Here are a couple shots to set up the problem:
This 14 inch LCD (X2GEN) is mounted on a 15x14" piece of 1/2 wood. A hole 2" from the sides and 2 7/8" from the top allows the LCD to rest unobstructed, supported by rubber spacers against the wood. 45 degree cuts allow light from the fresnels tto enter without resulting in dark corners, although the 1/2" may still be too thick.
How can I insert the FFC cable so that it does not cause flickering? It just doesn't seem quite long enough. As soon as I try focusing the panels within the box, I inevitably bump the FFC causing the picture to go haywire until the controller decides it's had enough.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
This 14 inch LCD (X2GEN) is mounted on a 15x14" piece of 1/2 wood. A hole 2" from the sides and 2 7/8" from the top allows the LCD to rest unobstructed, supported by rubber spacers against the wood. 45 degree cuts allow light from the fresnels tto enter without resulting in dark corners, although the 1/2" may still be too thick.
How can I insert the FFC cable so that it does not cause flickering? It just doesn't seem quite long enough. As soon as I try focusing the panels within the box, I inevitably bump the FFC causing the picture to go haywire until the controller decides it's had enough.
stability
If I were you, I would very carefully fold the original large flexible PC down to the frame and hold it there with something soft. Then I would bend the extender FFC jumper close to the connector, so that the large flexible PC is not strained. That would keep these delicate parts out of the way as you mount fresnels, etc.
If you need to use a longer extender, just buy another connector and jumper. I use 6" and 3" jumpers to get a total extender length of 9". Seems to work fine for me.
If I were you, I would very carefully fold the original large flexible PC down to the frame and hold it there with something soft. Then I would bend the extender FFC jumper close to the connector, so that the large flexible PC is not strained. That would keep these delicate parts out of the way as you mount fresnels, etc.
If you need to use a longer extender, just buy another connector and jumper. I use 6" and 3" jumpers to get a total extender length of 9". Seems to work fine for me.
Okay I am 99% done with my setup, just have to find the optimal focusing points - but there's a problem! My flickering problem is still there!
I believe it is interference coming from the ballast or my wiring job. I have placed my ballast in the front of my box, directly next to my LCD controller board, but I grounded everything out. I have a 5 position terminal block with AC on one end and DC off the other. My fans and LCD are on a separate switch from the ballast. My LCD power supply only accepts ungrounded outlets - xbox style power connector - 2 prong. I have VGA, Ballast Power, and Ballast output all running down one side of the box.
With the ballast and lamp turned off I get an image on the screen, as soon as I turn on the ballast everything goes to crap.
I'm going to try powering the LCD off a different circuit
I believe it is interference coming from the ballast or my wiring job. I have placed my ballast in the front of my box, directly next to my LCD controller board, but I grounded everything out. I have a 5 position terminal block with AC on one end and DC off the other. My fans and LCD are on a separate switch from the ballast. My LCD power supply only accepts ungrounded outlets - xbox style power connector - 2 prong. I have VGA, Ballast Power, and Ballast output all running down one side of the box.
With the ballast and lamp turned off I get an image on the screen, as soon as I turn on the ballast everything goes to crap.
I'm going to try powering the LCD off a different circuit
ballast & controller PCB
I think you need to do something to prevent electromagnetic interference from the ballast to the controller board. You said you have very little seperation between those two. The ballast is an autotransformer that converts all the input power into a fluctuating magnetic field. Most of this magnetic field's energy generates the output voltage, but some leaks out of the ballast. If you have a wire (in this case a trace on the controller board) close to that magnetic field, then a current will be induced.
The voltage levels on the controller board's traces will be in the 3-5 volt range, so it would be pretty easy to introduce noise into those signals. That would confuse the controller chip or the drivers on the LCD driver boards.
The easy way to cut the interference is distance: Seperate the ballast and other high current 120 VAC circuits from the controller board and LCD low current low voltage circuits. Another possibility is the use of metal sheilding between the two domains. The idea is to convert all the stray magnetism into electrical currents within the sheild metal, before it gets to the sensitive parts.
I think you need to do something to prevent electromagnetic interference from the ballast to the controller board. You said you have very little seperation between those two. The ballast is an autotransformer that converts all the input power into a fluctuating magnetic field. Most of this magnetic field's energy generates the output voltage, but some leaks out of the ballast. If you have a wire (in this case a trace on the controller board) close to that magnetic field, then a current will be induced.
The voltage levels on the controller board's traces will be in the 3-5 volt range, so it would be pretty easy to introduce noise into those signals. That would confuse the controller chip or the drivers on the LCD driver boards.
The easy way to cut the interference is distance: Seperate the ballast and other high current 120 VAC circuits from the controller board and LCD low current low voltage circuits. Another possibility is the use of metal sheilding between the two domains. The idea is to convert all the stray magnetism into electrical currents within the sheild metal, before it gets to the sensitive parts.
thanks for the detailed information. After posting I rerouted my cables, tried a different power supply, and moved the vga cable, unfortunately the only way I could do this was by suspending the LCD controller in the image path, as well as having the box half open. I did get a decent picture.
Also while I've been trying to trouble shoot this issue(I thought the flickering was associated with the FFC. I didn't put 2 and 2 together, before when my box was too long I had about 8 feet of wire going to the lamp with the ballast outside the box. Only now do I realize that my constant playing with the FFC was pointless. In fact I destroyed 50% of the image by damaging the connectors - they only worked 1/2 way. And 20 minutes ago I got a spark on the FFC outside, now it looks as though I've fried the LCD.
Also while I've been trying to trouble shoot this issue(I thought the flickering was associated with the FFC. I didn't put 2 and 2 together, before when my box was too long I had about 8 feet of wire going to the lamp with the ballast outside the box. Only now do I realize that my constant playing with the FFC was pointless. In fact I destroyed 50% of the image by damaging the connectors - they only worked 1/2 way. And 20 minutes ago I got a spark on the FFC outside, now it looks as though I've fried the LCD.
damaged LCD
Well, I'm sorry to read that you damaged your LCD. Sometimes our purpose in life is just to be a bad example for others. 😀
For future reference, builders: You should not extend the wires from your ballast to the other parts (condensor, ignitor, lamp socket). All of those parts should be fairly close to the lamp, but not exposed to direct light from the lamp. (If you do that, they will get too hot.)
If possible, your LCD controller board should rest against the side or back wall of your enclosure on the side of the LCD away from the lamp. That will keep it from overheating, and will give it some distance from the high-power lamp circuit. If it can't go on that side of the LCD, then you need to put a metal shield over it to project it from IR heating and proximity to stray magnetic fields from the lamp circuit parts. You might also need to direct some cooling airflow over it.
Well, I'm sorry to read that you damaged your LCD. Sometimes our purpose in life is just to be a bad example for others. 😀
For future reference, builders: You should not extend the wires from your ballast to the other parts (condensor, ignitor, lamp socket). All of those parts should be fairly close to the lamp, but not exposed to direct light from the lamp. (If you do that, they will get too hot.)
If possible, your LCD controller board should rest against the side or back wall of your enclosure on the side of the LCD away from the lamp. That will keep it from overheating, and will give it some distance from the high-power lamp circuit. If it can't go on that side of the LCD, then you need to put a metal shield over it to project it from IR heating and proximity to stray magnetic fields from the lamp circuit parts. You might also need to direct some cooling airflow over it.
i feel your pain thats how i fried my veiwsonic vp140 playin with the fcc ext connectors then a spark then nothin
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