U21
pin 1: -2
pin 2: 1.9
pin 3: -3
pin 4:
pin 5:
pin 6:
pin 7:
pin 8:
is all i could measure... the amp case gets warmer and warmer from the FETs
i prefer to stop for now...
pin 1: -2
pin 2: 1.9
pin 3: -3
pin 4:
pin 5:
pin 6:
pin 7:
pin 8:
is all i could measure... the amp case gets warmer and warmer from the FETs
i prefer to stop for now...
Are the output fets getting warm or just the p/s fets?
Try lifting R31 and powering the amp to if the current draw goes down and the p/s supply fets stop getting warm.
If your not comfortable doing this wait for Perry to respond, he is the expert on these amps. I would feel bad if something happened to your amp on my account.
Try lifting R31 and powering the amp to if the current draw goes down and the p/s supply fets stop getting warm.
If your not comfortable doing this wait for Perry to respond, he is the expert on these amps. I would feel bad if something happened to your amp on my account.
With only ground and remote connected, measure the DC voltage on every gate leg of every power supply FET. Are they all essentially the same?
If so, what is the voltage?
If not, what's the most common voltage and which one is more or less?
What is the voltage on the odd one(s)?
If so, what is the voltage?
If not, what's the most common voltage and which one is more or less?
What is the voltage on the odd one(s)?
allright Perry im there
yesterday i was so freaking tired and the amp is driving me crazy so it was better to leave it aside...
now im in better condition i will check this out right now
yesterday i was so freaking tired and the amp is driving me crazy so it was better to leave it aside...
now im in better condition i will check this out right now
I dont know if this can help and if its 100% exact but...
usually as soon as i put power on the amp and connect the remote, the caps gets charged and i have to discharge them... this time i wanted to check for continuity on EVERY FETs of the amp to help out and see if they are all ok, and when i tried to discharge the caps .. nothing happened has if they were not charged!!!
maybe its not helpful but i tought i should tell...
usually as soon as i put power on the amp and connect the remote, the caps gets charged and i have to discharge them... this time i wanted to check for continuity on EVERY FETs of the amp to help out and see if they are all ok, and when i tried to discharge the caps .. nothing happened has if they were not charged!!!
maybe its not helpful but i tought i should tell...
That's because you didn't have anything connected to the B+ terminal.
Correct me if I misread it but I think you stated that the power supply side of the amp was heating more quickly and that the amp was drawing just over 6 amps of current at idle. Is that correct?
Correct me if I misread it but I think you stated that the power supply side of the amp was heating more quickly and that the amp was drawing just over 6 amps of current at idle. Is that correct?
correct for your statement!!
as soon as B+ and remote are connected they start to get warm then they continue to heat up and the case on that side stars to get warm ... this is really problematic
and yes it draws 6.5amps at idle
for the caps... yes today i didnt connect the B+ but yesterday i did.. and the caps seem to keep their charge because when i installed the caps yesterday i uncharged them and it worked... they were still charged from the last time i played with it before ordering the parts from Sean Kane!!!
so i think they should still be charged from yesterday when i connected the B+ cause last time they stayed charged for about a week!!
as soon as B+ and remote are connected they start to get warm then they continue to heat up and the case on that side stars to get warm ... this is really problematic
and yes it draws 6.5amps at idle
for the caps... yes today i didnt connect the B+ but yesterday i did.. and the caps seem to keep their charge because when i installed the caps yesterday i uncharged them and it worked... they were still charged from the last time i played with it before ordering the parts from Sean Kane!!!
so i think they should still be charged from yesterday when i connected the B+ cause last time they stayed charged for about a week!!
What do you mean by 'when i installed the caps'?
Did you replace the capacitors or did you remove/re-install the original caps?
Did you replace the capacitors or did you remove/re-install the original caps?
OOPS sorry
I meant installed the PARTS not the caps...
sorry for that
and FYI i measured ALL of the FETs on top and bottom and NONE of them shows continuity between their legs except some readings of the caps charging/discharging!!!
I meant installed the PARTS not the caps...
sorry for that
and FYI i measured ALL of the FETs on top and bottom and NONE of them shows continuity between their legs except some readings of the caps charging/discharging!!!
