable in the air, and further strapped them to each other using tie-wrap for extra stability
Yes I saw your badass decoupling caps. I'm sure it sounds great.
I'm trying to do the stuff step by step and I will start listening at the present setup, but nerds as we are we cant settle without thinking ahead on next steps, can we😎
The Wimas, as I understands it, is there to kill any eventual remaining AC component leftovers, rectifyer noice etc and soften any added noice from the 5 LEDs n series.
The FT-1s as we know them are excellent transparent transporters of small signal audio. So, the task is not necessary the same.
Thars why I'm "thinking high" here to maybe attract other philosophers on the subject😉.
Noice killing caps is not always the same as transparent audiosignal transporters.
Not said that I wont end up in your corner😉
best
Staffan
I'm trying to do the stuff step by step and I will start listening at the present setup, but nerds as we are we cant settle without thinking ahead on next steps, can we😎
The Wimas, as I understands it, is there to kill any eventual remaining AC component leftovers, rectifyer noice etc and soften any added noice from the 5 LEDs n series.
The FT-1s as we know them are excellent transparent transporters of small signal audio. So, the task is not necessary the same.
Thars why I'm "thinking high" here to maybe attract other philosophers on the subject😉.
Noice killing caps is not always the same as transparent audiosignal transporters.
Not said that I wont end up in your corner😉
best
Staffan