Has anyone ever seen a specialty router bit for routing the inset edge on a speaker? (So that it will lay flush with the baffle).
I've made circle jigs and a straight or mortise bit to do it in the past, but it sure would be nice if something existed that has a roller on the bottom like a trim bit.
Obviously the roller would have to be a smaller diameter than the bit itself so the bit would cut into the material.
Such an animal exist?
Thanks.
I've made circle jigs and a straight or mortise bit to do it in the past, but it sure would be nice if something existed that has a roller on the bottom like a trim bit.
Obviously the roller would have to be a smaller diameter than the bit itself so the bit would cut into the material.
Such an animal exist?
Thanks.
The guide bearings on many (not all) rabbeting, flush-trim, and slot bits can be exchanged for a bearing with larger or smaller O.D. This allows you to cut a wider or narrower "shelf" as needed. Some of the router-bit vendors will even sell a kit containing several bearing sizes
(My apologies if you already know this; folks who are new to routers may find it useful if they stumble across this thread.)
Dale
(My apologies if you already know this; folks who are new to routers may find it useful if they stumble across this thread.)
Dale
Backwards
Use a micro-fence or equivalent circle jig with your router.
Cut a wide, flat groove first (multi-pass), then cut the hole last (deeper cut).
Circle Jig Attachment Use w/ Edge-Guide - CJA - Micro Fence -
Regards,
WHG
Has anyone ever seen a specialty router bit for routing the inset edge on a speaker? (So that it will lay flush with the baffle).
I've made circle jigs and a straight or mortise bit to do it in the past, but it sure would be nice if something existed that has a roller on the bottom like a trim bit.
Obviously the roller would have to be a smaller diameter than the bit itself so the bit would cut into the material.
Such an animal exist?
Thanks.
Use a micro-fence or equivalent circle jig with your router.
Cut a wide, flat groove first (multi-pass), then cut the hole last (deeper cut).
Circle Jig Attachment Use w/ Edge-Guide - CJA - Micro Fence -
Regards,
WHG
Use a micro-fence or equivalent circle jig with your router.
Cut a wide, flat groove first (multi-pass), then cut the hole last (deeper cut).
Circle Jig Attachment Use w/ Edge-Guide - CJA - Micro Fence -
Regards,
WHG
I have built many speakers, and this is the best method in my opinion.
Remember you'll need ~4" diameter (or smaller) for tweeters. That puts the center pin under the baseplate of many routers. Some adaptation is required.
Depending on what router you have, you should be able to make a separate base plate for your router if you need a smaller diamater cut. I've done it both for my Milwaukee and a craftman router and it works great. Then you can just drill holes in your "new" baseplate and use a small drill bit or a nail for a center pin. A piece of plywood or MDF works great for a baseplate ..
I use a Jasper circle jig. Works great, no problem making holes for tweeters with diameter smaller than base plate. Jasper Circle Jigs
Nobody seems to have noticed, but the cutter bit I linked to in message #5 of this thread will cut up to a 3/8" wide lip up to 1/4" deep around an existing hole. Just FYI
Doc
Doc
Trouble is, you need to cut a circle first. If you are going to use a router, you will need some kind of circle cutting jig. If you use a jig for the hole, you can use it for the recess too.
The most critical cut is for the rebate for the outer edge of the speaker, as too big a cut leaves a gap around the speaker. Cut this first, and reference the hole to that critical cut. Doing it the other way (cut hole then rebate with a rabbit bit) leaves more room for mistakes (in my opinion).
In short, if you buy or make a circle jig, you won't need a rebate or rabbit bit.
Cheers,
Chris
The most critical cut is for the rebate for the outer edge of the speaker, as too big a cut leaves a gap around the speaker. Cut this first, and reference the hole to that critical cut. Doing it the other way (cut hole then rebate with a rabbit bit) leaves more room for mistakes (in my opinion).
In short, if you buy or make a circle jig, you won't need a rebate or rabbit bit.
Cheers,
Chris
Has anybody tried stacking these slot cutters on top of a straight, or rabbett, bit - so you could cut both the aperture and the lip in a single pass?
Dale
I picked up one of these to $50 bucks at a woodworking show. What’s nice about all the bearings is the wide range of cuts you can make.
http://www.woodline.com/p-2493-14pc-rabbeting-bit-set.aspx
They also have a full page of other rabbeting bits
So say you cut a speaker hole too small OR it’s a retrofit, you can use one of the larger bearings and make the hole slightly bigger, you’ll have to leave a lip at the bottom of the hole (or you’ll have a real mess), but the lip can be removed with a flush cut bit (bearing on the top).
http://www.woodline.com/p-2493-14pc-rabbeting-bit-set.aspx
They also have a full page of other rabbeting bits
So say you cut a speaker hole too small OR it’s a retrofit, you can use one of the larger bearings and make the hole slightly bigger, you’ll have to leave a lip at the bottom of the hole (or you’ll have a real mess), but the lip can be removed with a flush cut bit (bearing on the top).
Has anyone ever seen a specialty router bit for routing the inset edge on a speaker? (So that it will lay flush with the baffle).
I've made circle jigs and a straight or mortise bit to do it in the past, but it sure would be nice if something existed that has a roller on the bottom like a trim bit.
Obviously the roller would have to be a smaller diameter than the bit itself so the bit would cut into the material.
Such an animal exist?
Thanks.
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