Contact Rockford tech support. They will send you schematic diagrams for any model that's out of production as long as they're not using the same circuits as current models.
If the fuse only blows after remote voltage is applied, it's likely that the output transistors are shorted.
If the fuse only blows after remote voltage is applied, it's likely that the output transistors are shorted.
No it does not blow with just B+ applied. As soon as the on command or remote voltage is applied then the in line fuse from the car goes boom.
Sorry, customer gave wrong info. It's the 30A fuses that blow. Unit was swapped with another and they did not blow on it, so head unit and speakers are not the cause.
D1-Power LED on LED PCB is leaky. I don't know if it's the cause of the fuse blowing or not. It did not light up blue when I put my meter on diode check. The Protect and Thermal LEDs are ok they did light up their respective colors of yellow and red. Still looking for schematic.
Did you contact Rockford for the diagram?
The blue LEDs often require more voltage than a standard multimeter can produce so you can't always rely on the meter to light all LEDs. If it's leaky, however, it's defective. These commonly fail.
The LED will not cause fuses to blow.
If the amp only blows fuses after remote voltage is applied, the most likely problem is shorted output transistors.
If none are shorted, set the bias pots fully counter-clockwise and check again to see if the amp still draws excessive current.
The blue LEDs often require more voltage than a standard multimeter can produce so you can't always rely on the meter to light all LEDs. If it's leaky, however, it's defective. These commonly fail.
The LED will not cause fuses to blow.
If the amp only blows fuses after remote voltage is applied, the most likely problem is shorted output transistors.
If none are shorted, set the bias pots fully counter-clockwise and check again to see if the amp still draws excessive current.
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