Thanks for your support lol
It seems the JCCON brand is Ali and eBay only. No website. No sign of them being used commercially. They are surely a re-branded item, sold for the hobby market. Two tiers, with little crossover of values, suggests these audio one's might be better than the basic.
I'm still clearing a space to start stripping. Pics should follow soon.
It seems the JCCON brand is Ali and eBay only. No website. No sign of them being used commercially. They are surely a re-branded item, sold for the hobby market. Two tiers, with little crossover of values, suggests these audio one's might be better than the basic.
I'm still clearing a space to start stripping. Pics should follow soon.
I bought the cheap scope. Then the next day another appeared, £10 more for 120mhz using 500 million samples per second.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005368374529.html
NVM my 10mhz 48MS/s is a known brand.
I picked up a bluetooth board, with external aerial. It's own PSU and a blue LED for the amps selection indicator fascia board.
£13 board https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002723018618.html
Uses a Qualcomm https://www.qualcomm.com/products/internet-of-things/consumer/audio/qcc30xx-series/qcc3034
Looks to have dsp but I have no idea how I would access that. 24bits, aptx hd bt5
I once tried a £3 board, which seemed to be for telephony only. I later used one about £7 which was fit for the basic purpose, but I forget which. I hope this one is okay. I felt an external aerial important, after trials with both internal and external one's before. I also remembered a 90 degree sma elbow.
This puts me on hold for a week, so I'm looking at proper caps again. Something between the meanwell looking 12v 1a psu and bt board perhaps. With others coming back under the microscope.
My MSpaint skills are not going well, but here as a couple of the board from below. For completeness.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005368374529.html
NVM my 10mhz 48MS/s is a known brand.
I picked up a bluetooth board, with external aerial. It's own PSU and a blue LED for the amps selection indicator fascia board.
£13 board https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002723018618.html
Uses a Qualcomm https://www.qualcomm.com/products/internet-of-things/consumer/audio/qcc30xx-series/qcc3034
Looks to have dsp but I have no idea how I would access that. 24bits, aptx hd bt5
I once tried a £3 board, which seemed to be for telephony only. I later used one about £7 which was fit for the basic purpose, but I forget which. I hope this one is okay. I felt an external aerial important, after trials with both internal and external one's before. I also remembered a 90 degree sma elbow.
This puts me on hold for a week, so I'm looking at proper caps again. Something between the meanwell looking 12v 1a psu and bt board perhaps. With others coming back under the microscope.
My MSpaint skills are not going well, but here as a couple of the board from below. For completeness.
Hi friendly1uk,
The least expensive way to do something is to do it right the first time. There are no deals in component land, some "expensive ones" do not perform well. Ignore reviews on parts, like capacitors. They are not accurate, but you are tapping into a religion. The best parts depend on the circuit position (what they are doing). No one part type is the best in all situations. You cannot hear coupling capacitors unless they are bad in some way.
If you are on a budget, that is a very bad reason to make poor choices. Many times you are further ahead to leave the original parts installed unless they are defective. See? could have saved some money right there! When installing new parts, bend the leads without stressing the component body, especially capacitor leads. Do not just jam them in. That seems to be what the bulk of "recap people" do. It takes time and some care to install parts properly.
As for support, well we aren't helping you by endorsing bad choices or service techniques. We aren't selling anything, just trying to help no matter how much you may not like what is being said. That said, I guess experience will be your guide along with the many mis-steps you make along the way. It's an expensive way to learn.
The least expensive way to do something is to do it right the first time. There are no deals in component land, some "expensive ones" do not perform well. Ignore reviews on parts, like capacitors. They are not accurate, but you are tapping into a religion. The best parts depend on the circuit position (what they are doing). No one part type is the best in all situations. You cannot hear coupling capacitors unless they are bad in some way.
If you are on a budget, that is a very bad reason to make poor choices. Many times you are further ahead to leave the original parts installed unless they are defective. See? could have saved some money right there! When installing new parts, bend the leads without stressing the component body, especially capacitor leads. Do not just jam them in. That seems to be what the bulk of "recap people" do. It takes time and some care to install parts properly.
As for support, well we aren't helping you by endorsing bad choices or service techniques. We aren't selling anything, just trying to help no matter how much you may not like what is being said. That said, I guess experience will be your guide along with the many mis-steps you make along the way. It's an expensive way to learn.
