I am modifying an existing circuit board by adding an additional small PCB (2"x1"). The area I want to attach it in has a copper ground pour, and I want to remove just a small bit of the copper in order to install small eyelets for the PCB attachments and wire to the appropriate points (+V, -V, Gnd, in, out).
How can I easily and neatly remove the copper? Is there some sort of etchant that I could apply (using masking to restrict the area) to do this? I have considered just using an exacto knife and maybe some heat, but this seems less than ideal.
Any ideas?
How can I easily and neatly remove the copper? Is there some sort of etchant that I could apply (using masking to restrict the area) to do this? I have considered just using an exacto knife and maybe some heat, but this seems less than ideal.
Any ideas?
Why not just use some double sticky-backed foam tape to stick the small PCB to the original, and then just wire it up?
Mike
Mike
Thanks, that's an option. I guess I was looking for something a little more elegant and professional looking, but.......???
For what it's worth, I was a wiring technician at a company that made test jigs for major manufacturers before I retired, and it wasn't unusual to get one back from the customer seeking revisions or upgrades. We frequently resorted to small kludge board mods using that very technique and never got any complaints. If it's done right, it doesn't look bad at all.
Mike
Mike
Dremel tool with an end mill bit, then either a very steady hand or a drill press. Or a carbide bit of whatever type is used for milling PCBs.
Because in 10 to 20 years it will be a sticky mess, or will have become fragile and have unstuck...
Plastic stand-offs and wire it up would be my first choice. Chemical wise, you could try ferric chloride as used for making DIY PCB's, though it might not do anything with tin coated copper.
Well, it just so happens that I have a placard stuck to the wall above my bench that got put there in the late 80's and I just checked out of curiosity, your claims failed; not sticky, not dried out, and still firmly stuck.
Mike
That's an interesting option; thanks for the reply. How exactly would I restrict the area of etching? Would painter's masking tape work? I only need an area of about 3.5 x 16 mm.
Dremel and very steady hand with a dentist type ball file or mill tip or:
1) cut through copper foil reaching epoxy below with an shatp knife to separate area to be pulled out from remaining copper.
2) scratch solder mask away so tin can stick to bare copper
3) heat a piece of that copper near one edge or corner with molten solder, it will soften adhesion (that´s why it´s easy to pull pads and tracks with careless soldering) , lift one edge or corner with knife tip.
4) once you lifted it, grab it with long nose pliers and pull, while melting the solder puddle.
Foil will be released under heat, move puddle around until foil is fully pulled out.
That´s why we expose copper first, heat transmission through molten solder is excellent and at the same time, well more localized than under a flame or hot air jet.
5) clean area with alcohol and toothbrush, then slightly polish with steel wool.
1) cut through copper foil reaching epoxy below with an shatp knife to separate area to be pulled out from remaining copper.
2) scratch solder mask away so tin can stick to bare copper
3) heat a piece of that copper near one edge or corner with molten solder, it will soften adhesion (that´s why it´s easy to pull pads and tracks with careless soldering) , lift one edge or corner with knife tip.
4) once you lifted it, grab it with long nose pliers and pull, while melting the solder puddle.
Foil will be released under heat, move puddle around until foil is fully pulled out.
That´s why we expose copper first, heat transmission through molten solder is excellent and at the same time, well more localized than under a flame or hot air jet.
5) clean area with alcohol and toothbrush, then slightly polish with steel wool.
2D Milling machines are extremely cheap / 200USD or less, then make that Computer layout sheet and then just mill that part of the PCB, It will look like it was there from start.
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