Hi
I am currently restoring these speakers. Unfortunately, quite a bit of veneer has broken off underneath the drivers. What would be the best way to fix this in order to secure mounting without any leaks?
Planning to fill out the gaps with either wood filler or spray putty and sand as even as possible.
Then fastening the woofer ring with silicone and use gasket tape or some kind of caulk underneath the tweeter.
Other suggestions would be greatly appreciated. TIA! 🙂
I am currently restoring these speakers. Unfortunately, quite a bit of veneer has broken off underneath the drivers. What would be the best way to fix this in order to secure mounting without any leaks?
Planning to fill out the gaps with either wood filler or spray putty and sand as even as possible.
Then fastening the woofer ring with silicone and use gasket tape or some kind of caulk underneath the tweeter.
Other suggestions would be greatly appreciated. TIA! 🙂
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There are many ways to approach this, depending on whether it is needed for strength or looks and on your timeframe and skill level. Are you using the same drivers again or new ones. Are the existing screw holes usable or are you looking to strengthen them.
Im gonna repaint the chassis afterwards. Only objective here is to get a surface that is even enough to avoid any leaks between driver and cabinet.
Flush mounting might actually be the wrong word here.. Only trying to mount the drivers without any airleaks 🙂
Flush mounting might actually be the wrong word here.. Only trying to mount the drivers without any airleaks 🙂
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Ok. At the least you should be able to gasket the joint. If you do use putty, I'd suggest that it should be flexible enough that it won't crack and separate from the baffle.
Thinking about it some more, this would also be an opportunity for an additional baffle veneer sheet with constrained layer...
Thinking about it some more, this would also be an opportunity for an additional baffle veneer sheet with constrained layer...
Wouldnt you try to fix the current gaps with some kind of hard putty first, and then mount the drivers using gaskets afterwards?
Sure. Are you concerned that something flexible won't be up to the task? ..or is it just that you don't want the basket to warp if you tension it to an uneven surface, which is reasonable.
Both.. Also simply just trying to do it "right". Evening out first, and then something flexible in between to compensate for the fact that it might not end up being completely even after repairing and repainting 🙂
Short of replacing the baffle, or veneering it as suggested above which would give a solid flat surface. It would also be possible to sand the putty flat with care and technique. You could replace a cutout. A semi solid gasket could be used. Consider the way the putty reacts to moisture or temperature changes. A technique could be used that doesn't require much tightening of the woofer. You could fasten it from behind the baffle where it isn't damaged. The list goes on.
to my mind, the easiest way would be to glue/veneer a new front panel on, then trim and open holes to suit the drivers your using.
You could add wood or plywood at the back to reinforce the surface using wood glue or epoxy.
That might need the cabinet to be opened up for access.
Then rebuild as much veneer as possible with wood (EVA emulsion) glue.
You could use a roofing tar felt type of material to fill the gap, or a bead of soft silicon, use paper over it, so it does not stick.
Painting the surface is relatively easier, and I would check that the material of the cabinet is in fact in good condition, it appears that the layers have separated from each other, so the material holding the ply may itself be weakened bu many issues, including time and damp.
If you have any idea about what caused the damage, do a careful think over.
And are the drivers and cross overs in good condition?
If they are not, that will also take time and effort to fix, check the units on load to rule out damaged cones and coils, for example.
I mean connect them to a small amp outside the box, play sound, see if they are acceptable.
That might need the cabinet to be opened up for access.
Then rebuild as much veneer as possible with wood (EVA emulsion) glue.
You could use a roofing tar felt type of material to fill the gap, or a bead of soft silicon, use paper over it, so it does not stick.
Painting the surface is relatively easier, and I would check that the material of the cabinet is in fact in good condition, it appears that the layers have separated from each other, so the material holding the ply may itself be weakened bu many issues, including time and damp.
If you have any idea about what caused the damage, do a careful think over.
And are the drivers and cross overs in good condition?
If they are not, that will also take time and effort to fix, check the units on load to rule out damaged cones and coils, for example.
I mean connect them to a small amp outside the box, play sound, see if they are acceptable.
Almost all of the above suggestions will work. So will auto body filler or a paste of PVA glue mixed with saw dust. No need to complicate things here, it's only a speaker. Stresses are minimal.
If you plan to paint keep anything close to silicone out of the picture until you are ready to mount the drivers. Silicone disease can be frustrating.
If you plan to paint keep anything close to silicone out of the picture until you are ready to mount the drivers. Silicone disease can be frustrating.