Today I fired up the amp at my friend's shop... and guess what? NO smoke! Incredible.
But after a minute the heatsink got dramatically hot. I measured the quiescent current on R748 and I read 200mV! That's a bit too much. That means 800mA... Gasp! I tried to rotate the bias pot (that I've replaced with the right value, previous one burnt) and I got no difference on that reading. Always in the range of 200mV. So I've got a bias pot that doesn't bias.
On the other channel (R747) I measured 80mV, still too much, but I can't say if this one gets hot because they actually get hot because the other channel does...
I've find a problem, that I don't know if it is related to this anyway... remember that all trs check good on the DMM.
The problem is that I've found H714 burnt and broken. I supposed it was a diode, though I can't recognise the name on the schematic (S3016R). I checked with the diode test the same diode on the other channel and read a 550mV. Those are little, I thought, can be replaced with 1N4148. WRONG!
I've searched but I couldn't find info on this diode. But I thought that many times they omit the 1 or 2 before the number, so I thought it should be a 1S3016, which is a 16V Zener. Ouch! I will bought them as soon as I can...
Might those high reading on q current be related to this mistake? I hope I haven't damaged anything... BTW psu was fine now... not more 70V but a more reasonable 64V... I suppose that's because of the loading of that high q current...
But with near 800mA, and a 1A fuse on the rail of each channel, shouldn't the fuse glow? Maybe a little bit... or that's not enought?
Help Me!
But after a minute the heatsink got dramatically hot. I measured the quiescent current on R748 and I read 200mV! That's a bit too much. That means 800mA... Gasp! I tried to rotate the bias pot (that I've replaced with the right value, previous one burnt) and I got no difference on that reading. Always in the range of 200mV. So I've got a bias pot that doesn't bias.
On the other channel (R747) I measured 80mV, still too much, but I can't say if this one gets hot because they actually get hot because the other channel does...
I've find a problem, that I don't know if it is related to this anyway... remember that all trs check good on the DMM.
The problem is that I've found H714 burnt and broken. I supposed it was a diode, though I can't recognise the name on the schematic (S3016R). I checked with the diode test the same diode on the other channel and read a 550mV. Those are little, I thought, can be replaced with 1N4148. WRONG!
I've searched but I couldn't find info on this diode. But I thought that many times they omit the 1 or 2 before the number, so I thought it should be a 1S3016, which is a 16V Zener. Ouch! I will bought them as soon as I can...
Might those high reading on q current be related to this mistake? I hope I haven't damaged anything... BTW psu was fine now... not more 70V but a more reasonable 64V... I suppose that's because of the loading of that high q current...
But with near 800mA, and a 1A fuse on the rail of each channel, shouldn't the fuse glow? Maybe a little bit... or that's not enought?
Help Me!
Hi Giaime,
It really looks like H006 is open, or the trace / solder joint is open. H714 is in parallel with your pot. A normal silicon diode should work there. Is it possible your pot is open?
The network of pot || H714 and H006 is across the bases of your driver transistors. There are no active devices other than these to control your bias current. Check your voltage drops to be sure. The polarity of these diodes will also matter.
-Chris
It really looks like H006 is open, or the trace / solder joint is open. H714 is in parallel with your pot. A normal silicon diode should work there. Is it possible your pot is open?
The network of pot || H714 and H006 is across the bases of your driver transistors. There are no active devices other than these to control your bias current. Check your voltage drops to be sure. The polarity of these diodes will also matter.
-Chris
Thank You Chris!
Are you sure that H714 isn't a zener? I've got to be sure...
The pot isn't open 'cause it's new, the previous one burnt, but I'll look for open joint/trace.
I think that H006 (which is a 3 diode in series package, if I'm right) is the culprit, it broke it's legs very close to the package, and I wasn't sure for a replacement, so I tried to solder them ligtly scratching the plastic package. My DMM said it worked, it measured 1.7V that should be reasonable for 3 diodes in series. Maybe when some current tryed to pass into it, it opened...
I will also check for leaking ceramic caps, I'm referring to C720 or C730...
And another question, do you think that the other channel is ok? Well, with 80mV isn't, but that could be reasonable, and can be adjustable by the bias pot? On the 200mV channel the pot didn't change the q current at all...