I notice all these caps are rocking about. Non are particularly snug, and no efforts been made to support any. I guess they shouldn't be moving, but this isn't the hifi ethos I expected. I reckon my glue gun could help in places, or maybe the wobble is suspension in action 🙂
I'm not sure about my solder. I did have silver, but so much prefer leaded. The new lead free I can't get on with. So it's a 60:40 multicore of some sort.
Put it away and buy silver?
I might buy the smaller and obviously broken caps again, as good one's are only 50p each. I have seen some chonkx on youtube. blowing just for fun. At a rate that might not even survive first power on. The 8200uf I'm stuck with, as I can always replace them later, but right now the saving is quite real. Reviews are fair, and its better than blown one's. One channel actually sounds fine, so I'm not far off. Being just one that's 'bad' is why I'm looking at the audio path, but I reckon I'm going to leave that side alone, until the scope arrives, and I can pretend I know what I'm doing
I'm not sure about my solder. I did have silver, but so much prefer leaded. The new lead free I can't get on with. So it's a 60:40 multicore of some sort.
Put it away and buy silver?
I might buy the smaller and obviously broken caps again, as good one's are only 50p each. I have seen some chonkx on youtube. blowing just for fun. At a rate that might not even survive first power on. The 8200uf I'm stuck with, as I can always replace them later, but right now the saving is quite real. Reviews are fair, and its better than blown one's. One channel actually sounds fine, so I'm not far off. Being just one that's 'bad' is why I'm looking at the audio path, but I reckon I'm going to leave that side alone, until the scope arrives, and I can pretend I know what I'm doing
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If the capacitor lead spacing is correct, the capacitor body should be sitting flat on the PCB. If not, the leads should be formed properly and the capacitor sits perpendicular to the PCB surface. No attempt should be made to make it a solid mount. Capacitors are glued only if their mass is large enough to stress the leads/traces/solder joints. Also for wave soldering so they don't move during that process. Those parts are often mounted on their side and glued.
In aircraft and military/space equipment the assemblies are subjected to extreme vibration. Construction methods were adopted to enhance survival, you can't read across to consumer use where some of those practices reduce long term reliability. Another reason why those PCB assemblies are over-designed.
Hot glue is ... hot. Capacitors do not like that, they do not like heat in general. Therefore, I would say that hot glue would be a poor choice. Some hot glue formulations don't bond, so you haven't achieved anything beyond restricting capacitor body movement some, but it can still vibrate. Vibration is often your worst enemy, we're talking about solder or lead failure. Not microphonics and other audiophile myths. In any normal audio component, you shouldn't be worried about vibration. In a car amplifier strapped to the bass cabinet - yeah!
Basically, component movement of any kind (wobble?) isn't something you want past a certain limit. Don't fixate on small issues you may feel are detrimental. There is a lot of audio equipment that has survived over 40 years without any failures some "press" talks about. Mountain out of a molehill. Ignore tlk of "micro dynamics" and other silly concepts. High gain amplification is more sensitive to noise from all sources. The odd part may be audible if you tap them, but that doesn't happen in use and will be below the record surface noise (as an example). So mount them in a way that damps vibration. Recognise those parts at at the head of +40dB of amplification or more before signal level. That's 100 x or more. Then however much system amplification after that. Clearly a coupling capacitor for a line level isn't nearly as sensitive to vibration.
Take stuff you read with a grain of salt, then think about it. Most times you'll discover it's just noise about nothing practical.
In aircraft and military/space equipment the assemblies are subjected to extreme vibration. Construction methods were adopted to enhance survival, you can't read across to consumer use where some of those practices reduce long term reliability. Another reason why those PCB assemblies are over-designed.
Hot glue is ... hot. Capacitors do not like that, they do not like heat in general. Therefore, I would say that hot glue would be a poor choice. Some hot glue formulations don't bond, so you haven't achieved anything beyond restricting capacitor body movement some, but it can still vibrate. Vibration is often your worst enemy, we're talking about solder or lead failure. Not microphonics and other audiophile myths. In any normal audio component, you shouldn't be worried about vibration. In a car amplifier strapped to the bass cabinet - yeah!
