Hi.
I'd like to try out my first multiway with these 2 drivers. I like how they look, and I have always wanted to try out the RS100, and the Dayton RS line in general. I'd like it to be as affordable as possible, so the crossover needs to be as simple as possible. I'd likely make a small floor stander, no more than 240mm wide, 1000mm tall, with the RS100 placed in an over-sized sealed compartment at the top (around 5.5 liters). I tried looking for established designs with this combination but hadn't found any. They'd be used for light music in a small-ish room. Most likely strings and some live recordings. They don't need to be ultra hi-fi, but hopefully good enough to put a smile on my face.
I have played around with PCD and response modeler to have an idea of what XO might work. Seems like a simple LR2 around 400-500 Hz might work; no severe impedance dips, reasonably mutes the woofer's peaks, phase easily lines up, reasonably valued parts (2-3.5mH inductors), and might work for bi-amplification as BSC if I want to (though I'm a bit fuzzy on where the appropriate baffle step frequency should be for bi-amping). Unless I modeled it wrong.
Is this a good project to start with?
I'd like to try out my first multiway with these 2 drivers. I like how they look, and I have always wanted to try out the RS100, and the Dayton RS line in general. I'd like it to be as affordable as possible, so the crossover needs to be as simple as possible. I'd likely make a small floor stander, no more than 240mm wide, 1000mm tall, with the RS100 placed in an over-sized sealed compartment at the top (around 5.5 liters). I tried looking for established designs with this combination but hadn't found any. They'd be used for light music in a small-ish room. Most likely strings and some live recordings. They don't need to be ultra hi-fi, but hopefully good enough to put a smile on my face.
I have played around with PCD and response modeler to have an idea of what XO might work. Seems like a simple LR2 around 400-500 Hz might work; no severe impedance dips, reasonably mutes the woofer's peaks, phase easily lines up, reasonably valued parts (2-3.5mH inductors), and might work for bi-amplification as BSC if I want to (though I'm a bit fuzzy on where the appropriate baffle step frequency should be for bi-amping). Unless I modeled it wrong.
Is this a good project to start with?
Post PCD sims of FR and IMP along with filter values. I reckon this might be a good project for the sake of fun, but I am afraid the lack of HF once you are off-axis will be substantial which is perfectly fine if you can accept that. Anyway, you can add a tweeter at a later time if you felt it was needed. The impedance will be on the lowish side, so the amp should be 4 ohm rated.
Common designs........
"I'd likely make a small floor stander, no more than 240mm wide, 1000mm tall"
In a 1.5cuft box, you could construct a nice 3-way using the 8" Dayton RS225SP-4A woofer $61 ( -F3~44Hz in ported 1.2cuft), 4" Dayton RS100-4 midrange $29, and 1" Dayton ND25FA-4 tweeter $17
Until Death Do Us Part..... 3-way (Can you price out this design in Malaysia?)
SB Acoustics
SB23NRXS45-4 woofer (-F3~34Hz in ported 1.5cuft) $92
SB15MFC30-4 midrange $52
SB25STC-C000-4 tweeter $33
You can always use tone controls to reduce bass to be neighbor friendly. Or plug the port.
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Popular 2-way designs often use a 6" midbass and robust 1" dome tweeter with a 1.7kHz crossover point. The cabinet size determines the tuning frequency.
"I'd likely make a small floor stander, no more than 240mm wide, 1000mm tall"
In a 1.5cuft box, you could construct a nice 3-way using the 8" Dayton RS225SP-4A woofer $61 ( -F3~44Hz in ported 1.2cuft), 4" Dayton RS100-4 midrange $29, and 1" Dayton ND25FA-4 tweeter $17
Until Death Do Us Part..... 3-way (Can you price out this design in Malaysia?)
SB Acoustics
SB23NRXS45-4 woofer (-F3~34Hz in ported 1.5cuft) $92
SB15MFC30-4 midrange $52
SB25STC-C000-4 tweeter $33
You can always use tone controls to reduce bass to be neighbor friendly. Or plug the port.
==========
Popular 2-way designs often use a 6" midbass and robust 1" dome tweeter with a 1.7kHz crossover point. The cabinet size determines the tuning frequency.
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I actually had first thought of a 3-way design, and yes with an RS225P, but the shipping, duties, and taxes wouldn't make the budget, not even close. With current (worsened) exchange rates ($1 = RM4.23 😱) my budget is around $650-700, with cabinet materials and parts. Speaker parts can't be much more than $300 for a stereo pair, and even this is pushing it. This assumes I got my XO parts values correct and wouldn't need extra parts or have the values higher. With shipping and taxes that becomes over $480 (15% import, 6% GST). The drivers alone for the SB 3-way are already over $340, and that could easily stretch to over $800 once taxes and shipping are included. I've also considered RS180 and DC28F, but then if I want to the RS100 I can use as a standalone FR, and the RS180 I can make a cabinet and sell off to car guys.
3/4" MDF and furniture grade plywood are not cheap here too; the DIY market here is pretty weak, so they put exorbitant prices for small orders. Ironically quality hard woods are more reasonably priced for small orders, but as you know they can be difficult to work with.
However I can cut cost without much of a sacrifice in sound quality, I'll do it (I might even go NPE for "educational" purposes). Not unlike some commercial speakers, right? 😛
The lowest impedance is around 1kHz, which is about the Re of the RS100.
LP = 3.5mH (0.4 ohm), 33uF.
HP = 2.0mH (1.06 ohm), 68uF.
For small room usage, I'd most probably be pretty much on axis. But that 15kHz breakup peak might fix itself off axis.
Baffle step and impedance has been modeled using Response modeler. In a room and against the wall that might look better. The frequency chart of the woofer is obviously from PE, but the ZMA is modified for the cabinet I'd put them in. There's that single peak from the woofer, but it is at -30dB and pretty narrow so it might not be a problem.
Then again, I could be way off.
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Typical Dayton RS100p-4 review: "Fantastic little drivers! They look really smart and play well. Not enough top end for true full ranger though. Tweeter is a must. Midrange is palpable and violins sound superb with appropriate texture and richness. Better than the aluminum cousin. They are not 4" drivers, they are 3 1/2" max."
I better appreciate your purchase problems, and hope you can find clever solutions to acquire good drivers within your price range, ... maybe re-purpose used construction/shipping wood into "basic black" speaker boxes.
I better appreciate your purchase problems, and hope you can find clever solutions to acquire good drivers within your price range, ... maybe re-purpose used construction/shipping wood into "basic black" speaker boxes.
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I appreciate the pointers. Yeah we're not doing so hot economically. Also it doesn't help that "DIY audio" here is synonymous with car audio so we basically get zero hi-fi stuff.
An RS100P-4 looks like it can be very easy to integrate as a midrange. Maybe next year, along with a good tweeter.
A metal woofer, a paper midrange, a soft tweeter, sounds like a great combination.
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