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also note that ALL of the power supply FETs are getting hot!!!
the left FETs are connected to the left toroid and the right FETs connected to the right toroid.. they are 2 separate circuits but BOTH of them are getting hot...
the left FETs are connected to the left toroid and the right FETs connected to the right toroid.. they are 2 separate circuits but BOTH of them are getting hot...
right on Perry
you are unbelievable!!!
something it wrong there for shure
on a battery ... with a 15A fuse not blowing (if i remember correctly 10A also)
11.69V before the remote is connected
7.57V when the remote is connected and stays the same even after the protect LED goes off after 5 seconds!!!
the amp must be applying a huge load to make the battery drop that much!! but 6A is not that huge in my book... is it enough to make the DC go from 11.7V to 7.6V??... or is the battery not charged enough to handle the load... 11.7V is not that bad... i can go at the shop to get a 15A battery charger if this would help!!!
you are unbelievable!!!
something it wrong there for shure
on a battery ... with a 15A fuse not blowing (if i remember correctly 10A also)
11.69V before the remote is connected
7.57V when the remote is connected and stays the same even after the protect LED goes off after 5 seconds!!!
the amp must be applying a huge load to make the battery drop that much!! but 6A is not that huge in my book... is it enough to make the DC go from 11.7V to 7.6V??... or is the battery not charged enough to handle the load... 11.7V is not that bad... i can go at the shop to get a 15A battery charger if this would help!!!
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its a battery...
sorry i updated the last post with that information ... instead of making a new post 🙁
re-read the 10:00PM post
my bad next time i will make another post when giving newer information
sorry i updated the last post with that information ... instead of making a new post 🙁
re-read the 10:00PM post
my bad next time i will make another post when giving newer information
Try the charger to see if it will help. Let the battery charge for a while before trying again.
If the fuse blows, discharge the caps and disconnect the red/black twisted wires FROM THE POWER SUPPLY side of the board.
Does it blow the fuse with the red/black wires disconnected?
If the fuse blows, discharge the caps and disconnect the red/black twisted wires FROM THE POWER SUPPLY side of the board.
Does it blow the fuse with the red/black wires disconnected?
now charging
its a slow *** 15amps intelligent charger... its only 15amps but its a top of the line dualpro to charge our car's optima's and top alcohol dragster batteries it does wet/dry/agm!!! it does not weaken batteries like most of the other chargers do, its really nice.. but slow
so if i am lucky ill get back to you later today with some results
again.. thanks for the help Perry
its a slow *** 15amps intelligent charger... its only 15amps but its a top of the line dualpro to charge our car's optima's and top alcohol dragster batteries it does wet/dry/agm!!! it does not weaken batteries like most of the other chargers do, its really nice.. but slow
so if i am lucky ill get back to you later today with some results
again.. thanks for the help Perry
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12.33V on the battery for now...
10.8V when the remote is plugged for now !!! charger says 75% charged ... when the charger is unplugged, the battery is at 12.6V but its not fully charged yet but its enough to give you some updates.
the power supply FETs are REALLY feeling better.. they are getting ... i would say semi warm... not even close to what is was before ... i can touch them for the time i want without burning myself.. as i said they are lets say semi warm.. the amp casing doesnt get warm.. only the FETs ... and after about 45 seconds they are still semi warm, 3 hours ago after about 30 seconds the CASE itself would get hot cause the FETs where heating it!!!
the protect LED still takes 5 seconds to go off... i think that previously (a week ago) it was taking about 1-1.5 second to turn off so this is different.
and now the amp pulls 11A at first when remote is connected and then going to about 10A quickly then it is slowly but steadily going down.. after 20 seconds its about at 9.5A then i disconnect not to break anything!! when i touch the power supply FETs, the toroids, and the metal heatsinks on the components here and there NOTHING is hot... where is that power going ??
also when the DMM is in series with the B+ the protect LED never goes off.. if i remove the DMM, it then goes back to what it was doing previously... the protect LED goes of after 5 seconds...
10.8V when the remote is plugged for now !!! charger says 75% charged ... when the charger is unplugged, the battery is at 12.6V but its not fully charged yet but its enough to give you some updates.
the power supply FETs are REALLY feeling better.. they are getting ... i would say semi warm... not even close to what is was before ... i can touch them for the time i want without burning myself.. as i said they are lets say semi warm.. the amp casing doesnt get warm.. only the FETs ... and after about 45 seconds they are still semi warm, 3 hours ago after about 30 seconds the CASE itself would get hot cause the FETs where heating it!!!
the protect LED still takes 5 seconds to go off... i think that previously (a week ago) it was taking about 1-1.5 second to turn off so this is different.
and now the amp pulls 11A at first when remote is connected and then going to about 10A quickly then it is slowly but steadily going down.. after 20 seconds its about at 9.5A then i disconnect not to break anything!! when i touch the power supply FETs, the toroids, and the metal heatsinks on the components here and there NOTHING is hot... where is that power going ??
also when the DMM is in series with the B+ the protect LED never goes off.. if i remove the DMM, it then goes back to what it was doing previously... the protect LED goes of after 5 seconds...
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