Basically, component movement of any kind (wobble?) isn't something you want past a certain limit. Don't fixate on small issues you may feel are detrimental. There is a lot of audio equipment that has survived over 40 years without any failures some "press" talks about. Mountain out of a molehill. Ignore tlk of "micro dynamics" and other silly concepts. High gain amplification is more sensitive to noise from all sources. The odd part may be audible if you tap them, but that doesn't happen in use and will be below the record surface noise (as an example). So mount them in a way that damps vibration. Recognise those parts at at the head of +40dB of amplification or more before signal level. That's 100 x or more. Then however much system amplification after that. Clearly a coupling capacitor for a line level isn't nearly as sensitive to vibration.
Take stuff you read with a grain of salt, then think about it. Most times you'll discover it's just noise about nothing practical.
I don't think a single one of these sits flat. I have been looking under them for venting. They all seem contained.
Most of the time I see dry joints, it's heavy components. Maybe small themselves, but with heatsinks being favourate. I'm going to help out the main caps, as vibration with half a K is going to be physical, so I think shifting up the resonant frequency is worth the small effort. It's a blob of sealant or hot glue, so not a big deal. Either will be just a blob at the edge of a 105c cap, where it is just the base of the can. I won't be cooking anything.
I can't say I'm a big believer in microphonics either. Not without a very susceptible part, and a high gain. There are no iron core pots in here 🙂 Perhaps relay coils and armatures, but they are on a separate 5v regulated supply anyway. The fact that cap has blown, is one of my head scratching points. Not that I'm having crazy ideas it's microphonics injecting extra noise as some could try and sell us. I'm just thinking it's without clear reason. Everything popped is in the same area though. Picture if you will, a closed rack of kit, making perhaps 250w of heat. Then pushed up against a radiator of the household heating system. It's happened somehow. I can see the symptoms, but not the cause. Yet.
You didn't comment on the silver solder. I will take that as your comment. I really dislike the stuff I tried, and mixed it with my 60:40 just to get a nice flow. TBH my soldering work is a nice standard, and I have done a 72pin square smd with a 5mm screwdriver tip. I can do it. But the new lead free makes me want to give up, and fetch a metal arc welder.
Most of the time I see dry joints, it's heavy components. Maybe small themselves, but with heatsinks being favourate. I'm going to help out the main caps, as vibration with half a K is going to be physical, so I think shifting up the resonant frequency is worth the small effort. It's a blob of sealant or hot glue, so not a big deal. Either will be just a blob at the edge of a 105c cap, where it is just the base of the can. I won't be cooking anything.
I can't say I'm a big believer in microphonics either. Not without a very susceptible part, and a high gain. There are no iron core pots in here 🙂 Perhaps relay coils and armatures, but they are on a separate 5v regulated supply anyway. The fact that cap has blown, is one of my head scratching points. Not that I'm having crazy ideas it's microphonics injecting extra noise as some could try and sell us. I'm just thinking it's without clear reason. Everything popped is in the same area though. Picture if you will, a closed rack of kit, making perhaps 250w of heat. Then pushed up against a radiator of the household heating system. It's happened somehow. I can see the symptoms, but not the cause. Yet.
You didn't comment on the silver solder. I will take that as your comment. I really dislike the stuff I tried, and mixed it with my 60:40 just to get a nice flow. TBH my soldering work is a nice standard, and I have done a 72pin square smd with a 5mm screwdriver tip. I can do it. But the new lead free makes me want to give up, and fetch a metal arc welder.
Try new capacitors with lead spacing that aligns with the holes. They will be better capacitors (a touch more expensive) if they have wider lead spacing. 105 °C caps are not always better, high temps are destructive so solve the root cause if you can. A touch of silicone adhesive is best. Bad connections begin in the wave soldering machine. Hand soldering solves this issue. The larger components do not heat up enough due to thermal mass, so the solder never properly whetted. Also sometimes the larger parts move during the process. Smaller capacitor do not require mechanical restraint in any way. You just make a mess. Avoid using hot glue.
You probably have excessive internal case temperatures, plus high ripple current in the caps affected. Higher internal resistance coupled with high current can add to the ambient to overtemp the part. Cheap capacitors can be the cause coupled with run temperature. If you have limited ventilation, either fix that or install fans. Watch the thermal in the transformer may go next since the lack of ventilation wasn't solved.
Silver solder is for jewelry. High heat isn't good for anything, and the silver content doesn't buy you anything positive.
Try a 3mm screwdriver tip on your soldering station for larger stuff. I use that for surface mount chips as well, along with flux, works a treat and looks factory after cleaning.
