Can anyone recommend a nice, easy to use router that a new woodworker like myself could use well? I'll be getting it from Lowes or Home Depot, more than likely. I have plans to build small and large speakers (line array) and I'm sure I'll need a routing table to go along with it for the round overs, or not if you guys think otherwise.
Also, have any bits in mind that I'll need? I'd like to cut out the holes for the speakers (some of the speakers I have, have a mounting ring around them so I'll need to recess a second circle as well), be able to do roundovers and flanges(sp) or flares for when I make ports etc...
Thanks! I'm a true newbie! I just got my first table saw last week heh!
Also, have any bits in mind that I'll need? I'd like to cut out the holes for the speakers (some of the speakers I have, have a mounting ring around them so I'll need to recess a second circle as well), be able to do roundovers and flanges(sp) or flares for when I make ports etc...
Thanks! I'm a true newbie! I just got my first table saw last week heh!
I like the ryobi plunge router from HD and the Jasper circle jig from PartsExpress. Add to that a 1/4" straight router bit for cutting and rabbeting the driver openings and a roundover bit of your desired radius and your set.
Nearly foolproof for a $200 investment. Some people make their own circle cutting jig out of plexiglass which will surely save you money but is ultimately more work.
Nearly foolproof for a $200 investment. Some people make their own circle cutting jig out of plexiglass which will surely save you money but is ultimately more work.
Porter Cable or Ryobi -- I think both are at Home Depot -- invest in quality carbide cutting tools -- they make a huge difference
mazeroth said:
By "regular router" I think you mean a fixed-base router. It is inherently less flexible but less expensive than the plunge router, which you can "plunge" into the wood and retract after it's done. Yet nearly all fixed-base routers can be used on a router table; only some plunge routers can be used this way.
There's also the D-handle router, which is less common.
As for brands, I say consider Porter Cable and Bosch. They both have wide compatibility with various jigs, etc. Bosch routers are the quietest ones (and with the least vibration) on the market.
I have a non-plunge Bosch router and routinely cut through thick aluminum with it (up to 1" thick). I believe that it is a great product, and would easily get another. Oh yeah, get a 1/2" router. They have more power, and do a better job. Also 1/2" router bits are stronger than 1/4" bits.
Carbide bits will cut damn near anything you put in their way! I Have cut, wood, fiberglass, drywall, aluminum, brass, plexiglas, granite, and a few nails (steel) and have never had an issue.
Carbide bits will cut damn near anything you put in their way! I Have cut, wood, fiberglass, drywall, aluminum, brass, plexiglas, granite, and a few nails (steel) and have never had an issue.
urapnes, LOVE the name LoL!
Thanks for all the replies! Going to do some more research first thing in the morning and hopefully have one by the end of the weekend.
Also, my Dad had a few HUGE oak trees cut down and had them taken to the lumber yard to be cut. In his barn, I swear, are 200+ oak boards that are about 8-16" wide, 1-1.5" thick and 10+ ft. long each. They need planed and he said I could have them if I wanted them. What kind of planer would I need for this job and what would you do with all the damn wood? LoL! I was wondering if I could incorporate it into building speakers and if so maybe selling some on the side to pay for my tools.
Thanks for all the replies! Going to do some more research first thing in the morning and hopefully have one by the end of the weekend.
Also, my Dad had a few HUGE oak trees cut down and had them taken to the lumber yard to be cut. In his barn, I swear, are 200+ oak boards that are about 8-16" wide, 1-1.5" thick and 10+ ft. long each. They need planed and he said I could have them if I wanted them. What kind of planer would I need for this job and what would you do with all the damn wood? LoL! I was wondering if I could incorporate it into building speakers and if so maybe selling some on the side to pay for my tools.
THats a lot of lumber!
I'd be tempted to have a local shop plane the material to your specs, and then spend teh money that you would have spent on a planer and get a jointer. Your gonna need it to butt all those pieces together.
I'd be tempted to have a local shop plane the material to your specs, and then spend teh money that you would have spent on a planer and get a jointer. Your gonna need it to butt all those pieces together.
Well, since nobody has mentioned it yet, I will. If I were buying a router today I would buy one of the models that actually comes with both a fixed base and a plunge base in the same bundle. I believe Ryobi has one that is only $CDN160 or so.