Are you sure that H714 isn't a zener? I've got to be sure...
The pot isn't open 'cause it's new, the previous one burnt, but I'll look for open joint/trace.
I think that H006 (which is a 3 diode in series package, if I'm right) is the culprit, it broke it's legs very close to the package, and I wasn't sure for a replacement, so I tried to solder them ligtly scratching the plastic package. My DMM said it worked, it measured 1.7V that should be reasonable for 3 diodes in series. Maybe when some current tryed to pass into it, it opened...
I will also check for leaking ceramic caps, I'm referring to C720 or C730...
And another question, do you think that the other channel is ok? Well, with 80mV isn't, but that could be reasonable, and can be adjustable by the bias pot? On the 200mV channel the pot didn't change the q current at all...
Hi Giaime,
H714 is not a zener. It's a diode, but I can't find that number type. I am reasonably sure it's a normal signal diode. Another point, new does not mean good. You don't know how many defective new parts I have received. Check it, but my money is on H006. - Sorry.
Leave the other channel alone until you get this one fixed. The bias current may drop. Make sure H006 and the other one is in thermal contact with the heatsink. You should be able to reduce the bias current with the pot to a value that is too low. I see no reason to run the bias much over 20 mA on this unit. I can't remember what the spec. is but that will be close.
The ceramic caps should be okay. I've seen the odd one short, but they normally go open slowly. You may want to check for oscillation while you are in there.
-Chris
H714 is not a zener. It's a diode, but I can't find that number type. I am reasonably sure it's a normal signal diode. Another point, new does not mean good. You don't know how many defective new parts I have received. Check it, but my money is on H006. - Sorry.
Leave the other channel alone until you get this one fixed. The bias current may drop. Make sure H006 and the other one is in thermal contact with the heatsink. You should be able to reduce the bias current with the pot to a value that is too low. I see no reason to run the bias much over 20 mA on this unit. I can't remember what the spec. is but that will be close.
The ceramic caps should be okay. I've seen the odd one short, but they normally go open slowly. You may want to check for oscillation while you are in there.
-Chris
Giaime
I'm not going to have **** with this marantz 1060 if i'm you.
My marantz 1060 makes a buzz sound at the speakers and if i put my something like my pc or cd player in aux it makes a even more buzz sound so i took all that scrap out.
I also rewired the mains becuase it did not look so safw to me your will understand.
built your own power amp and connect it up in your marantz 1060
like i want to do.
Here are pics for you from my marantz 1060
I'm not going to have **** with this marantz 1060 if i'm you.
My marantz 1060 makes a buzz sound at the speakers and if i put my something like my pc or cd player in aux it makes a even more buzz sound so i took all that scrap out.
I also rewired the mains becuase it did not look so safw to me your will understand.
built your own power amp and connect it up in your marantz 1060
like i want to do.
Here are pics for you from my marantz 1060
Wow! You dismantled it!
It is my friend's amp, and he's waiting for it, so it doesn't matter if it is hard to repair and not worth it.
(but I admitt that when I was stuck with it, I thought about removing the poweramp board and replace it with two lm3875... that would eliminate all the problems! but here I can't find them...)
It is my friend's amp, and he's waiting for it, so it doesn't matter if it is hard to repair and not worth it.
(but I admitt that when I was stuck with it, I thought about removing the poweramp board and replace it with two lm3875... that would eliminate all the problems! but here I can't find them...)
Giaime
me and you have almost the same probleme with marantz 1060
you want to repair that 4 transistor power amp and i want to make my own power amp and replace it with that crap.
TIP "dont even fink to repair that amp you will only confussed your self"
did your friend give that to you or must you repair it for him.
a 74 year old dude give it to me and tell me a can use it for parts
me and you have almost the same probleme with marantz 1060
you want to repair that 4 transistor power amp and i want to make my own power amp and replace it with that crap.
TIP "dont even fink to repair that amp you will only confussed your self"
did your friend give that to you or must you repair it for him.
a 74 year old dude give it to me and tell me a can use it for parts
Hi Giaime,
Firstly, chip amps aren't as robust as this one. Secondly, it's no longer a Marantz. That may not be so much an issue, but at least put in something better. Power supply may need redesigning for bipolar voltages.
