replacement

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#4
Hi manoli337, I tried following your link but it does not work for me.

Are the subwoofers sealed? or some other alignment? Do you have any model number and brand for the actual drivers? Trying to find another speaker with similar specifications to the blown ones will be your best bet.

A sealed cabinet will be most forgiving of changing drivers, but even then you may not get the bass you expect if the parameters are too different from the original driver.

Tony.
 
#6
Jay1111 said:
The outside diameter of the current woofer, and the diameter of the woofer's cutout would help. Also, if it is ported, the port diameter, and length will be needed.
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it is 2 ohms
the outside diameter is 1ft, 11" cutout
sealed enclosure i think(leather outside box, mineral wool insulation inside)
-there is like a net at the top so maybe ported
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the deepest we can go for the sub is max 9-10"

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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


previous woofer-
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system for tweeters kit maybe ...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
#7
Are those really Subwoofers, OR are those simply low-bass drivers.

True Subwoofers cover a VERY narrow band of frequencies. Likely you have low-bass drivers or just plain woofers, which are still narrow but cover a wire range of frequencies.

Also, does this lower section with the driver that needs replacing have any openings or port tubes in it?

Any idea how much money you are willing to spend replacing the drivers?

Steve/bluewizard
 
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#8
BlueWizard said:
Are those really Subwoofers, OR are those simply low-bass drivers.

True Subwoofers cover a VERY narrow band of frequencies. Likely you have low-bass drivers or just plain woofers, which will still narrow do over a wire range of frequencies.

Also, does this lower section with the driver that needs replacing have on openings or port tubes in it?

Any idea how much money you are willing to spend replacing the drivers?

Steve/bluewizard
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the previous speakers were just woofers but i would like to put subwoofer ... is it possible.. and i dont very understand you second question.. 🙁
 
#10
also, can you help me finding 2 subs for chest compression to do party at my home , under 500$ , i will run it with a behringer inuke 3000dsp 🙂 thx , (if sub its not possible,maybe dual 15" of pa woofers )

i have been looking for 2 dual behringer b2520 pro , is it enough powerful and chest compression ? i will put it in my chamber ...
 
#11
1.) How much money do you have to spend?

2.) Does the existing cabinet have any ports or tube or slot openings?

3.) Confirm that you need 12 inch drivers. (~300mm)

Here is a standard 12" woofer -

Dayton Audio DC300-8 12" Classic Woofer 295-320

Its rated low frequency response is a very good 25hz. The rated high end is about 2,500hz. However, if we look at this specification sheet -

http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/295-320s.pdf

It is really only functional up to about 1,000 hz, and it would need a notch filter to tame the peak at 2,000hz.

Here is a similar priced Subwoofer. Its rated frequency response is 25hz to 125hz. That is a very narrow range of frequencies, and probably too narrow to be used in your system.

Also notice the Dayton woofer is 8 ohms. The DUAL-brand Subwoofer is 4 ohms. We would need to determine what you have now, and what the current crossover frequency is.

I suspect your system is either a Low-Bass, Mid-Bass, Mid-Range, Tweeter, or it is a Woofer Mid-Range, Tweeter, Super-Tweeter.

I'm guessing a low-bass driver crosses over in the 300hz to 800hz range. Though I can't be sure.

For the crossover to continue to work, the new speaker must be the same rated impedance as the old speaker, otherwise, you will have to rebuild the crossover networks

The same is true of Car Audio Subwoofer, most are 4 ohms or 2 ohms, very few to virtually none are 8 ohms.

Here is a Car Subwoofer of similar price -

Pyle PL1290BL 12" Blue Label DVC Subwoofer 292-137

Frequency response is not given, but I think the best you can hope for is 20hz to 250hz, and I suspect 250hz is too low for your application.

I think, assuming you don't have a lot of money to spend, and assuming you need 8 ohm speakers, the Dayton 12" would work but, it would probably need some additional components to the crossover to tame that peak at 2,000 hz. That's not a big deal. I'm sure there are people here who could give you exactly what you need.

Right now there are too many unknown aspects of your current speaker system for anyone to advise you effectively.

We would need to bare minimum determine the impedance of the existing driver, and to determine the current crossover frequency that is being used.

Steve/bluewizard
 
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#13
manoli337 said:
is my behringer inuke 3000dsp amp great to run this and will this sound great ?

heres the speaker that i want to run with : AB-36C CERWIN VEGA FOLDED HORN SERIES SPEAKERS SUBWOOFERS
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It should work if you're running one sub/speaker and bridged amp.
At least for a party garage. Spec from forum members say real RMS spec from amp is lower than peak.
Realistically it's a 200w/ch/4 ohm amp. The Behringer ratings are vaguely quoted as 'peak'. They don't publish a continuous RMS figure.
Bill Fitzmaurice
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""Or get the amp it's copying, the Peavey ipr series, though it does cost a bit more.""
""The Inuke ratings are peak not RMS from what I understand.""

I don't know the driver (specs/model) on the Sub, for the correspondent W you will need at driver max. excursion, but it doesn't mean it won't work for garage duty vs. home Fi, besides the amp loud noise (fan) and early (20/30Hz vs. 10Hz) roll-off. 😀
 
#16
manoli337 said:
Thanks a lot , but for the price , is the subwoofer that i have shown you is enough powerful for the price ..? Will i feel the cheast compression ? Do you have more powerful subs to show me for same or cheaper price ? 🙂
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The CERWIN VEGA has a nice pro-sound line of speakers. I already found the chest compression in a dance floor. Did you mention anything about price? I don't know. It probably has to do with your weakest link, the amp.
 
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