I'm getting ready to build some boxes from 3/4 MDF. Before I start drilling and gluing, I wonder if someone can recommend a good way to make the backs removeable so I can experiment easily. Specifically, if the back is removeable, how do I make it seal properly?
I don't think an exact seal is really necessary. I usually inset the back panel, with 1" frame, and use a bunch of screws. (1 per 4") This produces a pretty good seal. You can use weather stripping to improve it further.
You can then use the screws to clamp when you glue up if you decide to do so.
You can then use the screws to clamp when you glue up if you decide to do so.
I bought some polychloroprene sealing strip recommended here http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=333146#post333146 last week. Works a treat I had the same problem (though mine was the front baffle of a test box.
for a pic of application click here http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=563594#post563594
before applying the selaing strip there were some quite large spikes in the impedance curves, which disapeared after which indicates to me it fixed the leaks 🙂 (not the peak shown in the thread above, that was due to a brace).
If you can find something like it, I think it will work well, it is nice and thin only about 2mm thick.
Tony.
for a pic of application click here http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=563594#post563594
before applying the selaing strip there were some quite large spikes in the impedance curves, which disapeared after which indicates to me it fixed the leaks 🙂 (not the peak shown in the thread above, that was due to a brace).
If you can find something like it, I think it will work well, it is nice and thin only about 2mm thick.
Tony.
Have you thought "outside the box" ;-)
What do you specifically require access to inside the cabinet that you cannot access through the driver cutouts? If you are thinking crossover components, have you thought about mounting them external to the sealed enclosure? For ease of construction and aesthetics you may not want external crossover boxes, but what about having a recessed base, mounting the components under the speaker, yet still out of sight, for example. Then if you wanted to experiment with damping etc you will be able to use the driver cutouts.
Just a thought and hope it might be of some help,
Chris
What do you specifically require access to inside the cabinet that you cannot access through the driver cutouts? If you are thinking crossover components, have you thought about mounting them external to the sealed enclosure? For ease of construction and aesthetics you may not want external crossover boxes, but what about having a recessed base, mounting the components under the speaker, yet still out of sight, for example. Then if you wanted to experiment with damping etc you will be able to use the driver cutouts.
Just a thought and hope it might be of some help,
Chris
I have run impedance sweeps on boxes of the nature I posted above, and did not see any indication of a leak even when I didn't use any gasketing.
I would still recommend it for good measure, just thought that fact might be of interest.
I would still recommend it for good measure, just thought that fact might be of interest.
Outside the box
I was actually thinking of XO outside the box. My driver is coaxial, with two sets of terminals. I could just bring them both to binding posts outside the box.
I also wanted to experiment with damping, and reflecting surfaces inside the box, hence the desire to maintain easy access to the interior.
The box is ported, not sealed. Perhaps this makes sealing the edges less important?
I was actually thinking of XO outside the box. My driver is coaxial, with two sets of terminals. I could just bring them both to binding posts outside the box.
I also wanted to experiment with damping, and reflecting surfaces inside the box, hence the desire to maintain easy access to the interior.
The box is ported, not sealed. Perhaps this makes sealing the edges less important?
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