The original would have been easier to fix for me (experience). Where did you get with yours?
-Chris
Firstly, chip amps aren't as robust as this one. Secondly, it's no longer a Marantz. That may not be so much an issue, but at least put in something better. Power supply may need redesigning for bipolar voltages.
The original would have been easier to fix for me (experience). Where did you get with yours?
-Chris
hi anatech
i'm also bussy with that thing, trying to upgrade a marantz 1060 to 200rms or even 400rms but i dont have alot of space in the amp so i will stick to 200rms and try to use the origenal transformer in the amp the centertap one yellow wires not the white and red
I'm having problems with a power amp section so i cant go on with this project.
The ETI-480 100W per channel
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=52395&goto=newpost
i'm also bussy with that thing, trying to upgrade a marantz 1060 to 200rms or even 400rms but i dont have alot of space in the amp so i will stick to 200rms and try to use the origenal transformer in the amp the centertap one yellow wires not the white and red
I'm having problems with a power amp section so i cant go on with this project.
The ETI-480 100W per channel
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=52395&goto=newpost
Listen up
Hi jacquesl & Giaime,
New substitute parts are not that hard to figure out with some experience. These amps are not that hard to fix either, no harder than anything else. When I started, I was expected to fix amps that seems to have tough problems to me. I hated those days. However, I learned an awful lot by getting through these things. Back then I didn't have the internet, no one to help me either. Long distance call were expensive back then too. Marantz head office was in California, USA. I was in Toronto, Canada three time zones away. A call could easily cost $15 ~ 30 CDN (1977). In short, I had to do it myself.
The only advice I can give you in general is to write down what you KNOW, not guess or think you know. Test logically and write down your results. If you test something that doesn't make sense, you made a mistake somewhere. Go back. You will repair the unit by doing this, and learn at the same time. Giving up does not teach you a darn thing except to give up. At least you can get diagrams these days and someone to help , for free. I wish I had the same level of assistance when I was starting as you do. BTW, I can fix almost anything these days. I learned good troubleshooting and repair techniques.
-Chris
Hi jacquesl & Giaime,
New substitute parts are not that hard to figure out with some experience. These amps are not that hard to fix either, no harder than anything else. When I started, I was expected to fix amps that seems to have tough problems to me. I hated those days. However, I learned an awful lot by getting through these things. Back then I didn't have the internet, no one to help me either. Long distance call were expensive back then too. Marantz head office was in California, USA. I was in Toronto, Canada three time zones away. A call could easily cost $15 ~ 30 CDN (1977). In short, I had to do it myself.
The only advice I can give you in general is to write down what you KNOW, not guess or think you know. Test logically and write down your results. If you test something that doesn't make sense, you made a mistake somewhere. Go back. You will repair the unit by doing this, and learn at the same time. Giving up does not teach you a darn thing except to give up. At least you can get diagrams these days and someone to help , for free. I wish I had the same level of assistance when I was starting as you do. BTW, I can fix almost anything these days. I learned good troubleshooting and repair techniques.
-Chris
Hi jacquesl,
Can you get a bipolar supply from the original transformer? I don't have one to check and I've never considered doing this before.
I don't have a problem with anyone upgrading this amp as a project. Good chassis to start with at low cost. They have a good transformer for the power. They were rated at 30W / channel were they not? You might get +-33V ish with the original transformer.
One thing I have noticed over the years. TV guys and audio guys are two different technicians. They don't seem to do well fixing the "other" stuff. TV guys think they can fix anything. Actually, they are convinced of this. Be careful who you get to work on your stuff. (TV guys, audio guys aren't good with TV's either, flamethrowers down).
-Chris
Can you get a bipolar supply from the original transformer? I don't have one to check and I've never considered doing this before.
I don't have a problem with anyone upgrading this amp as a project. Good chassis to start with at low cost. They have a good transformer for the power. They were rated at 30W / channel were they not? You might get +-33V ish with the original transformer.
One thing I have noticed over the years. TV guys and audio guys are two different technicians. They don't seem to do well fixing the "other" stuff. TV guys think they can fix anything. Actually, they are convinced of this. Be careful who you get to work on your stuff. (TV guys, audio guys aren't good with TV's either, flamethrowers down).