Check the Lowes clearance table frequently. I just picked up a Makita RF1101 combo (fixed & plunge) for $185. Talk to the guy running the tool area. A 2 Hp with variable speed would be an excellent choice. Bosch, Makita, Porter Cable, Dewalt, Milwaukee, Hitachi, and Freud all make very capable routers. Your choice should use both 1/2" and 1/4" bits. Routers are noisy and potentially scary. Ultra cheapies can burn out quickly, shatter bits, vibrate badly, dull bits quickly etc. By the time you buy a few carbide bits any "savings" are quickly consumed.
Thanks for the advice, Lou.
What part of Arizona are you in, anyhow? My parents just bought a house in Prescott Valley and my fiancee and I are looking into moving out there as well.
What part of Arizona are you in, anyhow? My parents just bought a house in Prescott Valley and my fiancee and I are looking into moving out there as well.
The problem with doing projects is that you want to do a good
job but many times you don't want to invest in good tools.
Then you realize the cheaper tools can't do the job or the
quality is poor.
I've used cheap routers and bits and the job was scrapped.
I ended up buying the 3 horse router and good whiteside
router bits and all the jobs have worked out well. I can't
recall scrapping any cuts. /heh
I just spent $130 on a 1.5" roundover bit and did my flared
ports freehand because it cut layers of MDF like butter.
I'm almost positive that this task would be impossible to get
great results with a $50 router and $20 bit. 🙂
Variable speed routers are almost a must so you can bring
the speed down for larger bits. Or you can buy a variable
speed module for a standard router.
highly recommended;
www.routerbits.com
job but many times you don't want to invest in good tools.
Then you realize the cheaper tools can't do the job or the
quality is poor.
I've used cheap routers and bits and the job was scrapped.
I ended up buying the 3 horse router and good whiteside
router bits and all the jobs have worked out well. I can't
recall scrapping any cuts. /heh
I just spent $130 on a 1.5" roundover bit and did my flared
ports freehand because it cut layers of MDF like butter.
I'm almost positive that this task would be impossible to get
great results with a $50 router and $20 bit. 🙂
Variable speed routers are almost a must so you can bring
the speed down for larger bits. Or you can buy a variable
speed module for a standard router.
highly recommended;
www.routerbits.com
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=34151
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/features/plungerouters.0803.pdf
I have not bought one yet, but I will very soon + the PE jig. I am doing 6 15" woofers in my car and this will be a godsend.
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/features/plungerouters.0803.pdf
I have not bought one yet, but I will very soon + the PE jig. I am doing 6 15" woofers in my car and this will be a godsend.
I bought the Ryobi plunge router at Home Depot, and have been very happy with it. It will accept both 1/4" and 1/2" bits, is adjustable speed, and is very comfortable to use. I did have to replace the power switch in mine, but this was a minor inconveniece. I routinely use this router for routing driver cutouts and recesses in MDF, and I recently attatched it to a portable router table and routed out some custom baseboard for my remodeled living room. If you are getting this to use for hobby level projects or for around-the-house duties, you can't go wrong. If you are getting it to do commercial work I would suggest getting something a bit beefier. I hope this helps.
Cheers,
Zach
Cheers,
Zach
"I routinely use this router for routing driver cutouts and recesses in MDF"
Zach, I will be using the router probably exclusively to do these 2 tasks, along with rounding over, that's it. I have seen the router guide thingy from Parts Express to cut out different size circles but really didn't want to have to spend another $45 on it. Is there an effective way to cut out holes and recesses without buying something extra? To be quite honest with you guys, I only know 50% how a router works LoL! Truthfully. To do a recess cut and not all the way through do you have to make a few passes at different radiuses, or do they make a bit for it?
Thanks!
Zach, I will be using the router probably exclusively to do these 2 tasks, along with rounding over, that's it. I have seen the router guide thingy from Parts Express to cut out different size circles but really didn't want to have to spend another $45 on it. Is there an effective way to cut out holes and recesses without buying something extra? To be quite honest with you guys, I only know 50% how a router works LoL! Truthfully. To do a recess cut and not all the way through do you have to make a few passes at different radiuses, or do they make a bit for it?
Thanks!
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