Sanding it leaves the grey aluminum oxide embedded in the glue. I would be looking for a sand paper that uses sand as the abrasive and is fine enough grit to work. Like 1000 grit and abrasive that is light wood colored. However I suspect such a sandpaper doesn't exist.
I am more inclined to look @ a chemical method now, oddly it actually looks very good as is, like a very non grainy wood. I just cant stain it.
Cool.
Srinath.
I am more inclined to look @ a chemical method now, oddly it actually looks very good as is, like a very non grainy wood. I just cant stain it.
Cool.
Srinath.
What are your plans for resurfacing these? That could inform the most efficient method of removing the adhesive.
I'd agree with Evan that sanding would be your best bet - just be prepared to go through a lot of paper. Most solvents will tend to leave some stain, or absorb into raw face veneer of plywood, which could interfere with some refinishing plans.
Start with about 80G, then at least 2 steps down to 220G if planning on staining or clear coating . If veneering or recovering with fabric, probably no finer than 120G required.
An air driven random orbit sander will give you the best control and least fatigue.
I'd agree with Evan that sanding would be your best bet - just be prepared to go through a lot of paper. Most solvents will tend to leave some stain, or absorb into raw face veneer of plywood, which could interfere with some refinishing plans.
Start with about 80G, then at least 2 steps down to 220G if planning on staining or clear coating . If veneering or recovering with fabric, probably no finer than 120G required.
An air driven random orbit sander will give you the best control and least fatigue.
Scraping gets the glue off in flakes. Pretty decent option, but it leaves the surface a little scratched up.
The final finish Ideally just clear coating. Its very light wood color as it is, or I may just leave it as is. It can be stained/coated when I make up my mind.
So I guess I am looking to have raw birch finish.
Thanks.
Srinath.
The final finish Ideally just clear coating. Its very light wood color as it is, or I may just leave it as is. It can be stained/coated when I make up my mind.
So I guess I am looking to have raw birch finish.
Thanks.
Srinath.
I would sand it with white coloured SiOx sandpaper (aka "no fill"). I wouldn't start with any coarser than 180 grit or you'll be sanding out scratch marks forever. 1000 grit will have almost no effect. You would rarely go finer than 400 grit when preparing wood for finishing. Make sure you use a sanding block and sand with the grain to avoid leaving visible scratches in the finish. Scratches that are invisible on the raw wood can stick out like a sore thumb after finishing.
Grain direction
That sand colored sand paper - I will go look for.
The direction of the grain depends on where in the speaker I am sanding, it seems to be all like U and V and Z and O shaped grains. I guess I go slow and see what it does. The thing looks like it will take stain as it sits though. I will try 1 non obvious corner and see that too.
Thanks.
Srinath.
That sand colored sand paper - I will go look for.
The direction of the grain depends on where in the speaker I am sanding, it seems to be all like U and V and Z and O shaped grains. I guess I go slow and see what it does. The thing looks like it will take stain as it sits though. I will try 1 non obvious corner and see that too.
Thanks.
Srinath.
1) avoid chemicals if wood surface will be visible afterwards,they will be soaked inside the pores by capillary action and irregularly stain the wood forever (or opu' l have to sand 1/8" deep just to kill these new stains)
2) if old glue is hard "sandable"' then just sand it out, periYou'll swear wood surface was raw/pure and then was polished.
3) go step by step from coarse to fine sandpaper grade, as said above not less than 400 ; after that you can buff with fine steel wool, this mechanical action tends to further close pores and make them invisible.
Read fine furniture and (acoustic) musical instrument pages for directions.
2) if old glue is hard "sandable"' then just sand it out, periYou'll swear wood surface was raw/pure and then was polished.
3) go step by step from coarse to fine sandpaper grade, as said above not less than 400 ; after that you can buff with fine steel wool, this mechanical action tends to further close pores and make them invisible.
Read fine furniture and (acoustic) musical instrument pages for directions.
It can't leave aluminium oxide in the glue if you sand the glue off completely
It depends how much the glue has seeped into the grain - you will probably have to remove at least some wood thickness to get rid of the glue completely. You will have to be very careful to avoid burning through an entire layer, though if you do you can always apply a wooden veneer.
A scraper sounds like a good option as it won't build up heat like sanding does so the adhesive should remain hard and easy to remove. Follow it up with sanding when the bulk of the glue is removed.
I wouldn't recommend using a chemical stripper, it might cause the glue to soften and further penetrate into the wood.
If you use enough solvent you'll get almost all the residue removed -- it's expensive and hazardous so wear a mask specified for the solvent you're using. Klean-Strip Adhesive Remover works on vinyl adhesive, its a combination of methylene chloride, methanol (wood alcohol) and mineral spirits. You can use a wood-bleach afterward.
But to get real, vinyl is more often used as a laminate over particle board or MDF so it may not be worth salvaging the substrate. It certainly wouldn't be economic to apply vinyl laminate over baltic birch plywood.
Baltic birch for sure
LOL, I swore to myself it was some fake BS crap. But there is 10 drilled 3/8" holes to hang up this speaker in any direction you like and those are all showing Baltic plywood. Or some other high end smooth plywood.
The speaker was also sold as regular wood finish, not just grey vinyl finish.
I have the feeling, they made 1 cab and slapped the vinyl on it for black.
I'll try and see if it will stain as is.
I may just vinyl it in black wood finish just to give me less work to do over the next few weeks.
Cool.
Srinath.
LOL, I swore to myself it was some fake BS crap. But there is 10 drilled 3/8" holes to hang up this speaker in any direction you like and those are all showing Baltic plywood. Or some other high end smooth plywood.
The speaker was also sold as regular wood finish, not just grey vinyl finish.
I have the feeling, they made 1 cab and slapped the vinyl on it for black.
I'll try and see if it will stain as is.
I may just vinyl it in black wood finish just to give me less work to do over the next few weeks.
Cool.
Srinath.
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