hello and greetings
i am a proud owner of rotel 1062 and i have a question for you: my brother connected 4 8 Ohm speakers on amp. i wasn't at home. when i came back i immediately unplugged two of them and now is the left channel dead. i get no sound from it. could you maybe tell me what went bad there? it worked like that maybe 2 hours (with 4 speakers). also, with it would be nice to know how hard would it be to repair the thing
best regards
petar markovic
i am a proud owner of rotel 1062 and i have a question for you: my brother connected 4 8 Ohm speakers on amp. i wasn't at home. when i came back i immediately unplugged two of them and now is the left channel dead. i get no sound from it. could you maybe tell me what went bad there? it worked like that maybe 2 hours (with 4 speakers). also, with it would be nice to know how hard would it be to repair the thing
best regards
petar markovic
Either a fuse is blown, and/or the output transistors have suffered an overload and kill, and maybe even drivertransistors etc.
If you have no experience at all, then proceed very carefully.
Unplug it from mains voltage and leave it for 10 minutes, then remove the lid and check the fuses ( marked red).
If any of them has no connection (measured with a 10€ digital multimeter in ohms) or if you can visually see that the wire inside is broken, then replace the fuse and see if it works or if it blows again immediately.
Replace with the same type - there is an Ampere-rating and either an 'F' for fast blow or 'T' for slow-blow.
If it blows the fuse again immidiately, it needs to be checked by a technician with experience.
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i contacted rotel and a very nice and helpful dude explained it to me. i found the broken fuse (it's the speaker fues, on the right, the wire inside is broken). now a quick question:i found the same fuses (the dude gave me specifications), only there are glass nd ceramic fuses with same specs. does it matter if they are glass or ceramic?
Yes, Ceramic fuses act differently to the specified type and you wont find them in domestic electronic gear. You find them in appliances like Microwave ovens, kettles, cookers etc. We may think that more expensive =better but not here. Use standard, plain, cheap, wire-in-glass (fast-blow types). You can clearly see the difference here:
In other words, as Enrik stated, fit the original type. You may be confused by terms like 3AG or M205 but these are sizes, not type specification
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
In other words, as Enrik stated, fit the original type. You may be confused by terms like 3AG or M205 but these are sizes, not type specification
Actualy it s the most logical as fast ones will blow uselessly, besides seems to me that slow ones will heat less on peaks, with less amplitude distorsion as a result.
...as i have read on the internet, T stands for slow-blow.
Or - you could also read exactly that in my first reply
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