Has anyone built an mtm using the rs 150 with a 1st order series x-over? I'm thinking of crossing over at 2100 hz to the vifa D27 tg 35 (which has an fz of 650)
Thanks.
Thanks.
You're definitely going to want to "audition" this one before you glue those crossover parts down.
I'm not saying a series XO can't be done with the RS150, I just haven't seen one.
But a 1st order XO is really only ideal for drivers that have a REALLY flat response. Take a look at drivers like the Vifa, Peerless, and Seas poly cones. For instance, something like the Vifa P13 would be the IDEAL woofer for a 1st order XO:
http://www.madisound.com/catalog/PDF/vifa/p13wh-00-08e.pdf
The Vifa tweeter you have chosen is good for a 1st order. As Andy G would say: "low Fs and bulletproof."
I have only done with design with the RS150, and it does sound really good. But I was only able to cross it about 1800, due to the massive cone breakup of the aluminum cone. I couldn't really get it any higher without some sort of notch trickery like Lou C did on his Ruby design.
Anyway, I don't think I have the guts to do a series XO with the RS drivers... if I somehow figured it out, it'd be at least a 2nd or 3rd order.
Good news is, if you decide to go parallel, that tweeter will probably cooperate.
I'm not saying a series XO can't be done with the RS150, I just haven't seen one.
But a 1st order XO is really only ideal for drivers that have a REALLY flat response. Take a look at drivers like the Vifa, Peerless, and Seas poly cones. For instance, something like the Vifa P13 would be the IDEAL woofer for a 1st order XO:
http://www.madisound.com/catalog/PDF/vifa/p13wh-00-08e.pdf
The Vifa tweeter you have chosen is good for a 1st order. As Andy G would say: "low Fs and bulletproof."
I have only done with design with the RS150, and it does sound really good. But I was only able to cross it about 1800, due to the massive cone breakup of the aluminum cone. I couldn't really get it any higher without some sort of notch trickery like Lou C did on his Ruby design.
Anyway, I don't think I have the guts to do a series XO with the RS drivers... if I somehow figured it out, it'd be at least a 2nd or 3rd order.
Good news is, if you decide to go parallel, that tweeter will probably cooperate.
renisnceman said:Has anyone built an mtm using the rs 150 with a 1st order series x-over? I'm thinking of crossing over at 2100 hz to the vifa D27 tg 35 (which has an fz of 650)
Thanks.
I've looked at that driver's response, and even I would not try a series x-o on it !!! 😱
I strongly recommend another type of x-o.

rs 150 mtm series x-over
Thanks for the feedback. I built an mtm with the P13 and 1st order series. I'm looking for a little bit more bass in a 1 cu. ft cabinet- any recommendations on 6.5" woofers that have smoother response and won't break the bank?
Thanks.
Thanks for the feedback. I built an mtm with the P13 and 1st order series. I'm looking for a little bit more bass in a 1 cu. ft cabinet- any recommendations on 6.5" woofers that have smoother response and won't break the bank?
Thanks.
I understand that the P13 MTM would not have enough bass. 😀
Its hard for me to comment on driver prices because I'm over here, but some of the Peerless drivers are very usable with series x-o.
Look for poly or paper cones if you want to use low order x-o or look at some of the designs at HTGuide or PE showcase which have the x-o designed for you. They are sometimes quite budget minded.
Its hard for me to comment on driver prices because I'm over here, but some of the Peerless drivers are very usable with series x-o.
Look for poly or paper cones if you want to use low order x-o or look at some of the designs at HTGuide or PE showcase which have the x-o designed for you. They are sometimes quite budget minded.
Re: rs 150 mtm series x-over
Hi,
Convert your MTM to 1st order series top M and T.
Use the bottom M as a 0.5way driver for BSC.
You will need to pad back the tweeter.
Guaranteed more bass, but less mid/treble sensitivity.
Might be too much bass if too near walls.
A first order series has difficulties with BSC and hence bass.
The smoothest 6.5" I've seen is the Seas P18RNXP.
🙂/sreten.
renisnceman said:Thanks for the feedback. I built an mtm with the P13 and 1st order series. I'm looking for a little bit more bass in a 1 cu. ft cabinet- any recommendations on 6.5" woofers that have smoother response and won't break the bank?
Thanks.
Hi,
Convert your MTM to 1st order series top M and T.
Use the bottom M as a 0.5way driver for BSC.
You will need to pad back the tweeter.
Guaranteed more bass, but less mid/treble sensitivity.
Might be too much bass if too near walls.
A first order series has difficulties with BSC and hence bass.
The smoothest 6.5" I've seen is the Seas P18RNXP.
🙂/sreten.
Re: Re: rs 150 mtm series x-over
yeah, but I still think he will struggle getting decent bass out of the P13.
What he could do is convert it to something like Blackwood (but not open back).. Find a reasonably sensitive bass driver and use the 3 way cascade series. http://members.optusnet.com.au/~gradds55/SeriesXO/series_cross-overs8a.htm
Again , I can't help much with drivers, although I have been thinking of trying one of the Peerless sds 10". They look like they would work with a low order x-o.
thankfully I wasn't able to get that Seas woofer over here, otherwise that would have been yet another speaker I would have had to build !
sreten said:
Hi,
Convert your MTM to 1st order series top M and T.
Use the bottom M as a 0.5way driver for BSC.
You will need to pad back the tweeter.
Guaranteed more bass, but less mid/treble sensitivity.
Might be too much bass if too near walls.
A first order series has difficulties with BSC and hence bass.
The smoothest 6.5" I've seen is the Seas P18RNXP.
🙂/sreten.
yeah, but I still think he will struggle getting decent bass out of the P13.
What he could do is convert it to something like Blackwood (but not open back).. Find a reasonably sensitive bass driver and use the 3 way cascade series. http://members.optusnet.com.au/~gradds55/SeriesXO/series_cross-overs8a.htm
Again , I can't help much with drivers, although I have been thinking of trying one of the Peerless sds 10". They look like they would work with a low order x-o.
thankfully I wasn't able to get that Seas woofer over here, otherwise that would have been yet another speaker I would have had to build !

Thanks for all of your feedback. I"ll probably go ahead and build Lou's RS 150 design instead- looks like the break up node is fairly well supressed with his minimal x-over.
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