Hello, at first I want to say that I am very very new to music equipment!
Yesterday my Logitech Z2300 satellites blown and I am thinking of replacing them (subwoofer stays). So I have 2 questions:
1. What satellites do you recommend for Logitech Z2300 subwoofer (price range 50-80$)?
2. Does subwoofer have an amplifier inside or I need a new one?
I tried to surf and found these, http://www.amazon.com/Sony-SS-B1000-8-Inch-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B000OG88KY. Are they gonna suit?
3. A new good amplifier would increase my sound quality or power?
Thanks for your answers!
Yesterday my Logitech Z2300 satellites blown and I am thinking of replacing them (subwoofer stays). So I have 2 questions:
1. What satellites do you recommend for Logitech Z2300 subwoofer (price range 50-80$)?
2. Does subwoofer have an amplifier inside or I need a new one?
I tried to surf and found these, http://www.amazon.com/Sony-SS-B1000-8-Inch-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B000OG88KY. Are they gonna suit?
3. A new good amplifier would increase my sound quality or power?
Thanks for your answers!
1 - most bookshelf speakers will do - I wouldn't look at more than a 4" midbass, as you have a sub for bass.
2 - yes, the subwoofer has an internal amp for the satellites.
3 - A new amp may well increase maximum volume available, but it would get messy as you'd have to re-adjust the volume of the sub every time you changed the volume of the bookshelf speakers.
2 - yes, the subwoofer has an internal amp for the satellites.
3 - A new amp may well increase maximum volume available, but it would get messy as you'd have to re-adjust the volume of the sub every time you changed the volume of the bookshelf speakers.
Thanks for your reply!
So I dont really need a new amp. But I cant decide what speakers to buy then. Logitech z2300 sub has only RCA outputs so I would change cables to most of the speakers. Any advice what to buy? Sub is only 120 watts power.
You say only. I run my sub on 50W, and I can get furnature visibly vibrating. The sub also gives 40W per channel to the satellites. Dependant on where you are, I'd try (as I said before) something with a smallish woofer, maybe 4". You won't need anything more than this as they will be crossed over.
If you got some RCA plugs, then soldered speaker wire to the connections, you'll be able to connect anything you want, which is a nice prospect.
If you got some RCA plugs, then soldered speaker wire to the connections, you'll be able to connect anything you want, which is a nice prospect.
I don't really care about where I am 😀 I can listen music to the max sound. Also, what is crossover? And how to know is ur sub giving W per channel?
The specifications for power are on the ligitech website.
A crossover is a filter to stop low frequencies going to the tweeter (and cooking it) and high frequencies to the subwoofer (which would muddy them)
In the Z2300, the crossover would be around 120Hz. This would be where the amplifier begins to stop sending signals to the satellites, and starts sending signals to the subwoofer instead.
A crossover is a filter to stop low frequencies going to the tweeter (and cooking it) and high frequencies to the subwoofer (which would muddy them)
In the Z2300, the crossover would be around 120Hz. This would be where the amplifier begins to stop sending signals to the satellites, and starts sending signals to the subwoofer instead.
okey I am lost a bit 😀 what RMS should be on the speakers? If I buy speakers with same rms as sub has it will limit the sound loudness?
I wouldn't worry about it too much. Typical bookshelf speakers take 50wRMS (would mean 100W peak, without damage) and they'll be fine.
The sub is --meant-- to give 80w per satellite, and 120w to the woofer, but these ratings are well into distortion, to a point where it becomes unlistenable, so the ratings mean little.
You'd be surprised at how little power it takes to get a decent amount of sound, then how much power it takes to get a little more.
The sub is --meant-- to give 80w per satellite, and 120w to the woofer, but these ratings are well into distortion, to a point where it becomes unlistenable, so the ratings mean little.
You'd be surprised at how little power it takes to get a decent amount of sound, then how much power it takes to get a little more.
Hey again
Are you sure sub gives 80W/channel? I Googled it and found that it gives only 40W. Z2300 speakers were 40W and they were unlistenable at ~60% volume. What rms speakers must have to listen on ~80-90% volume? Or this thing depends on the speakers quality?
6 ohm is fine for most amplifiers... I don't know in your particular case. But I know that normally speakers rated 8 ohm are actually much lower impedance in some portions of the spectrum. Perhaps the SF3010's 6 ohm rating is closer to reality...I don't know
It's an average, rounded to the nearst 2 ohms. Generally, as frequency rises, so does impedance. The dips average out that rise to give a steady figure.
I'd say look for something smallish, 8ohm impedance (6 is fine), that will take 50W happily.
Don't overspend, or you'll be hearing the flaws in the amplifier.
I'd say look for something smallish, 8ohm impedance (6 is fine), that will take 50W happily.
Don't overspend, or you'll be hearing the flaws in the amplifier.
I still can't decide what speakers to buy. If there is a sub, what frequencies would be at the best quality - low, mid or high?
Hi Artazzzzzzz....zzzz...zz! Did you take a look at what Ciare offers in the HT field ?Nice little speakers with nice little boxes...already in kit ,if you can't manage to cut wood.
Next step would be to take a look to the Hifi line ,you could start from the littlest fullrangers of the same brand...probably there's a shop in the vicinity who holds them.
Next step would be to take a look to the Hifi line ,you could start from the littlest fullrangers of the same brand...probably there's a shop in the vicinity who holds them.
hmm, I would prefer full range speakers and what is HT? 😛
also 1 more question, what's the difference between bass and mid-bass?
also 1 more question, what's the difference between bass and mid-bass?
Home Theater ...I think they're just industrial production standards ,where a little of distortion or nonlinearity it might be allowed ,according to lower prices than hi-fi lines,where one would expect perfect speaker behaviour.
For the second question ,just divide the entire frequency spectrum (audible) in some segments and name them :sub-bass (reproduced by the sub-woofer),bass,from 100 to 600 Hz...about...then mid-bass,midrange (the frequency of human voice),which extends to 3000Hz ,trebles ,super-trebles ,ultrasonic frequencies ,alpha ,beta ,gamma rays ,supernovas ,explosions ....... : ))
For the second question ,just divide the entire frequency spectrum (audible) in some segments and name them :sub-bass (reproduced by the sub-woofer),bass,from 100 to 600 Hz...about...then mid-bass,midrange (the frequency of human voice),which extends to 3000Hz ,trebles ,super-trebles ,ultrasonic frequencies ,alpha ,beta ,gamma rays ,supernovas ,explosions ....... : ))
that's very useful info 😛. People say that full ranges don't need subwoofer, but subwoofer could stack with full ranges? Or I should look for midranges? I need speakers for parties and for calm music listening (high quality prefered 😀). So they must have wide midrange and good RMS.