Hakko is often recommended here.
You can find my thoughts on which soldering iron to choose here: https://neurochrome.com/pages/choosing-a-soldering-iron-for-electronics
Tom
I agree about carburettors, but early FI isn't great in hot countries at least. My K-Jetronic equipped BMW ran poorly on really hot days, but the later FI equipped cars we now have barely change the way they run in the heat (and the newest I have is not that recent, being from 2009). Of course, if you're not in a place where temps go over about 35C, it's not an issue!
BTW I knew the old K-Jet inside out so it wasn't the way it was set up.
BTW I knew the old K-Jet inside out so it wasn't the way it was set up.
Thanks for that link! I do believe that I was experiencing that very issue. Iron would get hot but barely hot enough. Will try the reset later today.
I can verify it is easy to goof up the stored settings when trying to adjust this thing. I've had to do the factory reset many times and I've never quite figured out how I broke it to begin with. The instructions it comes with are less useful than some of the YouTube videos you'll find.
K(ontinuierlich)-Jetronic is mechanical fuel injection, D-Jet is far superior being electric (what the "E" in the Type 3 model name: elektronische Kraftstoffeinspritzung, IIRC). Then about six years later, Porsche was the first to use L(uft)-Jetronic, and further developments were used by a plethora of manufacture's through the 1990s. L-Jet is kind of the two combined, uses airflow to meter fuel like K-Jet, though instead of mechanically changing fuel flow, does it indirectly via a sensor that is fed into the ECU. So, do agree K-Jet is not much better than carburetor, probably D-Jet abandoned because too ahead of its time and bean counters (ex. choice of capacitors).
To get back on topic, I bet it be far easier, with the only tool being a cross head screwdriver and a soldering iron, the D-Jet be just as reliable, if not more reliable, than modern FI. For example, can a modern ECUs handle repeated moisture ingression for many years and still operate correctly?
A modern ECU in a car that isn't crap will be potted in epoxy so moisture is never an issue.
IMHO, if you can't pressure wash the engine while it's running, it's poorly designed. 🙂
For what it's worth, I had the Hakko that the OP has. I gave it away because it was a piece of excrement.
I bought this instead.
5 years later it's still just a great system - uses the Hakko tips with the heater built in.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B075PDNTMK
IMHO, if you can't pressure wash the engine while it's running, it's poorly designed. 🙂
For what it's worth, I had the Hakko that the OP has. I gave it away because it was a piece of excrement.
I bought this instead.
5 years later it's still just a great system - uses the Hakko tips with the heater built in.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B075PDNTMK
Yeah, I know all that history; I was really into it at one stage and have a good Bosch FI manual that goes through each type in detail. And the best technical book ever, the Bosch Automotive Handbook, which I've read from cover to cover. 🙂
As I say, the main problem is that those early systems can't cope with heat; even early Motronic had issues on a 40C day (I had a Peugeot 405 Mi16 with Motronic 1.3 and once the ambient temp hit around 39C it'd start playing up when crawling in traffic). My current Peugeot with Marelli injection runs faultlessly, even yesterday when we had a 43C temperature.
Sorry, no more OT from me... 🙂
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