If wire is aluminum, it requires a VERY aggressive flux, based on Hydrofluoric acid (it dissolves glass, go figure, needed because aluminum oxide is glass too), and unless perfectly removed, residue will corrode anything nearby.
Well it isn't quite fixed yet, it's drying ready for install!
These speakers are from 2001 ish, they have always been bone dry and kept indoors so prehaps it is a flux issue.
I'm positive that the winding wire is tinned copper and not aluminium.
These speakers are from 2001 ish, they have always been bone dry and kept indoors so prehaps it is a flux issue.
I'm positive that the winding wire is tinned copper and not aluminium.
Yeah, my original observation that the wire was aluminum was incorrect. It turned out to be badly corroded copper that had taken on an aluminum-like appearance. Good luck!
I've encountered this with a Sansui SP-1500. The lead broke off at the outer wall of the cone. Almost no metal visible. When I measured the lead, it became clear: It was too short for the excursions the woofer could make. My assumption is that Sansui had used leads from an earlier model with a shorter excursion. Anyway, I wound up being able to solder a short length of flexible stranded wire to the bit of exposed metal on the cone and then attached this to the original lead. I did not need to remove the dust cap. This was about 20 years ago and the SP-1500 are now rear speakers in my home theater. Which, by the way is a great use for them. Front SP-3500. Center SP-2500. Rear SP-1500. Then 4 big Klipsch subs. In many ways this is the best home theater sound I have heard despite all the Kabuki jokes. And this is the only problem I have had with any of these speakers despite having 29 drivers between them, all from the 60s and 70s.
Damn it, after read this thread i checked my old 8545s and one driver where dead too, same issue with the glue, i managed to pull the cone/surround and the spider off the basket and solder a new very thin cable from very near the voice coil all the way out to the terminal on the driver basket, looks very uggly but i works. I really did not think i would manage this so i did not pay any attention to the looks and did it all in a hasting, but i did pay attention to not get any rattle or noise, i used pva to put it all back together and all works and it sounds great and it measures like before
So thank you for this thread, witout it i had probably not even tried to save the driver
So thank you for this thread, witout it i had probably not even tried to save the driver