The thing is that the turntable chassis is made of wood.
Okay, well, how about the tone arm and other mechanisms?
Hi everybody,
I am a newbie who need some help because i have builted a Low Z board but when i tested it, i have a complete silence :-(
My MC AT OC9 0,45 mv cartridge outputs are isolated from ground and connected to IN +/- , i try to grounded IN- without sucess.
Board outputs are connected to my balanced préamp. with XLR :
OUT + pin 2, OUT - pin 3, GND pin 1.
PS is 10 AA batteries
everything rigth here ?
I have measured IN/OUT board voltage with the turntable unplugged.
I see 2,20/2,25 V between GND and each inputs and outputs.
Is it normal ??
Thanks for help, i don't no what to do !
I am a newbie who need some help because i have builted a Low Z board but when i tested it, i have a complete silence :-(
My MC AT OC9 0,45 mv cartridge outputs are isolated from ground and connected to IN +/- , i try to grounded IN- without sucess.
Board outputs are connected to my balanced préamp. with XLR :
OUT + pin 2, OUT - pin 3, GND pin 1.
PS is 10 AA batteries
everything rigth here ?
I have measured IN/OUT board voltage with the turntable unplugged.
I see 2,20/2,25 V between GND and each inputs and outputs.
Is it normal ??
Thanks for help, i don't no what to do !
PS is 10 AA 1,5V batteries put in a box and connected to +/- power pins board that's all.
So there is no GND and i measured 14,6 V between +/-
The box :
Boitier Support Coupleur 10 Piles AA 12V 15V OU 16V | eBay
Not enougth current intensity ?
So there is no GND and i measured 14,6 V between +/-
The box :
Boitier Support Coupleur 10 Piles AA 12V 15V OU 16V | eBay
Not enougth current intensity ?
Correct. Or just use a regular bipolar supply, which would be a lot easier and won't run out or power.
Unless you are using special batteries (LiPo), your battery supply will have a relatively large output impedance, and will not yield optimum results.
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I ordered the Lo-Z Retro yesterday and the more I think about it the more I like it.
Early this week I received a Thorens TD320 with Denon DL-103 bought on Ebay and I built the (picture below) MC preamp and RIAA from:
RIAA Phono Preamps
Hi-Fi RIAA Phono Preamp
I’m using digital amps so I must convert to digital thus ordered a CS5381 but then realized: “bummer, why going single-ended when both coil and ADC input aren’t”
Analog design stuff isn’t my cup of tea so I checked on internet and found the Retro...
Early this week I received a Thorens TD320 with Denon DL-103 bought on Ebay and I built the (picture below) MC preamp and RIAA from:
RIAA Phono Preamps
Hi-Fi RIAA Phono Preamp
I’m using digital amps so I must convert to digital thus ordered a CS5381 but then realized: “bummer, why going single-ended when both coil and ADC input aren’t”
Analog design stuff isn’t my cup of tea so I checked on internet and found the Retro...
Attachments
Happy New Year to everyone.
Not sure which forum is best for this question (posted it on Twisted Pear Audio about a week ago).
I received the Retro lo-Z and was wondering about R7 & R8 (both 2K) not included and instead got C14 & C15 (both 22pF) which don't appear on the schematic.
I would think that the original design might have been slightly modified and I received the updated parts but the PCB is still the original one, hence the mismatch.
Brian or Russ please can you advise ? Many thanks in advance.
Anyway for the time being I soldered a couple of metal film 1K in series I had in my drawers and the Retro seems to be working pretty well, albeit an output level a bit low. Great!
Not sure which forum is best for this question (posted it on Twisted Pear Audio about a week ago).
I received the Retro lo-Z and was wondering about R7 & R8 (both 2K) not included and instead got C14 & C15 (both 22pF) which don't appear on the schematic.
I would think that the original design might have been slightly modified and I received the updated parts but the PCB is still the original one, hence the mismatch.
Brian or Russ please can you advise ? Many thanks in advance.
Anyway for the time being I soldered a couple of metal film 1K in series I had in my drawers and the Retro seems to be working pretty well, albeit an output level a bit low. Great!
That was a kitting error on my part. I will get you the correct resistors right away.
Below is a picture of the Retro together with the AD converter from Uwe Beis AD24QS - Audio Analog to Digital Converter 24 Bit / 192 kHz
Originally I was thinking of using a smaller enclosure thus planning to make a PCB based on Uwe's ADC design but finally I went for the easy way. I cut a new front panel and just added a small plate to cover the rear panel unused holes.
Notes:
- the Retro R18 & R19 are 47 ohms for the Denon DL-103
- the SMA connector on the upper left side is for the connection to the master clock
- I tried to re-use a small transformer I had scrapped from an amp to quickly make a single 14V power supply. It works but the power rating is too low and I'll have to use a transformer a bit bigger
Originally I was thinking of using a smaller enclosure thus planning to make a PCB based on Uwe's ADC design but finally I went for the easy way. I cut a new front panel and just added a small plate to cover the rear panel unused holes.
Notes:
- the Retro R18 & R19 are 47 ohms for the Denon DL-103
- the SMA connector on the upper left side is for the connection to the master clock
- I tried to re-use a small transformer I had scrapped from an amp to quickly make a single 14V power supply. It works but the power rating is too low and I'll have to use a transformer a bit bigger
