I need to go through the set up procedure on my old Roksan Xerxes but can't see how the three rubber suspension blobs are meant to fit together. The set up manual shows the big decoupling blob with another washer and grommet assembly on top of that. It looks like the washer should be below the grommet but that was not true for the two blobs at the front of my deck - the washer was on the top. There is also a nut on the top section but it is difficult to see how to set it up such that the top grommet is any part of the suspension isolation system if the top of the screw thread gets in contact with the top of the plinth. And no, I'm not rushing out to spend 200 quid on the upgraded versions.
Yes, that's the diagram I have. I assume that the nut is inside that top grommet, but it is just a friction fit that could easily be dislodged with just light pressure. Having the nut attached to the lower washer would make sense to stop that happening, but then adjusting the screw on the bottom of the blob would also screw into the nut, so you wouldn't change the height until the top screw thread was through the top of the grommet, negating any isolation effect. Same case for the two at the front which are upside down. The nut is screwed tight against the blob, the grommet sits over it, washer after that, screw thread poking out of the top and contacting the top plinth directly. So the grommet seems pointless in that configuration. 😕
I'll have a look at mine tonight once the kids are in bed. I belive the nut just holds the washer up to give a wibbly contact the plinth.
I suppose it could just be for lateral location of the top thread in the middle of the round cutout in the top plinth. Having the top thread in contact with the plinth is actually intentional, and all the isolation is done in just the blob.
Ok took mine apart and bearing in mind I have 1999 vintage upgrade blobs (which are different to the TMS ones) and all are the same way up. These have a plastic pip on the top into which the washer/gromet fit. And the gromets have glued themselves to the plinth! So no direct contact to the theaded part.
I wonder if having the top of the blobs stuck laterally is one of the things that is causing your problems with belt tension. I've never had an issue with it as I just lift the top plinth off the blobs and slightly reposition it to change the distance between the motor and inner drive platter.
Having said "I've never had an issue", I now realise after pulling the deck apart completely, the Hi-Fi gods will smite me with a whole bunch of set up issues, and I'll be tearing my hair out with various motor pulley height and angle problems.
For my ancient blobs I've decided to try a third configuration, different to the two I found when it was dismantled. Main isolation blob, nut tightened onto top thread, and then locating grommet with washer side down. That still gives enough adjustment to get up to the 2mm clearance of the lip of the outer case.
Having said "I've never had an issue", I now realise after pulling the deck apart completely, the Hi-Fi gods will smite me with a whole bunch of set up issues, and I'll be tearing my hair out with various motor pulley height and angle problems.
For my ancient blobs I've decided to try a third configuration, different to the two I found when it was dismantled. Main isolation blob, nut tightened onto top thread, and then locating grommet with washer side down. That still gives enough adjustment to get up to the 2mm clearance of the lip of the outer case.
