Hi, I purchased a set of six Russian FT-3, 0.1uf, 600v caps to bypass the coupling caps in my headphone amp (Mundorf M-Tube Caps 47uf). I have two questions:
1. how do I determine the input from the output end? &
2. I read somewhere that these FT-3's are more effective if you remove the outer aluminum casing; is this true?
thanks,
John
1. how do I determine the input from the output end? &
2. I read somewhere that these FT-3's are more effective if you remove the outer aluminum casing; is this true?
thanks,
John
Without removing the outer casing I have not been able to detect an outer foil with signal generator and scope. This method works for just about any other film cap with plastic outer casing, but not with these. As a result, I doubt there would be a performance issue regardless of which end you choose.
When in complete doubt ... and it seems this is the case here ... wire them in the circuit so that the printing on the cap reads left-to-right in the same direction as the signal flows through the cap.
Having said that I believe I read somewhere ... can't remember where ... that this would be the correct way for these caps. I use this exact cap myself, and that's how they're wired, and I seem to recall digging online for the answer.
They're used in a T-amp (Helder TA 2020 Mk III) bypassing 2.2uF Mundorf M-caps (the relatively inexpensive white with red lettering ones). Go figure.
In any case, the Mundorfs were decent but proved somewhat sibilant, esp female vocals; the Russians noticeably helped out there. Your versions are better quality Mundorfs so not sure if that's useful info or not, but there you go in any case.
Having said that I believe I read somewhere ... can't remember where ... that this would be the correct way for these caps. I use this exact cap myself, and that's how they're wired, and I seem to recall digging online for the answer.
They're used in a T-amp (Helder TA 2020 Mk III) bypassing 2.2uF Mundorf M-caps (the relatively inexpensive white with red lettering ones). Go figure.
In any case, the Mundorfs were decent but proved somewhat sibilant, esp female vocals; the Russians noticeably helped out there. Your versions are better quality Mundorfs so not sure if that's useful info or not, but there you go in any case.
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Alright, John & thanks.
The writing on these caps is not left to right, however, but starts at the top, written top down and so I assume the input, via your method, would be at the top, where the writing begins. However, one amp manufacturer uses them in exactly the opposite way, which confused me and so this is why I'm asking here.
And, Zigzag, thanks for your recommendation.
The writing on these caps is not left to right, however, but starts at the top, written top down and so I assume the input, via your method, would be at the top, where the writing begins. However, one amp manufacturer uses them in exactly the opposite way, which confused me and so this is why I'm asking here.
And, Zigzag, thanks for your recommendation.
The Mundorf M-Tube Caps are a very good sounding film cap.
I assume these are in the power supply stage as intended?
I would imagine any difference with the Teflons by-passing them will be a matter of personal preference. My guess is they will sound better as they are, although I'm not a fan of the Teflon sound, but I'll be very interested in how you find them after the by-pass 🙂
I assume these are in the power supply stage as intended?
I would imagine any difference with the Teflons by-passing them will be a matter of personal preference. My guess is they will sound better as they are, although I'm not a fan of the Teflon sound, but I'll be very interested in how you find them after the by-pass 🙂
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Data, no, the Mundorfs are coupling caps and not in the power supply. I know this can cause an out of phase, sound condition (smearing), but for how easy the install is, I'm thinking it's worth a try (can remove them just as easily).
Well, I must admit I didn't expect them to be doing coupling duties...
I'm no different to you, in that... I would have to give it a try and see/hear for myself 😉 and that is why I'm interested in how you find the resulting sound.
I'm no different to you, in that... I would have to give it a try and see/hear for myself 😉 and that is why I'm interested in how you find the resulting sound.
Damn it!
This got me to pull out a pair of .22uf FT3's and by-pass some Obligattos' in my phono *sigh*
We can't help ourselves, can we ?
This got me to pull out a pair of .22uf FT3's and by-pass some Obligattos' in my phono *sigh*
We can't help ourselves, can we ?
Well, mate.
I'm glad I tried the FT-3's in this position, worked really well with the cap mix.
I hope it goes well for you too 🙂
I'm glad I tried the FT-3's in this position, worked really well with the cap mix.
I hope it goes well for you too 🙂
Data, I'm glad to hear it! Probably it'll be a while, yet, before I get to it, but I'll let you know.
I was told these Russian teflon caps take a long time to break in, at least 200 hrs and so expect improvements, if they're new caps.
Enjoy!
I was told these Russian teflon caps take a long time to break in, at least 200 hrs and so expect improvements, if they're new caps.
Enjoy!
Well, there's still the solder joints, find they take some time, too. So, you noticed a significant improvement?
Yeah, It's a lot smoother with more transparency...slight increase in dynamics too, just sounds overall more natural 🙂
Granted, the Obligatto MPK's they are across are not exceptional, so the improvement is not a real surprise, but It's a little more than I expected.
Granted, the Obligatto MPK's they are across are not exceptional, so the improvement is not a real surprise, but It's a little more than I expected.
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Data, did the installation of the bypass caps and indeed, it makes a positive improvement in the sound, am not experiencing any phase shift, or bluring of the sound. In my case, the caps are new and so time should improve things, further. So far, so good!
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