Recently rewired and refurbished my FR-64S per @hirscwi 's instruction above, and it worked like a charm.
My arm was gummed up to the point that the VTF knob would not move, and it certainly wasn't giving accurate results. The attached pictures show the point at which I stopped disassembly. Going further required removing the VTF spring, and I wasn't prepared to deal with the tiny flathead screws and odd angles. Luckily, a repeated drizzle of acetone between the knob and housing (and blasts of compressed air) was successful in flushing the old, gummed up grease. I applied a very light synthetic oil in between the same gap and that seems to be working perfectly thus far. Time will tell if I need to break down and remove the know a reapply a heavier grease.
Thanks again for sharing your process, Bill!
My arm was gummed up to the point that the VTF knob would not move, and it certainly wasn't giving accurate results. The attached pictures show the point at which I stopped disassembly. Going further required removing the VTF spring, and I wasn't prepared to deal with the tiny flathead screws and odd angles. Luckily, a repeated drizzle of acetone between the knob and housing (and blasts of compressed air) was successful in flushing the old, gummed up grease. I applied a very light synthetic oil in between the same gap and that seems to be working perfectly thus far. Time will tell if I need to break down and remove the know a reapply a heavier grease.
Thanks again for sharing your process, Bill!
Attachments
I'm just about to do this I think ?? Did anyone adjust or even replace the bearings ?
Thanks Dave
Thanks Dave
I spent quite of bit of time looking at and considering bearing replacement. I even bought a pair to replace the horizontal bearings, but the fit was tight enough on the originals that I ultimately decided it wasn't worth the risk. After cleaning and relubing the originals, I was satisfied. Perhaps if I'd had the right equipment and experience to pull the old bearings, it would've worked out differently.
OK, before I start (not any time soon) can you adjust the bearings, particularly the azimuth (left right) one ?
Thanks Dave
Thanks Dave
Having had a couple of these arms and the face to face advice of the late Be Yamamura I also replaced the wiring - with great effect. The difference was that I removed the larger disc to access the vertical bearing shaft. When reassembling I removed the tracking force spring and relied on an accurate electronic scale, adjusting tracking force by moving the balance weight. They are very good arms - especially with the B64 (?) elevation base and top quality low compliance MC cartridge such as the original AudioNote Io from Kondo.
[Unfortunately both arms were borrowed and not returned - nor can I trace the culprit]
The alloy version is not a patch on the S.
[Unfortunately both arms were borrowed and not returned - nor can I trace the culprit]
The alloy version is not a patch on the S.
I've done a couple of these and don't remember that there is any adjustment on the bearings. The ones I worked had very tight and smooth bearings.
It is the S Stainless version I have. I'll bite the bullet and take it apart in a couple of weeks.
Well I have found 2 feet of Van den Hul MCS 150 in 4 colors (in the draw!) and just need JP to advise on bearing types and then I'm up for it.
I'll be using my Miyajima Madake and a loan sample of the fully balanced Moonriver 505 Phonostage. And my big JBL's. I can't wait, but I will until everything is perfect.
I'll be using my Miyajima Madake and a loan sample of the fully balanced Moonriver 505 Phonostage. And my big JBL's. I can't wait, but I will until everything is perfect.
Out of curiosity, I looked up the van den hul, and the price—range is huge (€50.– – €190.–) …
(I‘m lurking kn this thread in the hope to snitch informations for restaurating my FR-24 …)
(I‘m lurking kn this thread in the hope to snitch informations for restaurating my FR-24 …)
Yes ! I have Van den Hul MCS 150M and you could get away with 0.5M x 4 reducing the cost a lot. Cheaper prices are 50mm (10 times less wire) for a headshell.
Others recommend other types, such as KAB Superflex (thanks JP). But I have this in my hand and the cost to me, was nothing. YMMV
Others recommend other types, such as KAB Superflex (thanks JP). But I have this in my hand and the cost to me, was nothing. YMMV
I was referring to the internal wiring, 0.5m. The best price offer even states it is 1.0 m...
(I went with the 34AWG cardas, a copper variant, BTW)
Attachments
I've never worked on one of these arms so I don't know how the bearing are loaded, etc. From pics it looks like AnalogMagik is using Si3n4 hybrids. I thought their videos of "what's important" to be highly entertaining.
Indeed ! I have got to the azimuth bearing and it's built like a battle ship, no way could it be as rough as that video. It is adjustable and it was easy to tighten up. It passes the spin test and the SME paper test, 10mm strip of ordinary paper 80mm long, hold at one end. I might wash it out though.
The azimuth bearing I'll get to on Monday, but i think that will be OK too. So a clean up and new wire and it will/should be sorted.
In-between this, two Mk3 bearings checked after 5 years and both perfect although one retaining collar was on the verge of being loose ?
I've seen that video and it seems like pure sales BS. They make it sound like it is extremely difficult to work on this arm. I've done several and they are relatively straight forward.
So the bearings were full of gunk and lumpy. They are 4mm shaft, 8mm outside diameter and 2mm thick. What are my real world options ?