Hey all,
Restoring a pair of Tympani T-1D. These required a total rewire - not just a reglue. Previous owner really buggered these up.
All rewired, but cannot find the info on start - stop of the voice coil - got a 50-50 chance on guessing, but not feeling very luck (yeah yeah, just do the opposite?)
Trying to confirm following on the T-ID:
Serial xxxxxx-1 is Right Speaker
Serial xxxxxx-2 is Left Speaker
Resistance of Treble/mid Panel (10.2 ohm or 5.1 ohm)
Pole plate is to listener (front) on T-Id
Looking down at the voice-coil, start entry (Hot speaker RED) is to right
Looking down at the voice-coil exit (Return speaker BLACK) is to left (actually center as it completes a double pass)
Woofer panel (no button) is in middle, pole plate out
Thanks in Advance!!
Restoring a pair of Tympani T-1D. These required a total rewire - not just a reglue. Previous owner really buggered these up.
All rewired, but cannot find the info on start - stop of the voice coil - got a 50-50 chance on guessing, but not feeling very luck (yeah yeah, just do the opposite?)
Trying to confirm following on the T-ID:
Serial xxxxxx-1 is Right Speaker
Serial xxxxxx-2 is Left Speaker
Resistance of Treble/mid Panel (10.2 ohm or 5.1 ohm)
Pole plate is to listener (front) on T-Id
Looking down at the voice-coil, start entry (Hot speaker RED) is to right
Looking down at the voice-coil exit (Return speaker BLACK) is to left (actually center as it completes a double pass)
Woofer panel (no button) is in middle, pole plate out
Thanks in Advance!!
Serial No. is -1 for the left, -2 for right the speaker.
From the listening seat, the mid and low bass have Mylar in front.
Pictures of the right speaker without the tweeter, Microsoft OneDrive - Access files anywhere. Create docs with free Office Online., Microsoft OneDrive - Access files anywhere. Create docs with free Office Online., Microsoft OneDrive - Access files anywhere. Create docs with free Office Online.
Left speaker, Microsoft OneDrive - Access files anywhere. Create docs with free Office Online.
From the listening seat, the mid and low bass have Mylar in front.
Pictures of the right speaker without the tweeter, Microsoft OneDrive - Access files anywhere. Create docs with free Office Online., Microsoft OneDrive - Access files anywhere. Create docs with free Office Online., Microsoft OneDrive - Access files anywhere. Create docs with free Office Online.
Left speaker, Microsoft OneDrive - Access files anywhere. Create docs with free Office Online.
Thanks Roger, I emailed Gary at Magnepan and got the schematics and wiring diagram.
I now just need to get the Aluminum Solder and bass panels are done. So the 10 ohm tweeters mean one of the voice coil pairs is dead. I tried resoldering all terminals, but the one wire run is dead...
I am now left with drilling out the rivets and hopefully not damage the mylar so I can remove pole piece and rewire the voice coils with 36 gauge aluminum wire... I hear its a 50-50 opening these old tweeters, and last time i tried, I failed...so that means this time I will get lucky - yeah, well we know that ain't gonna happen.
But, I think what really rips the mylar on these old push pull tweeter repairs is all the twisting and impact trying to remove the tweeter from the frame (not easy as they are glued in). If I leave the one side glued to the frame and just drill out rivets to remove the backside pole piece, I will have better chance of keeping the mylar intact. Hopefully the glue used to set into frame is not holding the two pole pieces together. I always have the ability to just re-mylar the diaphragm if I rip it (I have tons of 3 and 6 micron mylar) ...but do not know the required tension of the mylar - anyone know?
Well, should be getting back on this later next week. Fingers crossed!
I now just need to get the Aluminum Solder and bass panels are done. So the 10 ohm tweeters mean one of the voice coil pairs is dead. I tried resoldering all terminals, but the one wire run is dead...
I am now left with drilling out the rivets and hopefully not damage the mylar so I can remove pole piece and rewire the voice coils with 36 gauge aluminum wire... I hear its a 50-50 opening these old tweeters, and last time i tried, I failed...so that means this time I will get lucky - yeah, well we know that ain't gonna happen.
But, I think what really rips the mylar on these old push pull tweeter repairs is all the twisting and impact trying to remove the tweeter from the frame (not easy as they are glued in). If I leave the one side glued to the frame and just drill out rivets to remove the backside pole piece, I will have better chance of keeping the mylar intact. Hopefully the glue used to set into frame is not holding the two pole pieces together. I always have the ability to just re-mylar the diaphragm if I rip it (I have tons of 3 and 6 micron mylar) ...but do not know the required tension of the mylar - anyone know?
Well, should be getting back on this later next week. Fingers crossed!
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Hi Giovanni,
Do you mind sharing the schematics and wiring diagram? I will send you a PM with my E-Mail.
I have managed to open up the tweeters. You need to remove the correct side of the perforated sheet metal, the side where you see the wires on the Mylar.
Can Magnepan now supply the 36 gauge aluminium wire? It was out of stock for some time (years)? I have a pair of ID that have a buzzing tweeter. I have been thinking of using foil conductors but I will have to cut them myself. I have done that before...
Roger
Do you mind sharing the schematics and wiring diagram? I will send you a PM with my E-Mail.
I have managed to open up the tweeters. You need to remove the correct side of the perforated sheet metal, the side where you see the wires on the Mylar.
Can Magnepan now supply the 36 gauge aluminium wire? It was out of stock for some time (years)? I have a pair of ID that have a buzzing tweeter. I have been thinking of using foil conductors but I will have to cut them myself. I have done that before...
Roger