Since you've found that they are not the same part number, what are the part numbers that you have on both sides in the groups you circled. Don't assume that they're the same on both sides.
If the rectifiers have common anodes or common cathodes, the outer legs will be shorted together through the transformer windings. The center legs should not be shorted to the outer legs.
If the rectifiers have common anodes or common cathodes, the outer legs will be shorted together through the transformer windings. The center legs should not be shorted to the outer legs.
marcello7x said:
Connect power gnd and remote on the amplifier.
This will start the power supply section only.
gives an easy way of testing if the fault is power supply / rectifier section / amp section.
And no it wont damage anything.
by removing those diodes your effectivly isolating the ps and amp sections.
if it still blows fuses or whatever then you know for fact that theres a fault in the psupply.
Dont forget though that there could still be other faults further along...
ok the other rectifiers also are different, they are labled
F15U20DN
235
Well im going to throw the amp back together and check and see if the solder shorting the romote and ground together was the only problem.
F15U20DN
235
Well im going to throw the amp back together and check and see if the solder shorting the romote and ground together was the only problem.
Ok well i did some research and got all the data sheets to the mosfets, rectifiers and such. But i did remove the solder that connected the remote to the ground.
Before i took components off to test them i decided to test the amp with the solder removed. Well the amp worked!!!
My only problem left is once the car is off the led's on the amp stay on. What could cause this.
Before i took components off to test them i decided to test the amp with the solder removed. Well the amp worked!!!
My only problem left is once the car is off the led's on the amp stay on. What could cause this.
That's bad, you will kill your battery very quickly. Probably a transistor, which enables/disables SMPS (based on DBL494) is shorted. Or your switch wire always hot.
Hehe, I have exactly same amp (with overheating power supply FET's), but desire to fix it completely abandoned me 🙂 May be when I'll have some time to kill. It actually sounds VERY clean, which was a great surprise to me.
Hehe, I have exactly same amp (with overheating power supply FET's), but desire to fix it completely abandoned me 🙂 May be when I'll have some time to kill. It actually sounds VERY clean, which was a great surprise to me.
So your led's stay on all the time as well?
I actually bought the amp because of the "big" numbers it put out. I saw that it was rated at 2400 watts rms and was like wow.
I've been using it to power 2 aw1206t's. supposedly handling 2200 rms. I don't know what real numbers are going on but the only think that i've been told is louder are 2 old 12 jl w6's. but i haven 't been around alot of loud systems so idk how great it compares.
I plan on going with a 2 12w7's with 2 1000.1 amps in my future car i plan on buying this coming summer.
Also do you guys think its worth it to buy a broken amp and work on it, yea i don't know much, but i learn best buy diving in over my head and working my way up.
I actually bought the amp because of the "big" numbers it put out. I saw that it was rated at 2400 watts rms and was like wow.
I've been using it to power 2 aw1206t's. supposedly handling 2200 rms. I don't know what real numbers are going on but the only think that i've been told is louder are 2 old 12 jl w6's. but i haven 't been around alot of loud systems so idk how great it compares.
I plan on going with a 2 12w7's with 2 1000.1 amps in my future car i plan on buying this coming summer.
Also do you guys think its worth it to buy a broken amp and work on it, yea i don't know much, but i learn best buy diving in over my head and working my way up.
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