now that you have done that , you can replace those with better drivers and start all over again...just a diy joke ! 🙂
Rusbelio, a very nice repair! 😎
I expect you have ideas to push it further now, like cabinet wadding, more tweaks like resistors and higher order crossovers, but a very good start. I quite like cheapish drivers. They sound lively. 🙂

I expect you have ideas to push it further now, like cabinet wadding, more tweaks like resistors and higher order crossovers, but a very good start. I quite like cheapish drivers. They sound lively. 🙂
I wanted to add something about your rebuild, Rusbelio. You are pretty much in Acoustic Research AR-3A territory here. Only thing you need that is different is a little box enclosure for the cone midrange unit. 😀
A classic speaker if ever there was one. At one time AR sold 60% of the speakers bought in America. I liked their classic designs a LOT. Incredibly involving sound. 😎
Read up about it here:
Restoring the AR-3a | The Classic Speaker Pages
A classic speaker if ever there was one. At one time AR sold 60% of the speakers bought in America. I liked their classic designs a LOT. Incredibly involving sound. 😎
Read up about it here:
Restoring the AR-3a | The Classic Speaker Pages
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Thank you for comment 🙂
The reason why I decided to repair this speakers was to a nice memory that i had of them when my parents used to listen to music (Vinyl and Cassettes) using an Hi-Fi System named AMSTRAD (I dont know about this vintage systems). I was shocked listening it when i was little because they had similar sound as now.
The boxes where i replaced the 3 way system by this new three way system came from a local shop in my town (My father bought the two speakers 25-30 years ago aproximately but the 3 way system got broken caused by humidity of the place where they were stored).
I didnt think they would have very good sound 🙂 but this have one reason:
"You may have done that the speakers sound as good" Thanks for all 🙂
Thanks for this nice info sustem7 🙂
The reason why I decided to repair this speakers was to a nice memory that i had of them when my parents used to listen to music (Vinyl and Cassettes) using an Hi-Fi System named AMSTRAD (I dont know about this vintage systems). I was shocked listening it when i was little because they had similar sound as now.
The boxes where i replaced the 3 way system by this new three way system came from a local shop in my town (My father bought the two speakers 25-30 years ago aproximately but the 3 way system got broken caused by humidity of the place where they were stored).
I didnt think they would have very good sound 🙂 but this have one reason:
"You may have done that the speakers sound as good" Thanks for all 🙂
Thanks for this nice info sustem7 🙂
I'm in trouble
What do you prefer? bass reflex loudspeakers or sealed box loudspeakers?
I dont know if I'll be wrong, Will I get better bass if i change from sealed box, to bass reflex box?
Listening in front of the loudspeaker i dont listen a strong bass. Instead if i listen on the side of the loudspeaker, i listen a strong bass. Is this normal?
What do you prefer? bass reflex loudspeakers or sealed box loudspeakers?
I dont know if I'll be wrong, Will I get better bass if i change from sealed box, to bass reflex box?
Listening in front of the loudspeaker i dont listen a strong bass. Instead if i listen on the side of the loudspeaker, i listen a strong bass. Is this normal?
Hello Rusbelio,
I believe you are experiencing the effects of the room and it's impact on bass response. Bass response will vary greatly through different parts of a room regardless of whether the speakers are vented or sealed or some other alignment.
The woofer in your particular application, and in this box size, is very likely NOT well suited to a vented box. Venting the box would likely produce "more" bass through some of the bass ranges, however, would also likely introduce added distortion of various types. I don't suggest it.
Regards,
Eric
I believe you are experiencing the effects of the room and it's impact on bass response. Bass response will vary greatly through different parts of a room regardless of whether the speakers are vented or sealed or some other alignment.
The woofer in your particular application, and in this box size, is very likely NOT well suited to a vented box. Venting the box would likely produce "more" bass through some of the bass ranges, however, would also likely introduce added distortion of various types. I don't suggest it.
Regards,
Eric
Hello Rusbelio,
I believe you are experiencing the effects of the room and it's impact on bass response. Bass response will vary greatly through different parts of a room regardless of whether the speakers are vented or sealed or some other alignment.
The woofer in your particular application, and in this box size, is very likely NOT well suited to a vented box. Venting the box would likely produce "more" bass through some of the bass ranges, however, would also likely introduce added distortion of various types. I don't suggest it.
Regards,
Eric
It's OK
I will not change this type of loudspeakers 🙂
In differents places in the room, the bass is extremely good, i like it 😀
Thanks Eirc 😉
Could i calculate the power handling of my speakers? Each Loudspeaker mounting the three way system.
Specs of woofer, mid and tweeter are in first page:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/205627-repairing-3-way-speakers-looking-some-help.html
Thanks
Specs of woofer, mid and tweeter are in first page:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/205627-repairing-3-way-speakers-looking-some-help.html
Thanks
Hi , if the woofer says ' 100 W max' , that's the maximum power allowed .
I would divide it by 1/3 to get a more reasonable 30 W power rating !
100 W would then mean that it's the maximum peak allowed , maybe it can be handled
for a very little time , like seconds or so ..
I would divide it by 1/3 to get a more reasonable 30 W power rating !
100 W would then mean that it's the maximum peak allowed , maybe it can be handled
for a very little time , like seconds or so ..
Hi , if the woofer says ' 100 W max' , that's the maximum power allowed .
I would divide it by 1/3 to get a more reasonable 30 W power rating !
100 W would then mean that it's the maximum peak allowed , maybe it can be handled
for a very little time , like seconds or so ..
30W RMS each loudspaker?
30+30W between two loudspaekers 🙁
Don't let you put you down !! 🙂
Wattage in speakers is quite meaningless . It's just a gross estimation of the various parts
that compose a loudspeaker , in particular the power might be determined by the diameter of the wire in the voice coil , and the magnet surrounding it ; then , it can be added the heat dissipated by the voice coil , so it's a matter of design ,mechanical...and thermical .
Wattage in speakers is quite meaningless . It's just a gross estimation of the various parts
that compose a loudspeaker , in particular the power might be determined by the diameter of the wire in the voice coil , and the magnet surrounding it ; then , it can be added the heat dissipated by the voice coil , so it's a matter of design ,mechanical...and thermical .
even if your speaker is only 30wrms , speakers handle lots of power if signal is clean without distortion that is , i use a 150wrms amp with 100wrms 2 way speaker and they play fine even at high levels
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