You probably have excessive internal case temperatures, plus high ripple current in the caps affected. Higher internal resistance coupled with high current can add to the ambient to overtemp the part. Cheap capacitors can be the cause coupled with run temperature. If you have limited ventilation, either fix that or install fans. Watch the thermal in the transformer may go next since the lack of ventilation wasn't solved.
Silver solder is for jewelry. High heat isn't good for anything, and the silver content doesn't buy you anything positive.
Try a 3mm screwdriver tip on your soldering station for larger stuff. I use that for surface mount chips as well, along with flux, works a treat and looks factory after cleaning.
Classic theorist case. Overthinking irrelevant details and using many words but replacing crap capacitors for crap capacitors. Practical tips don’t land either.
It is not the solder or the mechanical mounting, resonance or whatever. It are crap caps failing. A practical way of solving is choosing good quality parts and replace all the flaky ones. Check polarity of replaced caps a second and a third time, resolder all joints, clean PCB’s/device. Then conclude issues have been solved. Place device in rack with enough free space for it to give its heat to the environment. Done.
It is not the solder or the mechanical mounting, resonance or whatever. It are crap caps failing. A practical way of solving is choosing good quality parts and replace all the flaky ones. Check polarity of replaced caps a second and a third time, resolder all joints, clean PCB’s/device. Then conclude issues have been solved. Place device in rack with enough free space for it to give its heat to the environment. Done.
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Overthinking irrelevant details like the cause not the symptoms?
You had your say about the brand, and yes it's second tier stuff. It's all gone wrong in one area though. Can't you see the clues?
I know it's not solder/mounting/resonance. I have said that, specifically for those that might think I'm stupid, but you are not reading. Your opening comment was your not reading it all, and you are still talking about too many words, and showing you are not reading. Yet saying the tips don't land.
Look over my work and call it done? No Jean-Paul, that won't be enough. I'm not just looking for the easiest way to get it off my bench. This is getting due care and attention.
I do hope the new caps fit better than what comes out. I won't silicone the small ones, as they vent at the bottom, and have no real weight. They were 105c to begin with, so I will stick with that. I can only do so much reforming the legs, as they shouldn't be bent using the body as a former. Some height gain is inevitable, and I don't fancy drilling the board lots. I might be forced to do as they did, but recognise it's probably not best practice.
Overthinking? No, I don't think so, and nor does anyone that understands what overthinking is.
You had your say about the brand, and yes it's second tier stuff. It's all gone wrong in one area though. Can't you see the clues?
I know it's not solder/mounting/resonance. I have said that, specifically for those that might think I'm stupid, but you are not reading. Your opening comment was your not reading it all, and you are still talking about too many words, and showing you are not reading. Yet saying the tips don't land.
Look over my work and call it done? No Jean-Paul, that won't be enough. I'm not just looking for the easiest way to get it off my bench. This is getting due care and attention.
I do hope the new caps fit better than what comes out. I won't silicone the small ones, as they vent at the bottom, and have no real weight. They were 105c to begin with, so I will stick with that. I can only do so much reforming the legs, as they shouldn't be bent using the body as a former. Some height gain is inevitable, and I don't fancy drilling the board lots. I might be forced to do as they did, but recognise it's probably not best practice.
Overthinking? No, I don't think so, and nor does anyone that understands what overthinking is.
Yes use parts that fit in higher voltage ratings and learn to speak in brands and series names, all has been said already. Don't hope they fit, look up their physical dimensions and order the right ones. Never use silicone containing acid in it to mount large snap-in caps so choose wisely (special variant for electronics is both expensive and dries out prematurely). I use Fix ALL High Tack by Soudal the last months and it works OK and does not corrode metals. Pretinning lead wires after bending and soldering lead wires with good old 60/40 AFTER cutting them are fine details for higher reliability.
No repairing stuff right straight away the best way won't be enough, we know 🙂 Oh and please V, mV, Hz, mA, dB, kHz, µF, MHz etc. as other people are reading all those words.
I think you have gotten premium first rate personal customized advice by real repair guys and should be able to bring the device back to nominal state with better quality caps. Only after testing other issues may come to light, fix one problem at a time.
No repairing stuff right straight away the best way won't be enough, we know 🙂 Oh and please V, mV, Hz, mA, dB, kHz, µF, MHz etc. as other people are reading all those words.
I think you have gotten premium first rate personal customized advice by real repair guys and should be able to bring the device back to nominal state with better quality caps. Only after testing other issues may come to light, fix one problem at a time.
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