Right, and I agree. It is the concept that I was trying to express...... Most PCB traces are crap with a few exceptions.
In this case, I believe that the traces are feeding a headphone output, and if so, you can relax a little bit.
In this case, I believe that the traces are feeding a headphone output, and if so, you can relax a little bit.
For this application, a shorting switch (MBB) is not advised.
Although it made connection more complex, to prevent back EMF, a MBB rotary switch with one position in between and add a resistor there can avoid open circuit if switching output while the amplifier is powered on.
The output transformers have taps for 8 ohm, 32 ohm, and 68 ohm. Each set of wires, comes off the transformer(s), to the switch, then, to a headphone jack. The 8 ohm tap does run directly to speaker binding post, as well.
I could be wrong, but I think it is not good to leave any OPT winding unloaded, so is better to add a resistor across those inactive windings.
This is the switch, I have…. The problem with it, is the size. It’s just too small for me to solder. My skills aren’t good enough…
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Grayhill/50KS36-01-2-03S?qs=ls7QRyWmRk77q6KCuLZrOA==
IMO, the switch you got is 2P3T and only rated 200mA, is good for line signal switching, not even suitable for headphones.
BTW, You need a high current rating 6P3T rotary switch at least 2A or more, and it will be very hard to obtain and expensive.
My suggestion is use a 2P2T switch to select speaker/headphones. And use a 4P3T switch for 32/68Ω headphones selector, the Lorlin recommended by @jonsnell-electronic rated at 1A (CK1592) should be suitable for headphone switching.
Above circuit is based on three separate output windings, dummy loading resistors are there for safely switching outputs while the amplifier is powered on to avoid open circuit that might damage the OPT.
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