At the very least, you need to replace:
Q2021
Q2025
Q2028
R2081
R2092
R2099
Desolder R2081, R2092 R2099 and check:
R2094
R2097
R2074
Remove Q2028 from the circuit, reinstall R2081 and R2092, clamp the transistors to the heatsink, insert a 15 amp fuse in the B+ line and power up the amp. Does it still have DC on the defective channel's speaker terminals?
If not, does the defective channel produce clean audio?
Q2021
Q2025
Q2028
R2081
R2092
R2099
Desolder R2081, R2092 R2099 and check:
R2094
R2097
R2074
Remove Q2028 from the circuit, reinstall R2081 and R2092, clamp the transistors to the heatsink, insert a 15 amp fuse in the B+ line and power up the amp. Does it still have DC on the defective channel's speaker terminals?
If not, does the defective channel produce clean audio?
Perry thank you for all your help. I'm going to be pretty swamped with work and school the next few days. As soon as my schedule clears i will do all that and post the results. Again thank you so much for all of your help.
Ok I just did as you asked and heres the results
R2094 - 10.0
R2097 - 39.0
R2074 - 10.0
Yes I do still have dc on the defective side after removing
the defective fet and resistor. It jumped around from neg to pos.
I'm going to test for audio now, but I have one quick question before I do. Are there l.e.d. lights on the board? Reason I'm asking is because I saw a red light flash and also a yellow light flash near were it says thermal on the board.
R2094 - 10.0
R2097 - 39.0
R2074 - 10.0
Yes I do still have dc on the defective side after removing
the defective fet and resistor. It jumped around from neg to pos.
I'm going to test for audio now, but I have one quick question before I do. Are there l.e.d. lights on the board? Reason I'm asking is because I saw a red light flash and also a yellow light flash near were it says thermal on the board.
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Yes there is led's on the board. It should tell you on the board what the lights are I know the yellow is the thermal light the red one should be marked also next to the led.
If there's 1v or more on the speaker terminals, do not connect a speaker to it. More troubleshooting needs to be done.
I just hooked it up and it sound nice and clean but to forgot to check the voltage, but it did sound nice and clear. I took the amp out of the car and its late so I'm a leave it for tomorrow. But thanks for your help mike9504.
I was so excited last night that I forgot what was the volt reading from last night so I rechecked and the defective channel reads +/- .001 - .008 DC volts. This was with audio playing without a speaker connected.
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When measuring for dc on the output terminals. Only hook power ground and remote to the amp. Do not plug the RCA's into the amp.
It appears that the driver and protection circuits have survived. Replace the components I suggested earlier.
12mv is acceptable. Re-check it after you complete the repair and before you connect a speaker to it.
Read the following post if you haven't done so already.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/car-...-schematics-3.html?postid=1901581#post1901581
Read the following post if you haven't done so already.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/car-...-schematics-3.html?postid=1901581#post1901581
is anyone on this thread anymore? i need a bit of info. i have the same amp. my power mosfets are bad.top right corner of amp that is picturd on page 1. i can find 4 of the 6. the very last two i cant cross anywere. they are on the chip marked as CQ543 and CQ614. what can i put in there that will work? any guidence will be greatful. i really think these forems are educational to the fullest. THANKS GUYS!!!
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