A lead on a Obbligato cap broke off. The cap has a lot more life and I'd like to replace the lead. The stub of the lead is about .5mm proud of the end cap so I'm thinking of putting a drop of solder on the stub and then tining the end of a new lead. Then I will heat the end of the lead and push it into the drop of solder on the stub. Has anyone done this type of repair? All thoughts/ideas will be appreciated.
Yes, you can do this. Clean the stub and prepare your iron.
Consider using flexible wire so that the stub doesn't have pressure put on it in the future.
Consider using flexible wire so that the stub doesn't have pressure put on it in the future.
I would try to dig out the material surrounding the stub, I bet there are at least a couple of millimeters of potting before you get down to the electrode. Dig, scratch, drill, melt, dremel...
After soldering a new wire (flexible?) with more overlap, you can again add some potting, polypropylene or epoxy, maybe even hot glue.
After soldering a new wire (flexible?) with more overlap, you can again add some potting, polypropylene or epoxy, maybe even hot glue.
I would just buy a real capacitor, same value, and replace it.
The fairydust was concentrated on the missing leg and now you lost it.
Once a capacitor has a leg broken at the root end, it has instantly become junk, only way to deal with it is dispose it in nearest junkbin.
The fairydust was concentrated on the missing leg and now you lost it.
Once a capacitor has a leg broken at the root end, it has instantly become junk, only way to deal with it is dispose it in nearest junkbin.
It can break at the joint.
PITA to repair.
Just replace it, can't be expensive or rare.
How did it break?
Corroded? Then it is useless anyway.
And heat from soldering can damage the insulation layers that form the capacitor.
PITA to repair.
Just replace it, can't be expensive or rare.
How did it break?
Corroded? Then it is useless anyway.
And heat from soldering can damage the insulation layers that form the capacitor.
Buy a new one...
Oh I see you bought a Obbligato... Audiophoolery perhaps? I don't know but:
Poo, and then wipe your butt with $$$, then buy a 50 cent cap that performs better (X2 Carli? and it wouldn't have failed?) and call it a day? You'll have a working amp and a wiped butt... And cash in your pocket!
http://www.carli.com.cn/q_product/20200316217_en.html
I could be wrong... Please don't kill me LOL
Oh I see you bought a Obbligato... Audiophoolery perhaps? I don't know but:
Poo, and then wipe your butt with $$$, then buy a 50 cent cap that performs better (X2 Carli? and it wouldn't have failed?) and call it a day? You'll have a working amp and a wiped butt... And cash in your pocket!
http://www.carli.com.cn/q_product/20200316217_en.html
I could be wrong... Please don't kill me LOL
Any high quality Japanese cap will do, even our Keltron (licensee of Sprague) are good.
But some people go for branded cigars, which are still tobacco...harvested from a field, like all the others..
But some people go for branded cigars, which are still tobacco...harvested from a field, like all the others..
I've found there are high quality Chinese parts for less. There are also lots of garbage Chinese parts. Buyer beware?
Alcohol is maybe different... I can get garbage aged for 1 year (but not from a liquor store) or I can pay more for that 15 year single malt... Sometimes you really do get what you pay for. At the end of the day though? 40% is 40%...
Alcohol is maybe different... I can get garbage aged for 1 year (but not from a liquor store) or I can pay more for that 15 year single malt... Sometimes you really do get what you pay for. At the end of the day though? 40% is 40%...
I watched a video the other day of a guy repairing a silicone chip. One of the legs had snapped off tight to the body, so he had ground the corner off with a miniature grinder to reveal something to solder to.
I did wonder if I could use the same trick to repair one of my polyprop caps, so searched ebay and saved this in my watch list - Electric engraver pen
After, you could cover the join in epoxy resin.
I did wonder if I could use the same trick to repair one of my polyprop caps, so searched ebay and saved this in my watch list - Electric engraver pen
After, you could cover the join in epoxy resin.
yes, the new lead must be tinned. build a little loop at the end of the lead, fit it onto the stump and solder it..........
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/super-caps.htm
You are right but why don't perform a fast solder and make some measurements before and after the process ?
I will use them if the parameters have't deriverd.
You are right but why don't perform a fast solder and make some measurements before and after the process ?
I will use them if the parameters have't deriverd.
I have had this happen. Remove a mm of potting with Dremel to give more purchase. Quickly solder a flexible wire to the stub. Quickly because the heat this close can melt the film. Wrap some tape around the body to make a dam. Pour epoxy into the dam to extend the potting to provide strain relief. It’s worth doing on caps 10uF or larger. I don’t like to throw away an otherwise perfectly good cap, especially ones made with unicorn tears. 🙂
I'm want to say that you should give yourself a chance to a success at repairing your expensive capacitor, it cost nothing.
Here are repair details. An exacto knife was used to remove end sealant around the stub to make it clean about 1mm proud of the end cap. End cap/stub was cleaned with rubbing alcohol. A small mount of flux was applied to the stub and it was heated with the soldering iron to burn off flux. This left a small puddle of melted expoxy around the stub. A cue tip was used to soak up the residue. The flux/heating cycle was repeated to ensure no expoxy was adhered to the stub. Then flux was applied to the stub. The new lead wire was cleaned with flux and tinned. Then using a helping hand to hold the lead wire against the stub, the joint was soldered such that there was a small blob of solder encapsulating the stub and the end of the new lead wire.
When I started soldering I tried the low cost irons and was never pleased. I read about Metcal PS-900, bought one and it is a great tool.
When I started soldering I tried the low cost irons and was never pleased. I read about Metcal PS-900, bought one and it is a great tool.
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