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    Building, troubleshooting and testing of these amplifiers should only be
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    the safety precautions around high voltages.

Replace Bypass Cap?

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Newark in the US is a Farnell company -

BHC COMPONENTS|ALS30A102KF450|CAPACITOR, 1000UF 450V CAPACITOR | Newark.com

The UCCs may be good, but I don't know of anyone using them. The BHCs have a reputation - including Xoc1 in this thread!

Thanks but Newark is too expensive. They tack on a $20 "handling fee" and charge me tax and shipping which would push the purchase well over $100. Is Newark the only BHC rep in the US?

How do these Hitachi's look?

Edit: After researching them, it would appear that Hitachi's labled as FA are fake and sourced from China so nevermind....

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-pc-1000uF-450...ptZVintage_Electronics_R2?hash=item3a54f126d8
 
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BHC is a KEMET company, you may be able to get a disti near you:

KEMET Distributors: USA

Be very wary of electrolytics on ebay. you need fresh parts, and ebay sellers frequently pick up end-of-line , surplus, bankrupt stock etc. Stale elkos sound bad - maybe even worse than the ones you have installed now! some may have good stock, but you would be well advised to understand the date codes on these parts and get assurances that the parts are recent production.
 
BHC is a KEMET company, you may be able to get a disti near you:

KEMET Distributors: USA

Be very wary of electrolytics on ebay. you need fresh parts, and ebay sellers frequently pick up end-of-line , surplus, bankrupt stock etc. Stale elkos sound bad - maybe even worse than the ones you have installed now! some may have good stock, but you would be well advised to understand the date codes on these parts and get assurances that the parts are recent production.

Thanks!

I found these on Mouser:

Kemet Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Screw Terminal

Is there a performance difference between the 105mm high caps compared to 82mm? Are they faster? Lower ESR? I'll spend the extra $20 on the 500v version if it's worth it.
 
The 450v version seems to have lower ESR, and probably higher ripple current handling.

If the amp's B+ is up to 425V, I'd say use the 450v rated parts; if higher then the 500v type.

Rod, what about these CDE's? ESR is 109m-o's and ripple is 3.8 @120hz?

They're are more expensive, but if you think there might be a performance advantage compared to the BHC's, then I'll get them. Thanks.

DCMC122T450BJ2B Cornell Dubilier Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Screw Terminal
 
I see that the $20 handling fee for the BHC's would place them in the same price bracket as the CDE's.

Which cap spec is more relavent to good sonics, ESR or the ability to handle ripple?

I'm not sure that either measure is directly related to sound,, although high ESR or low ripple handling will signal an unsuitable part.

Large can electrolytics seem to suffer from mechanical resonances that degrade the sound.

Finding other folks that have used the sizes and types you have in mind is the only indicator that I know of.

The BHCs have a wide reputation,, and importantly were the manufacturer used for Dennis Moorcroft's 4-terminal elkos,, and the slit-foil audio supply caps. I suspect that this kind of pedigree is worth the most in informing your choice.

Whichever you choose, be sure to break them in and let us know your opinions of sound.
 
I know of nothing against paralleled caps, so long as the ripple rating of one alone is almost enough for the whole power supply. This is because you can't guarantee pulse-current sharing, especially as the cap ages. The ESR and capacitance have poor tolerance and aging,, and each affects the sharing of current. At the 1000uF level,, the peak current is very large. Modelling the whole supply wiith Duncan PSU designer (PSUDii) is recommended where the upgrade deviates much from the original circuit. you can try different values of C and ESR to see how the peak current is shared.
 
I know of nothing against paralleled caps, so long as the ripple rating of one alone is almost enough for the whole power supply. This is because you can't guarantee pulse-current sharing, especially as the cap ages. The ESR and capacitance have poor tolerance and aging,, and each affects the sharing of current. At the 1000uF level,, the peak current is very large. Modelling the whole supply wiith Duncan PSU designer (PSUDii) is recommended where the upgrade deviates much from the original circuit. you can try different values of C and ESR to see how the peak current is shared.

Thanks rd. First off, I ordered the BSC 1000uf 450v caps from Mouser. i'll let you guys know what i think after break-in. How long is the break-in for filter caps?

Second, my cap question is in regards to a 20+ year old Kinergetics subwoofer amp with two 10,000uf 75v Phillips caps. I currently have a BCS 10,000uf 100v cap in my possession and decided to also purchase a 10,000uf 75v Cornell Dublier cap. I was wondering if the BSC and CDE caps would work OK together to replace the old caps in this solid state amp.
 
For break in, the 1st 10 hours is important, with most change happening then. But some parts are more stubborn, and the improvements happen for longer. But less than 100 hours for a cap, I would say.

If the woofer amp's caps are for + and - supplies, I'd try them without the speaker connected. Check the supplies are equal. Leave it on for an hour and check again. Check the speaker output doesn't have an offset. Leave it on for a morning, and if it still measures OK, I'd say it should be fit to audition.
 
I decided to nix the 2nd cap for the sub amp. I'll purchase a matched pair somewhere down the road. I figure one upgrade at at time.

I'll let you know about the caps for the tube amp after a week of burn in. Thanks again for your assistance and expertise.
 
If the amp's working OK, I'd replace the B+ caps, break them in & check the sound. The cathode caps will need replacing too, for certain, but always best to do one at a time in case there's anything you don't like.

If you want to be very careful, run the amp without tubes, and 100 Ohm resistors in series with the caps. Then you can watch the leakage current stabilise (~30min) before removing them.
 
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