-Chris
Yeah, I've almost finished, both that amp and my school project (ECL82 tube radio... with the big loop antenna! It's so funny to see...)
When I'll come back to Paris I will surely report up... and will start to do my new projects:
- restoration/reuse of an old transistor stereo PA for gutar use;
- some guitar stompboxes;
- I'm also putting toghether my first real Hi-Fi, I'm gathering parts
(for now it is a Technics record player, Technics tape deck, Nad 3020 amp and AR speakers... All for Free! Gonna get soon a cheap DVD player to use for CDs... well that's no good but I'm poor and I like mp3 discs...)
- and last but not least the restoration (I hope) of an old Perser stereo hi-fi tube amp. Beautiful 4xEL84 2x10W...)
Thank you all for the help you gave me!
I will report...
When I'll come back to Paris I will surely report up... and will start to do my new projects:
- restoration/reuse of an old transistor stereo PA for gutar use;
- some guitar stompboxes;
- I'm also putting toghether my first real Hi-Fi, I'm gathering parts
(for now it is a Technics record player, Technics tape deck, Nad 3020 amp and AR speakers... All for Free! Gonna get soon a cheap DVD player to use for CDs... well that's no good but I'm poor and I like mp3 discs...)
- and last but not least the restoration (I hope) of an old Perser stereo hi-fi tube amp. Beautiful 4xEL84 2x10W...)
Thank you all for the help you gave me!
I will report...
Hi jacquesl,
The original 1060 has a single supply of about +70VDC. The amplifier circuits you are looking at require a plus and minus supply. Normally then, the supply would be stated as +-35 VDC (as an example). If the transformer on the 1060 has a center tap, you are good. If not things get a little more complicated.
-Chris
The original 1060 has a single supply of about +70VDC. The amplifier circuits you are looking at require a plus and minus supply. Normally then, the supply would be stated as +-35 VDC (as an example). If the transformer on the 1060 has a center tap, you are good. If not things get a little more complicated.
-Chris
Hi anatech
the tappings from this mareantz 1060 amp has alot of tappings
All outputs wires i'm talkin obout.
if you unsrew the amp, the under side you will see wat i'm talkin about.
the red and white are 54 AC before it goes in the briged that black thing mounted at the cassing i mean the ac to dc converter i cant spell that word, and then it goes to the power amp but it's not a center tap so i cant use it
and the 2 yellows and one black are a center tap +- 40 or more black are 0 volt and 2 two yellows are like -40 and +40 AC
like 40 + 40 = 80 or even more I forgot the voltages.
and the 2 greens are problaly 12v to power the front light
the only probleme i fink i'm going to have is i dont know how many ampere the transformer may give me because that tappins are just used to power the volume, bass, treble midrance and all that settings in the front you see.
i'm not going to use the red and white wires becauas these days power amps only works on centertap power supplys i fink.
I sended my ETI-480 100W amp modules in for repair at a tv repairing place, becuase I dont know a f.u.c.k why that thing dont wanna work
i must say this amp has weard output tappings.
the tappings from this mareantz 1060 amp has alot of tappings
All outputs wires i'm talkin obout.
if you unsrew the amp, the under side you will see wat i'm talkin about.
the red and white are 54 AC before it goes in the briged that black thing mounted at the cassing i mean the ac to dc converter i cant spell that word, and then it goes to the power amp but it's not a center tap so i cant use it
and the 2 yellows and one black are a center tap +- 40 or more black are 0 volt and 2 two yellows are like -40 and +40 AC
like 40 + 40 = 80 or even more I forgot the voltages.
and the 2 greens are problaly 12v to power the front light
the only probleme i fink i'm going to have is i dont know how many ampere the transformer may give me because that tappins are just used to power the volume, bass, treble midrance and all that settings in the front you see.
i'm not going to use the red and white wires becauas these days power amps only works on centertap power supplys i fink.
I sended my ETI-480 100W amp modules in for repair at a tv repairing place, becuase I dont know a f.u.c.k why that thing dont wanna work
i must say this amp has weard output tappings.
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